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Old 06-06-2011, 11:54 AM   #20611
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2 ticks positive which is about +16* on a D3. That coupled with the boost and turbo he is running is way too much timing for a 13.5 in my opinion.
Thanx. How do work that out so I can also know for future reference.
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:02 PM   #20612
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Thanx. How do work that out so I can also know for future reference.
Each tick mark on the timing ring is 8* of timing. 2 ticks positive = 16* advanced.
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:58 PM   #20613
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I'd like to see the setup changes above in red. Adding a 2n TT3520 power cap will also help with heat. I'd like to see the physical layout in the car also.
I have now finally got the opportunity to test the car again.
I change to one 680uF 16V 105 degree cap I guess that have the exact same effect as a 2n TT3520.
Just a question why don't the ESC come with a larger cap from fabric, that will obviously lower the temp and Im sure some would not have heat problems including me?
Anyway the ESC works great no overheat, I change to 2T larger pinion and added some timing and turbo and the car is really fast!!
Temp on ESC and motor after 5min aprox 75 dergree C, no problem

BIG thanks
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:21 AM   #20614
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I have now finally got the opportunity to test the car again.
I change to one 680uF 16V 105 degree cap I guess that have the exact same effect as a 2n TT3520.
Just a question why don't the ESC come with a larger cap from fabric, that will obviously lower the temp and Im sure some would not have heat problems including me?
Anyway the ESC works great no overheat, I change to 2T larger pinion and added some timing and turbo and the car is really fast!!
Temp on ESC and motor after 5min aprox 75 dergree C, no problem

BIG thanks
I believe the factory cap is more than capable for the Tekin's intended usage.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:59 AM   #20615
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The cap we spec is more than fine for 99% of the users out there. When running heavy mod motors we suggest 2 or more of our TT3520 caps.
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:11 PM   #20616
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Ok well it has been awhile since I have ran my TC in the 17.5 boost class so I haven't posted here in awhile. I finally got to run it this past weekend with a new radio (New Spektrum Pro) and I am still having a bit of what seems to be a turbo fade issue...basically about half way through the race my car seems noticeably slower on the straight than other cars running the RS. Initially I start out the same speed as everyone else but just seem to have more drop off than everyone else. My motor temps in the low 150s and so far I have changed out the RS, the radio, and the motor. So I'm wondering if my battery could be falling off that much or if I should look at something else. Also I am not running fan on the motor and most if not all of the RS's I am racing against are running a fan. I don't remember my settings off hand but have tried many different things and typically run the same settings as others at my track. Any other suggestions of things for me to look at?
Id like to bring everyone back to this issue

Im having the exact same issue.. within the last 1.5 minutes of the race its almost as if my boost and turbo completely turn off. Cant figure out why.. The esc comes off around 140degrees. the motor is below 180 degrees.

anyone have any idea why?
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:22 PM   #20617
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It can be a few different things. Batteries are often overlooked but really should be paid attention to. Take a look at how many mah's you put back into your battery after a full run. If you're nearing the 2/3 mark you're pack is not performing.

Have a friend be around the edge of the track at this time frame. If you experience this issue drive the car over to him and have him watch the led's on the RS. Hit full throttle for just long enough to verify your getting all led's lit and FLASHING! They must flash to get turbo to activate.
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:50 PM   #20618
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It can be a few different things. Batteries are often overlooked but really should be paid attention to. Take a look at how many mah's you put back into your battery after a full run. If you're nearing the 2/3 mark you're pack is not performing.

Have a friend be around the edge of the track at this time frame. If you experience this issue drive the car over to him and have him watch the led's on the RS. Hit full throttle for just long enough to verify your getting all led's lit and FLASHING! They must flash to get turbo to activate.
I run a 6000mah pack, and put no more than 1800 back in MAX.. I think the last time i ran it was below 1400mah.
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Old 06-07-2011, 05:48 PM   #20619
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Ok,

Have you checked your sensor operation on the unit? 1400mah isn't a lot and I'd expect it to be much higher actually. More around 2400mah.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:29 PM   #20620
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Ok,

Have you checked your sensor operation on the unit? 1400mah isn't a lot and I'd expect it to be much higher actually. More around 2400mah.
Well it worked 100% perfect the first half of the race. Not sure if it was working at all during the last half

But I know next time I turned the car on it worked fine. Then the same thing. Half way thru the race turbo and boost went out.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:38 PM   #20621
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Have you checked that you are getting full throttle when this is happening?, as Randy mentioned have a look at the LED lights it happens and see if they are all on and flashing when at full throttle.

If they aren't bump up your throttle high points on you radio by 5-10%, this worked for me as mine was doing the exact same thing. The other way to do it if your radio doesn't go above 100% on throttle high point or EPA is to set your radio at 90% and do your esc calibration again and then once done bump it back to 100.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:10 PM   #20622
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Have you checked that you are getting full throttle when this is happening?, as Randy mentioned have a look at the LED lights it happens and see if they are all on and flashing when at full throttle.

If they aren't bump up your throttle high points on you radio by 5-10%, this worked for me as mine was doing the exact same thing. The other way to do it if your radio doesn't go above 100% on throttle high point or EPA is to set your radio at 90% and do your esc calibration again and then once done bump it back to 100.
Did you have that issue 100% of the time before you fixed ur EPA? Or just toward the end of races like me?
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:12 PM   #20623
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Have you checked that you are getting full throttle when this is happening?, as Randy mentioned have a look at the LED lights it happens and see if they are all on and flashing when at full throttle.

If they aren't bump up your throttle high points on you radio by 5-10%, this worked for me as mine was doing the exact same thing. The other way to do it if your radio doesn't go above 100% on throttle high point or EPA is to set your radio at 90% and do your esc calibration again and then once done bump it back to 100.
I've done that and still had the problem...even bought a new radio...I think I'm going to need a new battery or two but as TC is low on my list of priorities right now I'll live with the fade until I can free up some funds for TC.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:39 PM   #20624
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Did you have that issue 100% of the time before you fixed ur EPA? Or just toward the end of races like me?
I had it always towards the 3/4 of race distance, it was like all turbo and timing had disappeared. I would bring it in and all temps were fine and pack was fine, put another pack in it and it would do exactly the same thing.

The next time it did it I pulled over and bumped up the EPA on the throttle by 5-10% and from then on it never did it again. It may not be your issue but is definitely worth trying before spending money on other areas when you may not need to.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:07 PM   #20625
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Id like to bring everyone back to this issue

Im having the exact same issue.. within the last 1.5 minutes of the race its almost as if my boost and turbo completely turn off. Cant figure out why.. The esc comes off around 140degrees. the motor is below 180 degrees.

anyone have any idea why?
Hows your lap times when this happens. I run 17.5 class and I'm dumping 2500-3000 mah in 6 minutes and it feels flat on the last minute or so of the run but my lap times are the same so I know its just battery and heat issues for me.
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