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Old 02-25-2011, 12:48 PM   #19786
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Plugged it into hotwire and it functions normally.

Does that mean I'm good to go? Or do I have to test it with a motor?
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:59 PM   #19787
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Originally Posted by looklikeaflip View Post
Plugged it into hotwire and it functions normally.

Does that mean I'm good to go? Or do I have to test it with a motor?
That depends on whether you bought it to look at and fiddle with in HotWire, or whether you actually bought it to put in a car and run a motor.

Seriously, you've gotta hook it up to a motor to use it...

-Mike
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:03 PM   #19788
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I dont have a lipo battery yet...

I'm brand new to electric so bare with me...
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:46 PM   #19789
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Originally Posted by looklikeaflip View Post
Plugged it into hotwire and it functions normally.

Does that mean I'm good to go? Or do I have to test it with a motor?
And what I meant to say is not if "im good to go" but if it lights up red when connected to the hotwire is that a good indication of a functioning esc?

If not, of course I'd have to test it on a motor to see if it works. I just don't want to waste time soldering it to the motor and changing connectors to find out the ESC doesnt work and needs to be returned to the sender
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:49 PM   #19790
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Originally Posted by looklikeaflip View Post
And what I meant to say is not if "im good to go" but if it lights up red when connected to the hotwire is that a good indication of a functioning esc?

If not, of course I'd have to test it on a motor to see if it works. I just don't want to waste time soldering it to the motor and changing connectors to find out the ESC doesnt work and needs to be returned to the sender
Unless Randy knows some trick, there's just no way to know for sure without hooking it all up.

My guess is that it's just a blown cap. Those things can really stink but without trying it out, you won't know for sure.
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:52 PM   #19791
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Probably a dumb question but how do I determine that its a blown cap and not the esc?
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:36 PM   #19792
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The RS has to be bench tested somehow. You'll need a 2s battery, a good brushless motor and a radio system.

Without special equipment this is the only way.
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:59 PM   #19793
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Originally Posted by looklikeaflip View Post
I dont have a lipo battery yet...

I'm brand new to electric so bare with me...
Sorry for the snarky response. The fastest solution is to find someone local to help. You might try your local hobby shop.

-Mike
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:41 PM   #19794
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I've got a new RS in a new TC6 chassis with a new Trinity D3 17.5 motor. Once I wired everything up to my 2s Protek lipo and turned it on for testing, everything seemed to work fine. However, when I took it out for a spin, it seemed fairly slow AND cold. The motor barely warms up at all after 5-10 minutes of run time. I realize that a 17.5 motor isn't going to be the fastest thing on the planet, but it was not up to speed with the non-timed cars I had seen at my local track. (My fdr is fairly close to the cars that I'd seen racing)

Anyway, here's my issue. I realized that I had not hooked up the sensor wire from motor to esc when I first ran it. Duh!... However, once I plugged the sensor wire in and turned on the power, the esc did not respond. No lights, chimes, or anything. If I unplug the sensor wire, the esc appears to function normally. The 4th light is on almost constantly with the 1st light flashing once every ten seconds or so. If I plug the sensor cable back in, it is unresponsive.

I'm not sure if I need to do something with the esc to encourage it to accept the sensor connection or if there is something wrong. I removed the endbell on my motor to check on a solder drip I had during wiring and I thought I put it all back together just like it was, but maybe I screwed something up. Not sure.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I may head down to the track tomorrow to see if I can get some help, but I thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:30 AM   #19795
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We had a racer who experienced the same issue. Loosen the endbell screws just a little bit. Make sure it is tight enough not to come loose and not loose enough to come off. Additionally, check the sensor wire if it's pretty snugged in the esc and motor.

Hope this helps

Quote:
Originally Posted by cvlooper View Post
I've got a new RS in a new TC6 chassis with a new Trinity D3 17.5 motor. Once I wired everything up to my 2s Protek lipo and turned it on for testing, everything seemed to work fine. However, when I took it out for a spin, it seemed fairly slow AND cold. The motor barely warms up at all after 5-10 minutes of run time. I realize that a 17.5 motor isn't going to be the fastest thing on the planet, but it was not up to speed with the non-timed cars I had seen at my local track. (My fdr is fairly close to the cars that I'd seen racing)

Anyway, here's my issue. I realized that I had not hooked up the sensor wire from motor to esc when I first ran it. Duh!... However, once I plugged the sensor wire in and turned on the power, the esc did not respond. No lights, chimes, or anything. If I unplug the sensor wire, the esc appears to function normally. The 4th light is on almost constantly with the 1st light flashing once every ten seconds or so. If I plug the sensor cable back in, it is unresponsive.

