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Old 03-02-2011, 08:25 PM   #19876
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Thanks Randy...
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:01 PM   #19877
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Sorry Randy

But somewhere the info has been misunderstood. Everything chimes , we all can run a 10min main but 2-3 minutes in the power/boost/ etc. goes flat initial punch/boost is gone. But will post our esc setting tonight like you had earlier requested.
Hey Randy

Here are the setting
Drag 0
Rev 0
Brake 85
Neutral Width 10
Profile 5
Push 40
Boost 50
Turbo 10
Rpm 2437 start 7001 end
Turbo ramp 3
Timing Adv 80
Turbo Delay .5
Throttle min 10
Mtr endbell timing 30deg
Roll out 81

If there's anything I'm missing please let mr know THANKS
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:37 PM   #19878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasb View Post
Hey Randy

Here are the setting
Drag 0
Rev 0
Brake 85
Neutral Width 10
Profile 5
Push 40
Boost 50
Turbo 10
Rpm 2437 start 7001 end
Turbo ramp 3
Timing Adv 80
Turbo Delay .5
Throttle min 10
Mtr endbell timing 30deg
Roll out 81

If there's anything I'm missing please let mr know THANKS
Your motor endbell timing is way to high. If you are going to run 50 boost turn the endbell down to zero timing.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:12 PM   #19879
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What he said. Drop motor timing to zero.

I would also drop the boost down to 40-45 and the ramp down to 1 or 2 myself. Do that and you might be able to pull another tooth or two and go even faster. Give it a shot.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:21 PM   #19880
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Originally Posted by AOD View Post
Your motor endbell timing is way to high. If you are going to run 50 boost turn the endbell down to zero timing.
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
What he said. Drop motor timing to zero.

I would also drop the boost down to 40-45 and the ramp down to 1 or 2 myself. Do that and you might be able to pull another tooth or two and go even faster. Give it a shot.
Good advice
You could also max out the timing advance, it's just a backup.
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:36 AM   #19881
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Good advice
You could also max out the timing advance, it's just a backup.
Do you mean add or take out a tooth or two?
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:22 AM   #19882
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i just threw mine in the bin today. Never been used either. The problem?
The god damn soldering posts are a joke. i never had a problem soldering anything but the 12G wires refuse to stick to those posts. i must have soldered them a dozen times and they just fall apart after a while under some stress.
i don't know what technique i am supposed to use for this, i have been soldering for years without ever having such problems. This has been the most frustrating experience i ever had.
Not to mention it is pointless to use 12G wire if only a tiny part of it makes contact with the posts to transfer the power.
I'm going with castle and tekin can stick their RS Pro where they know
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:41 AM   #19883
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Originally Posted by omegaf View Post
i just threw mine in the bin today. Never been used either. The problem?
The god damn soldering posts are a joke. i never had a problem soldering anything but the 12G wires refuse to stick to those posts. i must have soldered them a dozen times and they just fall apart after a while under some stress.
i don't know what technique i am supposed to use for this, i have been soldering for years without ever having such problems. This has been the most frustrating experience i ever had.
Not to mention it is pointless to use 12G wire if only a tiny part of it makes contact with the posts to transfer the power.
I'm going with castle and tekin can stick their RS Pro where they know
Seriously?

I have a handful of Tekin's (FX's and RS's), and have never had a problem soldering to the posts. Just make sure you tin the post and the wire, after which they'll go together just fine. I like to put a fair bit of solder on the posts, so when heat is applied to both the wire and post, the solder will flow into the wire, creating a solid connection.

