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Old 10-10-2011, 09:52 PM   #21136
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Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
to be honest acceleration was a bit "aggressive" with a bit of hesitation... which I think might have had a bit to do with my neutral width as well... as for top speed it probably was a little lacking over what I expected but not substantially
Without seeing your car run, it's hard to say whether the hesitation is gearing, or start RPM. Neutral width only affects how much throttle is needed before power is applied. If you're a smooth driver, a lower neutral width can help, if you're not, you probably won't notice any difference.
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Apparently running 12th mod and 12th 17.5 requires two cars for some but if one we're to run one car is it hard to change the profile from mod to 17.5 for 12th with the RS Pro

The Pro works for 12th mod correct? Lowest turn it will allow for 12th mod? We're their any guys in the 12th mod running the pro at the IIC

Thanks
Yes, the Pro works fine in 12th mod, and you can change from your preferred mod profile to a blinky profile without a computer, with a few button pushes.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:58 PM   #21137
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Without seeing your car run, it's hard to say whether the hesitation is gearing, or start RPM. Neutral width only affects how much throttle is needed before power is applied. If you're a smooth driver, a lower neutral width can help, if you're not, you probably won't notice any difference.


Yes, the Pro works fine in 12th mod, and you can change from your preferred mod profile to a blinky profile without a computer, with a few button pushes.
Are these things that get changed going to have to set throttle and the transmitter or just a profile is saved and you just set it with a few button pushes. I guess what I'm uncertain about is there anything else you need to change except motor when going from 17.5 to mod

So no need for two cars...lol

What is the motor limit for the pro in 12th or what you've heard people most use in mod say at the IIC track?

Thanks again
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:04 PM   #21138
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Originally Posted by Infinite 12th View Post
Are these things that get changed going to have to set throttle and the transmitter or just a profile is saved and you just set it with a few button pushes. I guess what I'm uncertain about is there anything else you need to change except motor when going from 17.5 to mod

So no need for two cars...lol

What is the motor limit for the pro or what you've heard people most use in mod say at the IIC track?

Thanks again
No need to recalibrate to your radio when switching profiles. C1/C2 are user configurable profiles saved to the ESC that you've set using the hotwire, Timing Profile 1 is blinky, then there's some "canned" timing profiles you could use as well. Once your custom profiles are set to your liking, you can switch the ESC using the onboard buttons.

It's a good idea to recalibrate when you update firmware though.

To change from blinky to mod, you'd have to change throttle profile, motor, gearing, tires, and possibly you'd want different pod dampening and/or front end settings. I suppose you could run one car in both at the same event, but it would definitely be easier to dial in for each class with two cars.

Fastest motor I've seen in a 1/12 was a 4.5. As far as I know, there's no motor limit on the Pro whether it's 1s or 2s.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:13 PM   #21139
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No need to recalibrate to your radio when switching profiles. C1/C2 are user configurable profiles saved to the ESC that you've set using the hotwire, Timing Profile 1 is blinky, then there's some "canned" timing profiles you could use as well. Once your custom profiles are set to your liking, you can switch the ESC using the onboard buttons.

It's a good idea to recalibrate when you update firmware though.

To change from blinky to mod, you'd have to change throttle profile, motor, gearing, tires, and possibly you'd want different pod dampening and/or front end settings. I suppose you could run one car in both at the same event, but it would definitely be easier to dial in for each class with two cars.

Fastest motor I've seen in a 1/12 was a 4.5. As far as I know, there's no motor limit on the Pro whether it's 1s or 2s.
Thanks

I guess some people have like 6 cars for big events...lol
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:19 PM   #21140
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Default IIC ESC Set ups

How long until we see some Tekin RS set ups from the IIC?
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:51 AM   #21141
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How long until we see some Tekin RS set ups from the IIC?
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:13 AM   #21142
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soon!
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:28 AM   #21143
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I think you're mixing up some of the figures... I don't mention an 8.5 FDR anywhere and the ESC settings I gave are for an 8.5T motor not a 17.5..
Sorry man, yep mixed your numbers around, anyway 6ish for an 8.5t is wrong, but you should be nearer for the 17.5t, follow the rest and make sure you check the temperature after 1/2 minutes running.

for the 8.5t I would look at 8,5 fdr to start.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:28 PM   #21144
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Hey guys. A mate of mine is just getting into RC, and is running a 540 with his tekin RS (couldn't resist it to "future proof"). Whenever we plug it into my hotwire and try to set it for brushed fwd an brk only, it blinks wrong motor type at us, yet if we select fwd brk rev it works fine.

Any thoughts?
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:12 PM   #21145
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
Hey guys. A mate of mine is just getting into RC, and is running a 540 with his tekin RS (couldn't resist it to "future proof"). Whenever we plug it into my hotwire and try to set it for brushed fwd an brk only, it blinks wrong motor type at us, yet if we select fwd brk rev it works fine.

Any thoughts?
Since you want forward only did you attach the wires from A, B and C to the motor negative and then branch the battery positive to the battery and the motor positive. The battery neg goes only to the battery.
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:22 PM   #21146
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
Hey guys. A mate of mine is just getting into RC, and is running a 540 with his tekin RS (couldn't resist it to "future proof"). Whenever we plug it into my hotwire and try to set it for brushed fwd an brk only, it blinks wrong motor type at us, yet if we select fwd brk rev it works fine.

Any thoughts?
You don't have it wired properly for fwd brk only then. Look at the wiring schematic better.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:39 PM   #21147
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Has anyone used the new novak voltage booster? Just curious my new chassis has no room for reciever pack. Thank you! Congrats to tekin on the success in vegas! My tekin gear never lets me down!
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:43 PM   #21148
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Has anyone used the new novak voltage booster? Just curious my new chassis has no room for reciever pack. Thank you! Congrats to tekin on the success in vegas! My tekin gear never lets me down!
The TQ Booster is smaller and so is the one on Stormer Hobbies.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:48 PM   #21149
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Has anyone used the new novak voltage booster? Just curious my new chassis has no room for reciever pack. Thank you! Congrats to tekin on the success in vegas! My tekin gear never lets me down!
Yes. Follow the instructions, works as advertised. Read the Tekin 1S thread.

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Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
The TQ Booster is smaller and so is the one on Stormer Hobbies.
Agreed, the TQ booster is smaller, and the Stormer import is cheaper. I've used all 3, and they all work as advertised. The TQ is easiest to install, the Stormer cannot be used effectively without some rewiring, and the Novaks' cut off voltage is a little too high for some applications.

Just be aware that the heavier the car (wgt, oval vs. 12th) and the faster the class (mod vs. 17.5/13.5) and boosted vs. blinky, the more you'll want an rx pack. The Novak is NOT the item to use for mod!!
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:34 PM   #21150
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Agreed which is why you'll see a 2S LiFe pack in both my 1/12 and WGT. Plus it's nice having 6.6+ volts to power the servo instead of 5.
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