I'm not sure if I need to do something with the esc to encourage it to accept the sensor connection or if there is something wrong. I removed the endbell on my motor to check on a solder drip I had during wiring and I thought I put it all back together just like it was, but maybe I screwed something up. Not sure.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I may head down to the track tomorrow to see if I can get some help, but I thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:32 PM   #19796
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So I took my RS to the LHS and the tech said that although it may work, there could be damage to... I believe he said brakes? So I guess that means it could still work but there could be some internal damage that effects its efficiency or performance.

If you've partially blown an ESC before, what kind of things indicate that something is wrong?

What criteria should I be considering when testing this ESC out?

Being brand new to electric, how do I test to see if the RS functions normally and efficiently?

I need to know soon so I can file a dispute on paypal for selling me a defective unit.
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:31 AM   #19797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by looklikeaflip View Post
So I took my RS to the LHS and the tech said that although it may work, there could be damage to... I believe he said brakes? So I guess that means it could still work but there could be some internal damage that effects its efficiency or performance.

If you've partially blown an ESC before, what kind of things indicate that something is wrong?

What criteria should I be considering when testing this ESC out?

Being brand new to electric, how do I test to see if the RS functions normally and efficiently?

I need to know soon so I can file a dispute on paypal for selling me a defective unit.
As everyone has said, it is very hard to bench test, you cant pull full trigger or u are likely to damage a rotor.
Best bet is your local club, generally I find clubs more help than shops because they can run the car on the track and have more time to help. Get a spare sensor wire and also a spare cap, ur local radio shack or similar should be able to sell similar cap, I use a 16V 2200uf, very common and very cheap. If you got a spare sensor wire and cap, head to ur local track with ur soldering iron and ask for some help, u should find someone to help out.
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:37 AM   #19798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvlooper View Post
I've got a new RS in a new TC6 chassis with a new Trinity D3 17.5 motor. Once I wired everything up to my 2s Protek lipo and turned it on for testing, everything seemed to work fine. However, when I took it out for a spin, it seemed fairly slow AND cold. The motor barely warms up at all after 5-10 minutes of run time. I realize that a 17.5 motor isn't going to be the fastest thing on the planet, but it was not up to speed with the non-timed cars I had seen at my local track. (My fdr is fairly close to the cars that I'd seen racing)

Anyway, here's my issue. I realized that I had not hooked up the sensor wire from motor to esc when I first ran it. Duh!... However, once I plugged the sensor wire in and turned on the power, the esc did not respond. No lights, chimes, or anything. If I unplug the sensor wire, the esc appears to function normally. The 4th light is on almost constantly with the 1st light flashing once every ten seconds or so. If I plug the sensor cable back in, it is unresponsive.

I'm not sure if I need to do something with the esc to encourage it to accept the sensor connection or if there is something wrong. I removed the endbell on my motor to check on a solder drip I had during wiring and I thought I put it all back together just like it was, but maybe I screwed something up. Not sure.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I may head down to the track tomorrow to see if I can get some help, but I thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks.
Something else i thought of, when you plugged in the sensor wire did you go back to hotwire a reset the settings to "sensored".
Also did you calibrate your RS with your radio end points (throttle/brake) set below 100%. Just about all radio's fail to "lock" onto full throttle unless calibrate just below full and then turn end points/travel on radio back to full after calibration.
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:23 AM   #19799
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As everyone has said, it is very hard to bench test, you cant pull full trigger or u are likely to damage a rotor.
Best bet is your local club, generally I find clubs more help than shops because they can run the car on the track and have more time to help. Get a spare sensor wire and also a spare cap, ur local radio shack or similar should be able to sell similar cap, I use a 16V 2200uf, very common and very cheap. If you got a spare sensor wire and cap, head to ur local track with ur soldering iron and ask for some help, u should find someone to help out.

When I do go to the track which way is best to test, on my own car or his car? I need to know because I dont have my car fully assembled yet.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:07 AM   #19800
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im using RS pro with 212 software.i need setup for my 4.0t motor lrp.i need very good punch & good top speed.or any setup which you recomend. =) pm me
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