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Old 01-07-2009, 06:24 AM   #1966
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Does anyone know the timing on the novak 21.5? What timing should we run with the RS Pro. I know with the hotwire I get a 15 degree boost with 189 software. I am using the car in VTA so if i over time, I cannot just drop teeth on the pinion to get my torque back. I am a complete newb to this whole electric thing, so any advice is appreciated. I think breathing all the indoor nitro fumes have warped my head.
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Old 01-07-2009, 06:32 AM   #1967
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Originally Posted by wyl03 View Post
i've got both - sphere & RSPro - on offroad 2wd & 4wd.

Both have been faultless, for me, so far.

RSPro advantage over Sphere?
- size
- weight
- you can download new software versions by using the hotwire
- can run in hybrid mode therefore allowing you to finish (or even start) a race with a damaged sensor cable
- ease of program (both a pro & con for me) - "pro" because you can adjust via the hotwire interface , "con" because you need to hook it up to a notebook if you want to use the hotwire interface (i classify this as a disadvantage when compared to the Venom, Losi or Quark which use programmable cards). HAVING SAID THAT, u can also adjust the set-up directly on the RSPro by pressing the buttons (exactly the same as sphere)

Disadvantage?
Yet to come across any ..
Thanks for the info. Would you recommend maybe just getting rid of one of the Sphere's for an RS to check it out?

I am happy with the sphere now but am intrigued by the dual mode and hotwire capabilities.
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Old 01-07-2009, 07:06 AM   #1968
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Originally Posted by Adim_X View Post
Does anyone know the timing on the novak 21.5? What timing should we run with the RS Pro. I know with the hotwire I get a 15 degree boost with 189 software. I am using the car in VTA so if i over time, I cannot just drop teeth on the pinion to get my torque back. I am a complete newb to this whole electric thing, so any advice is appreciated. I think breathing all the indoor nitro fumes have warped my head.
I have not messed with the Tekin stuff but with timing it is best to start low and run the car and work your way up. Adding timing can be a good thing but it will come to a point where adding timing will just add heat and no more performance so its best to start low with the timing and do a few runs and just add a little timing each run til you get the best performance and the motor isn't getting too hot.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:55 AM   #1969
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Thanks for the info. Would you recommend maybe just getting rid of one of the Sphere's for an RS to check it out?

I am happy with the sphere now but am intrigued by the dual mode and hotwire capabilities.
That's what I did...now I have 3 Tekins and no Blues
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:21 AM   #1970
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Does anyone know the timing on the novak 21.5? What timing should we run with the RS Pro. I know with the hotwire I get a 15 degree boost with 189 software.
You don't get an automatic 15 degree boost with the 1.89 firmware, From what I gather Randy or Ty explained that the sensors in the motors "see" the rotor a little ahead of time, and it varies from motor to motor depending on the particular motor's internal layout. Some motors sensors can see the rotors coming sooner than others. This triggers the speed control a little earlier than the endbell setting might indicate. It's not a fixed 15 degrees for every motor tho. I'm pretty sure that was how Randy or Ty explained it a few pages back. This means that for two different 17.5's from different manufacturers, you wouldn't necessarily get the same exact actual timing using the same Hotwire settings. Here's the post I'm referring to, from "TeamTekin":

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamTekin
Forget about the 15deg secret stuff. That is not us on purpose. It is the sensors triggering early because they see the magnet coming. It only matters when trying to compare to sensorless timing to be equal.

We want 30 to 35 total timing for boost plus motor setting on spec motors. 40 is pretty extreme and only used in some light torque applications.

Should be the same to set 10 in the motor and 20 boost, or 20 in the motor and 10 boost. However we hear different results and it can be motor dependent. There is no standard for sensors and the sensitivity or the placement. Some are compensating for the early sensor trigger in the motor, most are not. Hard to say what the timing numbers on the motors really mean or how accurate they are.

Start low and work up. If you are over timed it will rip up front, but fade and get hot at the end of the run.

From that info, my VTA strategy would be run max on the boost slider, sensor mode, and drop 7 or 8 teeth on the pinion for the first run. Check lap times and temp, then go up a tooth (or two if it's REAL cool) and check times and temp, keep going up a tooth at a time until the lap times stop getting better, or the temp gets too warm. If you don't find yourself faster than before, drop five degrees or so of boost and try again... It's gonna take some time to find the best setting, your driving style will play a part in it as well, so it's not like one setting will work for everyone with the Novak 21.5 in VTA... the momentum guys who keep the speed up thru the corner will probably like more timing and gear, but the same setting might run hot or not launch off the corners as well for the point and shoot drivers...
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I am using the car in VTA so if i over time, I cannot just drop teeth on the pinion to get my torque back. I am a complete newb to this whole electric thing, so any advice is appreciated. I think breathing all the indoor nitro fumes have warped my head.