Don't give up on it....there are more than a few people that successfully use this speedo.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:22 AM   #19884
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Originally Posted by omegaf View Post
i just threw mine in the bin today. Never been used either. The problem?
The god damn soldering posts are a joke. i never had a problem soldering anything but the 12G wires refuse to stick to those posts. i must have soldered them a dozen times and they just fall apart after a while under some stress.
i don't know what technique i am supposed to use for this, i have been soldering for years without ever having such problems. This has been the most frustrating experience i ever had.
Not to mention it is pointless to use 12G wire if only a tiny part of it makes contact with the posts to transfer the power.
I'm going with castle and tekin can stick their RS Pro where they know
I appologise if any of the following comes out like im trying to make you suck eggs, but:

What Watt rating solder iron are you using ? Your going to need at minimum 50w with a decent size head on it, say 8mm-1cm in size to transfer heat fast. 12g wire needs to very decent amount of heat as it soaks it up really quick. Also, if it helps buy yourself a small tub of flux paste. Just dab a little using a brush onto the post, then tin the post. I wouldnt recommend using to much solder as if this runs down it could ruin the fibre boadr the speedo is mounted onto. I would basically put about 2cm worth of decent quality silver solder on a clean iron tip, then tin the post all around, not just one side. Tin the wires to that you are going to use. I would NOT use flux paste here as it can have the solder flow up the strands causing a stick joint, not ideal.

Now, apply a little heat to the post to warm it, then apply heat to the wire and then place on the post and again apply the iron, this time to melt the solder which should run and join the wire to the post. this should create a clean, neatly soldered join, without loads of solder blobing on it, bright and silver in colour.

I bet, follow the above, you will have a neatly joined speedo
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:54 AM   #19885
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well i unbinned it and tried again.
the only wire i am having serious problems with is the batt+
everything else is now connected nicely and i even put heatshrink on top.
the batt+ post just refuses to heat up. it takes forever for the iron to melt the solder on it. i bet the current joint is cold anyway but it works for now and i won't bother with it.
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:58 AM   #19886
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Originally Posted by omegaf View Post
well i unbinned it and tried again.
the only wire i am having serious problems with is the batt+
everything else is now connected nicely and i even put heatshrink on top.
the batt+ post just refuses to heat up. it takes forever for the iron to melt the solder on it. i bet the current joint is cold anyway but it works for now and i won't bother with it.
Sounds like you need a stronger iron. Big gauge wire and solid posts will just suck the heat right out of it. Head down to the local hardware store and see if they have a Weller SP40. It's usually under 20 dollars and gets VERY hot. It does great work.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:03 AM   #19887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaf View Post
well i unbinned it and tried again.
the only wire i am having serious problems with is the batt+
everything else is now connected nicely and i even put heatshrink on top.
the batt+ post just refuses to heat up. it takes forever for the iron to melt the solder on it. i bet the current joint is cold anyway but it works for now and i won't bother with it.
Not to nitpick but you aren't supposed to put heat shrink over the posts. The posts serve as the RS's heat sink.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:43 AM   #19888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasb View Post
Hey Randy

Boost 50
Turbo 10
Rpm 2437 start 7001 end
Turbo ramp 3
Timing Adv 80
Turbo Delay .5
Throttle min 10
Mtr endbell timing 30deg
Roll out 81

If there's anything I'm missing please let mr know THANKS
Yeah, endbell timing is too high for this setup. I also don't recommend 3.0 turbo ramp rate on any car 90% of the time. You're overboosting and killing your battery for sure.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:46 AM   #19889
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omegaf,

Take a step back and breath man. The solder posts are easy to solder on as long as you take the right steps.

1s. Pre-tin the posts with some good 60/40 Rosin core solder and a HOT iron. 40 watts is MINIMUM here.

2. Pre-tin the wire itself. Again heat is key. The wire should "wick" up the solder pretty quickly.

3. Put a dab of solder on the tip of the iron, then join the two parts together. Make sure to hold the two pieces steady and DO NOT move them until the joint as "cured."


Also as stated before shrink wrap is not recommended most of the time.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:46 AM   #19890
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It's not nit-picking, you REALLY don't want to put heat shrink on them.
As for the soldering, all good advice. I use cheap irons, but they are 50W, and have a chisel tip. Cost about $15US, and I replace them 1-2 times per year.
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