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Old 11-19-2011, 12:46 PM   #21316
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Don't forget that most of oval has gone completely 1S!
No oval in Europe and not sure if it is raced in Asia or Australia, so still a smallish market I guess.

And yes to inspegadgt, 1/12th is a long running category that has been going up and down over many years (my first car was 1981) , I would love to be able to race 1/12 again, but no club near me.
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Old 11-19-2011, 05:32 PM   #21317
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Don't forget that most of oval has gone completely 1S!
WGT is 1S as well.
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:12 PM   #21318
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So has tekin came out with any new stuff or just profile info for the 4 pole motors?
I know it only goin for SC 1/8th so far but I see it comin to 1/10 also
Any info guys?
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:33 PM   #21319
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no new software yet
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:38 AM   #21320
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Depends in what country you are running it
We have 2 classes.
1 with 1S 10.5/13.5(not sure) and 1 with 2S and 17.5 motors.
They also run with the "big" boys 235MM and then it is 2S 10.5.
Last class isn't slower then the 235MM and on a tech track they have a advantage because they are narrower

regards Roy

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WGT is 1S as well.
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:15 PM   #21321
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hey guys, I have been having a problem and wanted to know if anybody had any ideas, I have been running a 6.5 with boost in 12th scale for about a week now and the positive battery lead keeps coming undone from the bullet plug. The confusion for me is this, the speed control itself isnt getting very hot, 3 LED's at the most i have gotten so far, today i switched the car back to 13.5 boosted and the battery stopped coming undone, but the speedo is getting unusually hot for a 13.5, like 4 LED's after a 6 minute run using Mike Dumas's setup from 2011 snowbirds. any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:00 PM   #21322
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Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
hey guys, I have been having a problem and wanted to know if anybody had any ideas, I have been running a 6.5 with boost in 12th scale for about a week now and the positive battery lead keeps coming undone from the bullet plug. The confusion for me is this, the speed control itself isnt getting very hot, 3 LED's at the most i have gotten so far, today i switched the car back to 13.5 boosted and the battery stopped coming undone, but the speedo is getting unusually hot for a 13.5, like 4 LED's after a 6 minute run using Mike Dumas's setup from 2011 snowbirds. any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
The problem is probably with your wire gauge or resistance. you NEED to run thick wires for modified.
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:14 PM   #21323
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The problem is probably with your wire gauge or resistance. you NEED to run thick wires for modified.
like 12 gauge thick? Im running TQ 13 gauge now for my battery leads. Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:35 PM   #21324
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the connector also can be warn out causing resistance. I have seen wires unsolder from esc because of the battery or ESC connector worn out.
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:53 PM   #21325
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like 12 gauge thick? Im running TQ 13 gauge now for my battery leads. Thanks!
TQ wire is the only wire I've ever run since they came out with no problems. Checking your soldering job.
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:59 PM   #21326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lidebt2 View Post
TQ wire is the only wire I've ever run since they came out with no problems. Checking your soldering job.
Quote:
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the connector also can be warn out causing resistance. I have seen wires unsolder from esc because of the battery or ESC connector worn out.
I have replaced the connector already and also resoldered both the esc and connector, the next thing im going to try is thicker wire as Mike H. said. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:17 PM   #21327
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Truly, I have very high regard for TQ wire. Use it all the time.

But, just today, I witnessed a single 13 gauge motor wire on a pan car go up in smoke.

Motor wire that flexes between an ESC and motor in the rear pod can be more susceptable to being damaged. Especially, when solder makes a portion of the wire stiff so the flexing is localized to a specify section of the wire.

Sooooo...Consider changing out BOTH of your 13 gauge motor wires.

Otherwise, I was initially guessing that your cap could be bad; but, the wiring still seems more likely.

Bill
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:28 PM   #21328
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Truly, I have very high regard for TQ wire. Use it all the time.

But, just today, I witnessed a single 13 gauge motor wire on a pan car go up in smoke.

Motor wire that flexes between an ESC and motor in the rear pod can be more susceptable to being damaged. Especially, when solder makes a portion of the wire stiff so the flexing is localized to a specify section of the wire.

Sooooo...Consider changing out BOTH of your 13 gauge motor wires.

Otherwise, I was initially guessing that your cap could be bad; but, the wiring still seems more likely.

Bill
Thanks Bill, I now have a couple things im going to try if the bigger wire does not work. Glad I have spare caps. Thanks again guys!
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:21 PM   #21329
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I have a problem with my RS and want to see if there is anything I can do. I was racing oval 13.5 1s on Saturday and bumped a wall. Now when I say bump I mean a slight bump nothing to bad. Right after the him my car shut down. After taking it over to the pit and playing around with it this is what I found.
When I turn it on the ESC lights up as should but there is no chime that all is good. I get no motor response at all but the lights are showing that all is well and ramp up on throttle and so solid with brake, but nothing happens. The servo works and volt booster shows that it is working. I also changed the motor and rx and still nothing. I am guessing my RS is gone but am hoping someone might know how to revive it.
BTW, I also tried to rebind and recalibrate my esc with no result.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:16 PM   #21330
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No chime can be caused by a few things. The chime is made by the motor actually. Try using a 2s pack. This eliminates most of the issues that could cause this problem externally.

If this still occurs, unplug the sensor harness from the esc side, power up. Chime or no chime?
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