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Old 01-08-2009, 12:21 AM   #1996
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So now how does this boost work? Is it a constant degree increase or does it only apply under acceleration?
The boost is constant. Same effect as turning the endbell without having to actually turn the endbell.
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Old 01-08-2009, 12:30 AM   #1997
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The boost is constant. Same effect as turning the endbell without having to actually turn the endbell.
so timing advance and boost is one and the same thing?

thanks

g
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:03 AM   #1998
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so timing advance and boost is one and the same thing?

thanks

g
Timing advance in dual mode resets the timing on the motor to zero, and then you add timing from there...

The timing boost adds extra timing to the motors timing... Thats how i understand it...
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:25 AM   #1999
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so instead of adding timing why not just gear up. whats the difference?
That would work in some cases but:
Some motors have fixed timing
Some motors don't have enough max timing
Some motors have predetermined increments that may be to drastic of a step
other issues may occur where the car can not fit a bigger gear or the particular class is relegated to a max gear.
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:28 AM   #2000
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I had 10 degrees in the can, and 12 in the boost, 17.5 trinity duo as well. So, if I take the can to 0, then that means more rpms, correct? Thus gearing down would make sense.
With the Trinity Duo there are 3 sets of timing locations (0-10-20) There is timing already built into the motor, approximately 10-15 degrees, so when you set the motor at 0 timing, you are already at 10-15 degrees internally of total timing. When you set the motor to 10 degrees on the can, you are approximately at 20 - 25 degrees of total timing. When you set the motor at 20 degrees of timing in the can you are at approximately 30-35 degrees of total timing of the motor. This is where you can add extra timing with the Tekin speedo's.

So it sounds like you had the can set to 10 and the speedo set to 12 (boost) that your total timing was at 32-37 degrees of total timing.

Make sense now?

If you take the can down to 0 you will loose RPM's and possibly have to gear up to gain RPM's back.
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:17 AM   #2001
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ok i have a tekin 10.5. its timing is preset at 12 degress from factory according to the sticker and where its lined up. does it have more timing built into it. also im running it in rubber tc, with 10 degees boost and 5.83 fdr. should i be running more boost. temps are at 130 after 6 minutes.
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:19 AM   #2002
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ok i have a tekin 10.5. its timing is preset at 12 degress from factory according to the sticker and where its lined up. does it have more timing built into it. also im running it in rubber tc, with 10 degees boost and 5.83 fdr. should i be running more boost. temps are at 130 after 6 minutes.
12* is where we set them from the factory and there is another 12* for a total of 24* timing available on the endbell.
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:26 AM   #2003
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wow, this is starting to remind me of those 36degree stock motors that used to be around in our hobby!
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:51 AM   #2004
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Hey gang... new RS owner as of last night... couple questions.

1) Instructions say to install a capacitor and I have seen people on here talk about using them and in some cases 2 of them. However no capacitor came in the box. Should I have gotten one with the speedy or is that something I have to buy separately?

2) No team drivers in the area that I know of and haven't asked for ver 189. So I'm on 180 (I'm fine with that). Would someone send me a good base hotwire setup for 180 using a 21.5 Novak (VTA) and/or Duo 17.5 for rubber touring?

Thanks
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:53 AM   #2005
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Originally Posted by eddie10 View Post
ok i have a tekin 10.5. its timing is preset at 12 degress from factory according to the sticker and where its lined up. does it have more timing built into it. also im running it in rubber tc, with 10 degees boost and 5.83 fdr. should i be running more boost. temps are at 130 after 6 minutes.
I run mine at full motor timing (24 degrees) + 15 degrees of boost with around 5.5 FDR indoors.
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:11 AM   #2006
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Questions?? reverse battery polarity

This week I received my RS Pro along with the hotwire. (Thanks Axiommotors!)

Also thanks to Randy for sending me the 189 software.

I will use it in my corally sp12m on 4 cells with a lrp 9.5 stock spec motor.

Today I wired my new esc for the first time. When I wanted to test it, I accidently connected the battery the wrong way. The switch was still in the off position and

I disconnected it after about 3 seconds. The esc was not hot, but it was in fact warm. After I connected it the right way everything seems to work correctly. I did not get the chance to run the car, but the motor revs good.

But I'm still afraid that I might have fried some FETs, other components or maybe the capacitor. Could this be possible even when everything seems to work? Or is it safe to say that there are no broken components?

Thanks
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:15 AM   #2007
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Again, anyone looking for 189 software can email me for it. I do like to know where you're located so I can hook you up with team drivers in your area.


Ahmed, if you fried some fet's it would indeed not work properly.

padailey : There should have been a small silver cap in your esc box. If you didn't receive it please email me at [email protected] for a replacement.
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:34 AM   #2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padailey View Post
Hey gang... new RS owner as of last night... couple questions.

1) Instructions say to install a capacitor and I have seen people on here talk about using them and in some cases 2 of them. However no capacitor came in the box. Should I have gotten one with the speedy or is that something I have to buy separately?
Mine came with the cap in the box. It's a pretty small cap, I didn't notice it at first. If you call tekin customer support (number on the www dot teamtekin dot com website) I'm sure they'll take care of you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by padailey View Post
2) No team drivers in the area that I know of and haven't asked for ver 189. So I'm on 180 (I'm fine with that). Would someone send me a good base hotwire setup for 180 using a 21.5 Novak (VTA) and/or Duo 17.5 for rubber touring?

Thanks
I ran 17.5 rubber touring on carpet with 1.80 and for me the best setting was:
Sensor only mode box: unchecked
drag brake:30 (adjust to suit your taste)
reverse strength:0
brake strength: 80 (adjust to your taste)
neutral width: 10
motor type: BL-FW
throttle profile: 4
voltage cutoff: 2s LiPO
push control: off
Timing advance: max
current limit: off

The guys at my track all suggested running sensor only mode, but I liked the feel in hybrid mode. I really didn't do enough testing in sensor only mode, it might have been faster had I stayed with it. I'd go middle hole on the endbell, in hybrid mode the RS looks at the endbell timing for the start, then ignores the sensors once the motor is spinning. I felt the best starts for me were on the middle hole.

I geared the car anywhere from 3.75 to 4.0 depending on the layout (rubber tire, for foam look for a rollout of 49-51mm. Maybe a bit higher, higher corner speeds in foams might let you get off the corners with less current draw and keep things cooler)

Motor temp after a run was anywhere from 135 to 165 depending on how hard I was driving...

Like I said, I didn't really experiment with sensor mode with the 1.80 firmware. If you want to, check the sensor only checkbox, crank the endbell to 20, drop a few teeth at first to make sure you don't overheat anything, and run some laps... gear up a tooth at a time until you stop getting faster or the motor gets warmer than you want. I felt 170 was as warm as I wanted to get after a run.
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:54 AM   #2009
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Thx Randy, that sets my mind at easy for now.
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:32 PM   #2010
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Again, anyone looking for 189 software can email me for it. I do like to know where you're located so I can hook you up with team drivers in your area.


Ahmed, if you fried some fet's it would indeed not work properly.

padailey : There should have been a small silver cap in your esc box. If you didn't receive it please email me at [email protected] for a replacement.
Hi Randy,
I emailed you few days ago and still pending your response. I emailed thru gmail. Did it got filter out?

looking fwd towards your response.

Thanks.
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