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Old 01-08-2011, 10:18 PM   #19126
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Originally Posted by MattFromSooke View Post
hey guys,

i need a good starting point for a SP 13.5 V3 on 1S in WGT
try this,

35 timing
15 turbo
95 timing advance
.1 turbo delay
3.0 turbo ramp
10000 end rpm
1700 start rpm.

this setup is really fast at my track, and actually just won with it today in 13.5 wgt
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Old 01-08-2011, 10:44 PM   #19127
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Originally Posted by hairy View Post
Well it has happened again......this is the fourth ESC to fail on me since November. they have ALL failed the same way, The ESC lights up but will NOT turn over the motor unless you spin the wheels and then it runs ,but let off the trigger and it won't start the motor without a push. I am very very dissappointed.
What TX are you useing? All LED's lit up, mean no comunication with TX or RX. See if recalibration yout TX. TX maybe loose memory. If you TX uses a memory of vehicles you have, make sure you have the correct address of model.
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Old 01-09-2011, 03:09 AM   #19128
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
factory cap is 330
Wait, you said me to use 1000 cap, if the factory cap is smaller why have i to choose 1000 which is bigger.
Is so confused.

Best regards
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:43 AM   #19129
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Wait, you said me to use 1000 cap, if the factory cap is smaller why have i to choose 1000 which is bigger.
Is so confused.

Best regards
if you broke the factory cap and need one and you have to find one at a electronic store the chances are you wont find a 330 16v cap you will find a 1000 16v cap and this will get you by for the race day.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Krio View Post
The point of the cap is to keep the voltage going to the esc as steady as possible. There is a tiny bit of resistance and impedance in the capacitor that slows how fast it can charge/discharge. The smaller the esr value, the more effective the capacitor. There are several ways to decrease the esr value of a system, but the main two are to add more capacitors/capacity (higher uF) or use better capacitors with lower esr values. The 330 uF cap included has a very low esr value while the 1000 uF cap from the shack does not. However, the larger capacity helps somewhat. The best solution if your esc is on the toasty side is multiple caps with the low esr designation so that you are maintaining the esr, but adding to the capacity. That is why 2 330 uF caps are suggested for hot mod motors.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:34 AM   #19130
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Great post Smoke!
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:51 AM   #19131
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Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
What TX are you useing? All LED's lit up, mean no comunication with TX or RX. See if recalibration yout TX. TX maybe loose memory. If you TX uses a memory of vehicles you have, make sure you have the correct address of model.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairy View Post
This is the third weekend that this has happened: I run an X-ray t2r car with an LRP x-12 17.5. After a couple of runs with the motor coming off the track at 170-180 degrees, the R/S will not turn over the motor when the rotor is in a certain position. If you are familiar with Lrp motors they have strong magnet that keeps the motor from free Wheeling like a Duo. There are five settings or "notches" if you will that the rotor rests on. In two of the five positions When the throttle is pulled on the transmitter the speedo lights up like normal but the motor will not turn without a push.I have tried this speedo with a different LRP motor and a Duo 2 motor no difference, I have tried six different sensor wires and two different receivers.

My settings are as follows
FDR 7.53

Carpet track with good traction and a straight of approx 80ft.
V212
boost 51
turbo 10
Timing 80
Start rpm 4278
End rpm 10000
turbo delay.1
Turbo ramp 2
Cut off 2s
sensored mode
motor direction normal
throttle profile 4
current limit 98
drag brake off
brake strength 100
Reverse speed off
nuetral width 8
push control 20
throttle min and brake min at default setting
this is the problem
it happens to every ESC they have sent me as a replacement and last night there were two more that also failed on other drivers.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:56 AM   #19132
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results of the race.
Qualification was for Tekin.
Place 1, 2, 5, 8, and 9 if I'm right for Tekin.
Finals were also for Tekin.
Place 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 were Tekin.

I won the race from pole.
2 wins and 1 second place.

second race I made a mistake and the nr2 took the first place. I followed him but I couldn't over take him. He was in the first final ad my tail till the finish and he won the 2nd qualification. In the 3rd final he had a bad start and he was 4th but he became 3rd.
So 1 and 2 Tekin combo. 3rd GM combo.
the other Tekin drivers used a Duo 2 and a SPv3.0 motor.

There was 1 LRP driver that made it in the A final but he became 10th. All the others were Tekin and GM.

I go now. I get my car back so I go to pack my stuff and go home.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:59 AM   #19133
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Originally Posted by hairy View Post
this is the problem
it happens to every ESC they have sent me as a replacement and last night there were two more that also failed on other drivers.
You still didn't tell us what TX (radio) you are using...LOL
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:14 AM   #19134
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
if you broke the factory cap and need one and you have to find one at a electronic store the chances are you wont find a 330 16v cap you will find a 1000 16v cap and this will get you by for the race day.
Oh really, sorry to bothering you about my curiosity.
How about i use 2 or 3 180uf caps(TT3518) if i wonder run 10min 3000kv sensorless class race.

Could make some difference or unworthy?

Best regards
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:24 AM   #19135
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
You still didn't tell us what TX (radio) you are using...LOL
Bill it's NOT the radio it IS and has been the ESC,from the Pres of Tekin "it is a broken solder connection at the sensor port". Just so you won't ask again I have Futaba 3pk super magnum radio.
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:16 AM   #19136
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Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Oh really, sorry to bothering you about my curiosity.
How about i use 2 or 3 180uf caps(TT3518) if i wonder run 10min 3000kv sensorless class race.

Could make some difference or unworthy?

Best regards
if you are going to order a new cap just get the one that comes with the rs
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Old 01-09-2011, 03:49 PM   #19137
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Originally Posted by hairy View Post
this is the problem
it happens to every ESC they have sent me as a replacement and last night there were two more that also failed on other drivers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairy View Post
Bill it's NOT the radio it IS and has been the ESC,from the Pres of Tekin "it is a broken solder connection at the sensor port". Just so you won't ask again I have Futaba 3pk super magnum radio.
What ever setting you set it at, or Version If it not comunicating with the TX & RX All LED's on the ESC would be flashing. Try recalibrating the TX to motor.
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Old 01-09-2011, 03:59 PM   #19138
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Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
What ever setting you set it at, or Version If it not comunicating with the TX & RX All LED's on the ESC would be flashing. Try recalibrating the TX to motor.
I DID NOT say all of the led's were flashing .I said they light up like they are supposed to but it will NOT turn over the motor without a push. Don't you guys know how to read?
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:14 PM   #19139
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Originally Posted by hairy View Post
I DID NOT say all of the led's were flashing .I said they light up like they are supposed to but it will NOT turn over the motor without a push. Don't you guys know how to read?
What? Someone else asked you the radio question first...And you didn't respond...LOL
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:35 PM   #19140
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Hey i'm just frustrated that I am having this big a problem with my ESC it has been going on since well before November.They replace each one with a brand new one and after several runs the Esc won't turn the motor over without Me having to spin the wheels and as soon as I let off it won't turn the motor over without having the spin the wheels by hand and when it stops in order to get the tires to turn over I have to spin the tires by hand and then the Esc will keep the power to the motor until i let it stop and then I have to spin the tires by hand to get it to run.
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