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Tekin RS ESC sensored

Tekin RS ESC sensored

Old 11-24-2010, 05:44 PM
  #18466  
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That's the setting I was thinking of. I have a 3PKS and had a similar problem which that fixed. So, from the top, have you:
1. Set your throttle adjust to read correct on the radio.
2. Set the transmitter throttle to reverse
3. Re-calibrated the esc.
4. Checked you don't have "reverse motor" set on hotwire
5. Checked your sensor wire is working (3 feint lights showing on the esc when you rotate the motor)

If all that works, i'd have to say try a different motor if you can, get the same problem, send the esc in for service.
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Old 11-24-2010, 05:46 PM
  #18467  
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The last thing is to set your throttle end-point to, say, 105% and see if that helps. Your radio may not be recognising full throttle consistently
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:25 PM
  #18468  
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Thanks for all the help. I may have expected to much from 30 deg timing, set it to 50 and it came alive. Still not sure why it acted as if it had 50 deg when I set the controller to reverse.

Thanks Again
Tim
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:09 AM
  #18469  
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I have a question about the gearing of the car when I use a 13mm rotor compared with a 12,5mm rotor.
Do I need to gear heavier? so do I need a bigger motor pinion?

I have te Tekin combo and I love it. 13,5 and 10,5t motor.
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:22 AM
  #18470  
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Originally Posted by toptek
I have a question about the gearing of the car when I use a 13mm rotor compared with a 12,5mm rotor.
Do I need to gear heavier? so do I need a bigger motor pinion?

I have te Tekin combo and I love it. 13,5 and 10,5t motor.
Yes, bigger pinion or smaller spur. A larger rotor gives you more torque and less RPM, so for the same speed, you need to gear up.
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:21 AM
  #18471  
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
Yes, bigger pinion or smaller spur. A larger rotor gives you more torque and less RPM, so for the same speed, you need to gear up.
thanks. timing can stay the same?
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:40 AM
  #18472  
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Certain radio's wonder more than others. My old KO helios for example. Even after doing the factor reset calibration deal the radio wouldn't hold my settings when I set everything at 100 and bumped it up to 105 or 110. The only way I was able to make it hold was to set the speedo with the radio at 90% and then bump it all the way to 140%. It might sound extreme but it worked for me and I never had an issue after that. My issue was loosing turbo for no reason at all. This solved everything. Now that I have the DX3R I don't have to go through these extremem measures.
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:44 AM
  #18473  
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Originally Posted by toptek
thanks. timing can stay the same?
Yes...leave the timing the same. I did this recently in off road and tried to leave the gearing the same and played with the speedo settings but I found myself coming back to where I started and just gearing up to get the RPM's back. I'll probably go back to the 12.5 rotor. I only went to the 13mm because we ran on some super hig carpet traction type dirt....LOL We ran smoothie tires The 12.5 rotor should be all that you need but it sounds like you like testing things just like I do
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Old 11-25-2010, 04:30 PM
  #18474  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Yes...leave the timing the same. I did this recently in off road and tried to leave the gearing the same and played with the speedo settings but I found myself coming back to where I started and just gearing up to get the RPM's back. I'll probably go back to the 12.5 rotor. I only went to the 13mm because we ran on some super hig carpet traction type dirt....LOL We ran smoothie tires The 12.5 rotor should be all that you need but it sounds like you like testing things just like I do
thanks. yes I like testing. for the races you arn't allowed to use the 13mm rotor.
I used the 10,5t first but it was spinning his weels.
now I test with the 13,5t. stil one of the fastest cars on the track.

I will play withe the gearing to see wath happens.
I drive this saturday on a small indoor track.
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:57 PM
  #18475  
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Originally Posted by toptek
thanks. yes I like testing. for the races you arn't allowed to use the 13mm rotor.
I used the 10,5t first but it was spinning his weels.
now I test with the 13,5t. stil one of the fastest cars on the track.

I will play withe the gearing to see wath happens.
I drive this saturday on a small indoor track.
I'll go down stairs tomorrow and look at my hotwire settings and post them for you They will be for 2wd buggy running a 13.5 with the 13mm rotor. The only reason I really put the 13mm rotor in the can is because they consider the 13,5 and 10,5 mod motors and the 13mm rotor was allowed in mod motors before.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:31 AM
  #18476  
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Does anyone know if I put my throttle and brake minimum back to 0 would it be the same as 208. I had a great setup on 208 1s but can't get it to feel the same with 212. Work great in my touring car though.
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:18 AM
  #18477  
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[QUOTE=darrenoakley;8261175]Does anyone know if I put my throttle and brake minimum back to 0 would it be the same as 208. I had a great setup on 208 1s but can't get it to feel the same with 212. Work great in my touring car though.[/

Im pretty sure it would be the same if you did that.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:03 AM
  #18478  
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Yes putting both min brake and min throttle to 0 will mimic 208's feel.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:36 PM
  #18479  
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just noticed my compacitor for my Rs has a broken leg. Is there one I can pick up at radioshack to make it work?
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:25 AM
  #18480  
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in a pinch a 16v 1000uf cap will work. Get the TT3520 cap though when you can.
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