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Old 12-18-2010, 06:43 AM   #18961
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Hey guys,

I was trying to setup an RS Pro last night to run Brushed FW-Only w/ Lipo. I had it wired up (ABC to negative on the motor, shared B+) and everytime I put the ESC into calibration mode it would blow the cap. Did this three times.

I'm running 212. Happened with the motor connected and disconnected. Tried to do a factory reset, ensured the ESC was setup for Brushed FW-Only and the LiPo cutoff was working, etc etc. The cap would just blow everytime I tried to calibrate my endpoints.

Was hoping someone would have a clue as to what the issue is.

Thanks!
Try calibrating your radio before you hook the motor up.
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:45 AM   #18962
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Try calibrating your radio before you hook the motor up.
Tried that... as I mentioned, happened with the motor connected and disconnected.
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:53 AM   #18963
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corrected.

Last edited by Cyclone Bender; 12-18-2010 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:28 AM   #18964
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Did you have a diode on the motor? Did you try a different motor?
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Old 12-18-2010, 12:56 PM   #18965
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Need starting point for wgt10 tekin rs + novac 10,5 balastic sensored + 1s lipo AE 10r5 car.

Race tomorrow, but put my car to hotwire first time today. Pc put the newest software on ESC and factory defaults. So have no time to reed all this topic 1200 pages) and find some good start for my case. Track is basketball field size with one straight and lot of small turns. Any help would be grate!!!
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:03 PM   #18966
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Need starting point for wgt10 tekin rs + novac 10,5 balastic sensored + 1s lipo AE 10r5 car.

Race tomorrow, but put my car to hotwire first time today. Pc put the newest software on ESC and factory defaults. So have no time to reed all this topic 1200 pages) and find some good start for my case. Track is basketball field size with one straight and lot of small turns. Any help would be grate!!!
motor around 8-15
timing boost 45
turbo 5
start 3-4k
end 9500
around 32/100 208 tire
may need to gear it down in the 29/30 but its a start
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:15 PM   #18967
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thanks a lot mate !!!!!

What is throttle profile? It's 4 now.

Last edited by McX; 12-18-2010 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 12-18-2010, 04:11 PM   #18968
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Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
Hey guys,

I was trying to setup an RS Pro last night to run Brushed FW-Only w/ Lipo. I had it wired up (ABC to negative on the motor, shared B+) and everytime I put the ESC into calibration mode it would blow the cap. Did this three times.

I'm running 212. Happened with the motor connected and disconnected. Tried to do a factory reset, ensured the ESC was setup for Brushed FW-Only and the LiPo cutoff was working, etc etc. The cap would just blow everytime I tried to calibrate my endpoints.

Was hoping someone would have a clue as to what the issue is.

Thanks!
What motor is it? The cap shouldn't blow at all when applying any power to the motor. I'd bet there's either a short in the motors endbell or you've got a shotky diode mounted?
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:03 AM   #18969
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What motor is it? The cap shouldn't blow at all when applying any power to the motor. I'd bet there's either a short in the motors endbell or you've got a shotky diode mounted?
It was a Trinity 27T spec motor, was sitting on the shelf for several years. The motor did turn out to be a dud, but as I mentioned, it happened whether the motor was connected or not. It seemed really odd, though maybe someone could shed some light on it, i.e. tell me what I was doing wrong.
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:13 AM   #18970
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It shouldn't have happened no motor connected. I'll have to go try that now on the bench monday.

Motor shorted could have caused a huge current spike.

Was this the standard silver cap?
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:20 AM   #18971
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It shouldn't have happened no motor connected. I'll have to go try that now on the bench monday.

Motor shorted could have caused a huge current spike.

Was this the standard silver cap?
Yes, standard silver cap. Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:32 PM   #18972
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Do you guys think a motor can take out an esc if it chassis slaps the ground.

I have lost two tekin esc controllers but right after slapping the ground in buggy. I am just wondering should I toss the motor or battery also... Kinda lost on if it's just random or I am missing something else.

Last thing I want is another speedo going out on me.

Both times the buggy slapped the ground. Same motor. Not sure about battery. Hit ground.. All lights on esc are out but steering will work still.

Thoughts.. I had to buy a new esc on trade in. Put three pieces of tape under the esc this time. But would like some input.

Thanks...
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:53 AM   #18973
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Is there anything metal near the posts? A chassis will flex more in a hit than you think.

In touring car people shouldnt face the solder posts towards the fan/heatsink as they should be on the outside of the car for cooling anyway. But ive seen people set up their cars that way a few times and told them not to.
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Old 12-20-2010, 05:31 AM   #18974
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Is there anything metal near the posts? A chassis will flex more in a hit than you think.

In touring car people shouldnt face the solder posts towards the fan/heatsink as they should be on the outside of the car for cooling anyway. But ive seen people set up their cars that way a few times and told them not to.
It is a B4.1 Buggy. I had the posts pointing towards the front of the car and the wires going back. The T4 and B4 both have the ESC in the same position but on the T4 the posts are outwards.

It was literally slapp the hill and then lights out instantly. But had steering. the ESC is pretty much gone outside of providing power to the other electronics. My truck has never done this before so I want to make sure its not a weakness of the ESC or if something else may be wrong.

But the posts and the esc is clear from other objects. Unless the wires routing over the top can cause the issue.
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Old 12-20-2010, 09:35 AM   #18975
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Tekin will ready release alum case for keep lower temp .
I run Durango DEX410 with Tekin RS Pro and Speed Passion Comp V3 6.5t.

Speedo and motor gets too hot in 10 mins when running offroad indoors. Now I'm looking for a solution to make them run cooler and found this message by RC MARKET. Did Tekin actually release alu case?

Durango is really harsh for speedos 'cause of it's weight, gear diffs and tight fittings. Anyway I'm really happy with RS Pro and would like to use this in future too.
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