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Old 06-29-2011, 12:53 PM   #20776
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Thanks for advice -

I checked out his set up on the tekin forum before I posted.

Boost 50 and Turbo 15 FDR 7.00

I currently use a 10.5 with my RS Pro on with same settings on FDR 8.2 (Have settled on this after months of testing and it is quick)

If I used those settings with a 6.5 I would expect a melt down !!

I was expecting more conservative settings but if thats the only advice I get I will do some testing of my own.

Thanks
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:19 PM   #20777
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Originally Posted by ira View Post
I'm going to be racing 1/12th this winter, what is the best way to use the RS PRO ESC for 1 cell LiPo? With a receiver battery back or with a voltage booster?

Thanks for the help.
With a Tekin RS, TQ Booster, and a 4.5 mod, had no issues.
Tekin is not my 1st choice for 1s mod, but it is solid.
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Old 06-29-2011, 05:48 PM   #20778
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Ok what motor is this wind wise? your setup is very mild unless you're using a 7.5 or faster motor.

Your gearing is kinda out of whack though since none of us use a 90T spur on the CR. Also with the combined 35 motor and 20 boost you're at 55 degrees of timing...

Wheelies are a part of offroad. Use current limiter to tame them down. Try 80 right out of the gate.
Thank you for answer.
Oh yes... I forgot to add that it is 7.5T. I used 90T spur to 22T pinion but now I put 78 to 21 to my new tlr22 but have not tried it more decent.

And the timing is thing that I am confused. As many people are having absolutely different settings. And I am most confused about the static timing redline to ballistic. If there is some really good guide that goes to depth of this I would like to read it. IMHO not only word but dyno graphs of some different settings would say much.

Yes I know that wheelies are part of offroad but sometimes I had the feeling it was not equal to throttle applied.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:00 PM   #20779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieV View Post
Thanks for advice -

I checked out his set up on the tekin forum before I posted.

Boost 50 and Turbo 15 FDR 7.00

I currently use a 10.5 with my RS Pro on with same settings on FDR 8.2 (Have settled on this after months of testing and it is quick)

If I used those settings with a 6.5 I would expect a melt down !!

I was expecting more conservative settings but if thats the only advice I get I will do some testing of my own.

Thanks
This setup is solid. I spent since April working on it and sent to Randy late May. I spent almost 2 months working on this setup to make sure it was solid and kept cool. The temps stay right were you want them on the speedo, and I consistantly pull my motor off at 165 degrees. At the RROC I was motoring 4.5 by 10 feet on the back straight and even some 3.5s. I highly reccomend you try it. It is smooth, fast, and really efficient. The efficiency is one of the first things I noticed compared to running a 4.5. I consistantly put in 2600 back into 5600 pack every run. The setup I sent Randy was ran at Norcal which is about 120-130 feet back straight. I have also been using at Ripon RC Speedway which about 85 feet with no turbo at all.

Derek Stephansen
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Old 06-30-2011, 03:34 AM   #20780
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This setup is solid. I spent since April working on it and sent to Randy late May. I spent almost 2 months working on this setup to make sure it was solid and kept cool. The temps stay right were you want them on the speedo, and I consistantly pull my motor off at 165 degrees. At the RROC I was motoring 4.5 by 10 feet on the back straight and even some 3.5s. I highly reccomend you try it. It is smooth, fast, and really efficient. The efficiency is one of the first things I noticed compared to running a 4.5. I consistantly put in 2600 back into 5600 pack every run. The setup I sent Randy was ran at Norcal which is about 120-130 feet back straight. I have also been using at Ripon RC Speedway which about 85 feet with no turbo at all.

Derek Stephansen
Thanks for the detailed response.

I guess the big thing is that the LRP X12's have a lot more built in timing than the Tekin Motor so I will be a little conservative to start.

Do you use a fan to blow on the speedo and or / motor to help keep the temps down?
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:38 AM   #20781
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Originally Posted by JamieV View Post
Thanks for the detailed response.

I guess the big thing is that the LRP X12's have a lot more built in timing than the Tekin Motor so I will be a little conservative to start.

Do you use a fan to blow on the speedo and or / motor to help keep the temps down?
I am currently running no fan on the speedo or the motor, mainly becuase I felt the temps that I was pulling both the speedo and motor off were fine. I am running two caps on the speedo though.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:30 AM   #20782
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Thank you for answer.
Oh yes... I forgot to add that it is 7.5T. I used 90T spur to 22T pinion but now I put 78 to 21 to my new tlr22 but have not tried it more decent.

And the timing is thing that I am confused. As many people are having absolutely different settings. And I am most confused about the static timing redline to ballistic. If there is some really good guide that goes to depth of this I would like to read it. IMHO not only word but dyno graphs of some different settings would say much.

Yes I know that wheelies are part of offroad but sometimes I had the feeling it was not equal to throttle applied.
Try any of the 7.5 setups from our team guys by simply putting your N motor to 0 degrees of timing.
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Old 06-30-2011, 03:33 PM   #20783
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Most are with really high boost 30+ what would be up to 60+ . So the inbuilt motor timing of ballistic in N is similar to redline at 10?
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Old 06-30-2011, 04:13 PM   #20784
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Anybody with a good RO and settings for trinity Duo 2 13.5 1S 12th scale on a 150'x75' pavement open road course. I searched the thread and couldn't find what I was looking for. And I'm going out of town to this track and just trying to find a couple of combos to try out in qualifers when I'm there. hard to get clean open practice with nitro cars.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:42 PM   #20785
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Slightly off topic, but what's the difference between a "Torque" rotor and a "Standard" rotor with the Tekin redline motors? I'm guessing there's a difference in gauss, but which direction vs. "Standard"? Also, does a larger diameter rotor run hotter or cooler vs. a smaller one?
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:48 AM   #20786
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In general a larger rotor will have more torque, less rpm, and run cooler when geared properly.

Our HT rotors can both be larger in OD but also smaller in ID. The gauss can be as much as 35% stronger when switching to a HT Rotor...
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:50 AM   #20787
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I have a RS with 1S oval setup (with 220life rx pack). 17.5 motor. Hot wire setup as brushless fwd/brake. RS accepted set points from 4pk, but lights 1/2 and 6/7 blink. Per the manual it's incorrect motor selected. Could this be a back sensor wire? Bad motor? Thanks
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:42 AM   #20788
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Originally Posted by ddesros2 View Post
I have a RS with 1S oval setup (with 220life rx pack). 17.5 motor. Hot wire setup as brushless fwd/brake. RS accepted set points from 4pk, but lights 1/2 and 6/7 blink. Per the manual it's incorrect motor selected. Could this be a back sensor wire? Bad motor? Thanks
it can also show this when the rx doesn't get enough voltage,plug a 2s in the esc to see if it 12,67 come back
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:53 AM   #20789
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it can also show this when the rx doesn't get enough voltage,plug a 2s in the esc to see if it 12,67 come back
Tried with 2S and all works fine. Thanks
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:40 AM   #20790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddesros2 View Post
I have a RS with 1S oval setup (with 220life rx pack). 17.5 motor. Hot wire setup as brushless fwd/brake. RS accepted set points from 4pk, but lights 1/2 and 6/7 blink. Per the manual it's incorrect motor selected. Could this be a back sensor wire? Bad motor? Thanks
It would be hepful if you could post a screen cap of the Dashboard settings.
Tekin can run without sensor wire.
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Tekin RS ESC sensored-md-13.jpg  
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