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Old 03-15-2011, 08:34 PM   #19981
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durtbag scroll down the page and you will see it

http://teamtekin.com/hotwire_RS.html
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:43 PM   #19982
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durtbag scroll down the page and you will see it

http://teamtekin.com/hotwire_RS.html
Thanks for posting this link. Hadn't seen it before.

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Old 03-15-2011, 09:11 PM   #19983
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durtbag scroll down the page and you will see it
That is helpful. It would seem that I can adjust the Throttle Profile manually, but not the Timing Profile. Are these the same thing? Not really clear to me at this time. All I want to do is get the blinky working.

Hope I'm not being stupid.

Thanks
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:14 PM   #19984
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once it is updated to 212 there is no manual throttle profile you need a hotwire to do this,version 200 ond older there is,did you update the rs
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:24 PM   #19985
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once it is updated to 212 there is no manual throttle profile you need a hotwire to do this,version 200 ond older there is,did you update the rs
No, I have not updated the RS. This would explain my problem.
Thanks
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:33 PM   #19986
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is it brand new if so you are in a no timed mode it just doesn't blink,if you look herescroll down you can see the updates and what the older versions are.now if you hook up the rs to a 212 it will update automatically(mine does)cant say for other pc's
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:46 PM   #19987
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is it brand new if so you are in a no timed mode it just doesn't blink,if you look herescroll down you can see the updates and what the older versions are.now if you hook up the rs to a 212 it will update automatically(mine does)cant say for other pc's
Yeah, I just got back into racing and this is all new to me. I don't have Hotwire or PC. Just stupid Mac. I raced on the weekend and was getting some looks as the Boost kicked in down the long straight
I will have to get together with somebody from the club and update the rs so that I can get blinky working.
Oh well, good excuse to buy a new netbook. Boy, this racing thing is getting expensive
thanks for the links and the help!
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Last edited by durtbag; 03-15-2011 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Didn't read well enough. Are you saying that a new rs comes in no timed mode?
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:59 PM   #19988
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If you need to run modified motors, you will need RS Pro.
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voltage doesn't mater it is rated to a 5t
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Voltage does matter actually. If you cut voltage in half you increase current in a similar fashion.

For mod 1s 1/12 we recommend the RS Pro. You can try it as some have been successful.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:45 PM   #19989
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Alright, so I did some testing. The Tekin is definitely weird.

Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.

1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.

I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.

So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.

The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.

-Mike
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:52 PM   #19990
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Alright, so I did some testing. The Tekin is definitely weird.

Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.

1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.

I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.

So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.

The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.

-Mike
Your not the only one, I tried everything to get rid of that "dead zone" at the begining of the throttle throw and couldnt, think you are stuck with it when using the tekin.
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:21 AM   #19991
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Your not the only one, I tried everything to get rid of that "dead zone" at the begining of the throttle throw and couldnt, think you are stuck with it when using the tekin.
What radio do you use?

-Mike
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:50 AM   #19992
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Originally Posted by Shopkeeper View Post
Your not the only one, I tried everything to get rid of that "dead zone" at the begining of the throttle throw and couldnt, think you are stuck with it when using the tekin.
Bump up your throttle trim until the light goes up, then back it off a click.

Not sure if this is an approved method or not or how it will affect drag or push but I like it.
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:29 AM   #19993
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.

-Mike
hang on... did the other settings give you cogging issues? If it did, try another sensor wire and motor after that. I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be the rotor in the motor had slipped a little on the shaft and was causing the hesitation and cogging. And upon back off after free-revving (lightly) it seemed like it had quite a bit of drag brakes on. If you are getting any symptoms like above, try another motor after the sensor wire.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:24 AM   #19994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Alright, so I did some testing. The Tekin is definitely weird.

Here's roughly what happens when I pull the trigger slowly.

1) First 10% of throttle throw: complete dead band. Absolutely no response from the speedo, even with minimum throttle at 20, and neutral with at 0.
2) Minimum throttle: Once you pass the dead zone, the tekin goes to min throttle.
3) Neutral width: As you pull the trigger more, the Tekin stays at the same throttle until you pass the neutral zone. With the min throttle at 20, I tested various neutral widths from 0 to 10. With neutral with of 0, the drive jumped to min right after the dead zone, and then climbed smoothly with more trigger. With higher neutral width values, the drive would stay flat at min throttle farther past the dead zone before increasing with added trigger.

I have to say, this seems pretty dumb to me. The way it should work is that neutral width should adjust the dead zone, and 0 should really be zero, or at least a lot closer than 10%. Then once you're past the dead zone, it should jump to min throttle, and then increase linearly from there.

So... I can imagine that the punch/throttle accel setting would be nice to have in the radio.

The best setting I could find, as far as the bench goes, was 0 neutral width and 15 min throttle. This made it give nothing for 10% of the throw, and then a slow, gentle drive with no cogging or anything. I'll definitely try that as a baseline next race night.

-Mike
It seems like you were able to improve on the problem. It seems like the rest of the problem lies with your radio. I use a 2.4ghz M11 and with a 15 nw and 20 minimum throttle I have no dead band when I pull the trigger.
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:07 AM   #19995
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Originally Posted by jrxs-r View Post
hang on... did the other settings give you cogging issues? If it did, try another sensor wire and motor after that. I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be the rotor in the motor had slipped a little on the shaft and was causing the hesitation and cogging. And upon back off after free-revving (lightly) it seemed like it had quite a bit of drag brakes on. If you are getting any symptoms like above, try another motor after the sensor wire.
No significant cogging. Just a tiny bit when I squeeze the trigger ever-so-slowly and find that point right when the wheels are just barely trying to start turning. I never get any in practical usage.

-Mike
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