From the way I read the VTA rules, you can drop teeth as much as you want. THe VTA rules specify the maximum gearing you can run, but if you crank the timing up, you're free under the rules to back off the gearing as much as you want. For a given car and spur size, the VTA would have a maximum pinion allowable, but you're free to go smaller under the rules.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:35 AM   #1971
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Default start delay

I have 2 of these controlers and a slight delay off the line is apparent on both my controlers Even new software hasnt cured it.Its only thing i hate about my Esc.I dread the finals.
Other wise they are the dogs b******s.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:42 AM   #1972
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Wow, 54.5mm just doesn't sound real for a 17.5...

Just so I'm clear, you're running your Duo in the 20* endbell position, and 18 on the boost slider? And your friend I would assume is running the 10* endbell position and 28 on the boost slider? Is he running in the 54.5 rollout range too?

I'm almost sorry I bought all those giant pinions now...
Hi Trips, I am running the duo in max timing position that I "thought" was 18* and set the speed control to sensored only which I assumed was adding 15* so I only added 5* to the Boost slider.

This 54.5mmpr was on a 55X30 track and when I ran the 74spur and 40 pinion I was on a 65X35 track.

With my friends motor we kept his timing in middle hole and set speed control to sensored only, and added actually 12* on boost slider. He ran at Fastcats with this set-up and ended up with 78mmpr and was very fast with no heat issues or fading.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:46 AM   #1973
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Oh, Mudvayne I saw your post after I answered this one.....I might as well add at the Gate I ran 95mmpr with middle hole timing and version 180 in speed control. BIG difference now.....
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:59 AM   #1974
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jeffb,

Thanks for the details, got some testing to do before the Grand Slam series hits town in two weeks...
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:02 PM   #1975
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Does anyone know what the max physical timing is on the LRP Vector 13.5 motors are? My motor was coming off the track so cool I could carry the car by the motor. I figure I am at least 2 teeth down from where I could be and want to take that in consideration when I update to 189 this week.
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:09 PM   #1976
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Oh, Mudvayne I saw your post after I answered this one.....I might as well add at the Gate I ran 95mmpr with middle hole timing and version 180 in speed control. BIG difference now.....
I ran the 189 version this weekend. Yes, what a BIG difference. I'm thinking of trying 0 timing in the motor and some boost in the speedo this weekend. Any thoughts anyone?
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:29 PM   #1977
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Hey guy, great thoughts all around. To clarify a few things.

Yes motors have an "early read" so to speak that differs from design to design. A good fule of thumb is to use 15 as a figure of timing.

For the Novak's their adjustments limited to 12 degrees. Tekin's are 24, Orions differ from old to new, same goes for the big T. I believe the LRP is 24 also but could be wrong since I haven't played with one is some time.

When figuring out boost to start with(or timing for that matter) make small gearing adjustments every time you add timing. For example if you're running a Tekin motor maxed out at 24 degrees in sensored only mode now, and you then add say 5 degrees of boost I'd like to see the same amount of pinions dropped(64p) as well. 10 on the boost start at 10 to be safe. Gear up until your motor temps and speeds are acceptable.

Make sure to not overtime your setup. If you experience rough low speed operation or a stutter coming out of a tight turn you're most likely over timed and out of the sweet spot. When this occurs I'd recomend removing 5 degrees of timing and going up 1 to 2 pinions(64p).

Tellan: I'd like you to do a factory reset. Re calibrate your radio with a NW setting of 2 led's. Then re check. Also what radio/receiver do you use?
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:49 PM   #1978
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Mudvayne,

Racing at 360 Speedway, I get my butt kicked by Donny Lia on a weekly basis. I think he was the first around here to run 1.89. He told me this past Sunday that he's running his Duo 17.5 at 0 on the endbell, max boost in the RS, and geared shorter. I couldn't pin him down on the exact rollout he's running, but I'm going to try it starting around 72mm and see how it looks.

I did run as high as 90mm rollout with 10 degree at the endbell and little or no boost, so I'm cutting way back on the gearing to avoid cooking the motor. I'll probably wind up a few teeth taller, but I'd rather sneak up on it and keep things cool...

This is 1/12 4 cell by the way.
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Old 01-07-2009, 01:05 PM   #1979
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Tekin, if there any thought to (or does this exist and i haven't found it) of being able to save your settings in a file via HotWire? That way you can go back and forth easily between motors. I would also suggest adding a notes field to that so you can list what motor it was for and the gearing you used. Just think it might be helpful.
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Old 01-07-2009, 01:12 PM   #1980
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Tekin, if there any thought to (or does this exist and i haven't found it) of being able to save your settings in a file via HotWire? That way you can go back and forth easily between motors. I would also suggest adding a notes field to that so you can list what motor it was for and the gearing you used. Just think it might be helpful.
+1

I posted the same thing a week or so ago. This would be an awesome addition.
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