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Old 11-08-2010, 12:51 PM   #18166
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Looking for help. I am just getting into 1/12th scale racing just a question on do I need a receiver pack or booster which is better, and how do you hook them up. I tried to read back through as I am sure its been talked about but could not find it. Thanks
I use the HobbyKing voltage booster (less than $5). Works great. Plug it into the battery port on your Rx. I did add an inline switch on the positive side between the 1s LiPo main pack and the booster so that I can turn the whole thing off without disconnecting the main pack. I have the ESC switch in the Off position.

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i like the booster , it is one less thing to worrie about charging
+1. I was using a 2s LiFE pack on my WGT car (switched) plugged into the battery port on the Rx. With an RS Pro, it ate two packs within a week (one ProTek and one Epic). They were charged in between heats on a LiFE capable charger setting at 200mA (only took 70 mAh). The Epic one lasted 4 runs before swelling. Been using the $5 booster for a month without issues.
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:24 PM   #18167
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I use the HobbyKing voltage booster (less than $5). Works great. Plug it into the battery port on your Rx. I did add an inline switch on the positive side between the 1s LiPo main pack and the booster so that I can turn the whole thing off without disconnecting the main pack. I have the ESC switch in the Off position.



+1. I was using a 2s LiFE pack on my WGT car (switched) plugged into the battery port on the Rx. With an RS Pro, it ate two packs within a week (one ProTek and one Epic). They were charged in between heats on a LiFE capable charger setting at 200mA (only took 70 mAh). The Epic one lasted 4 runs before swelling. Been using the $5 booster for a month without issues.
i tried the protek life pack just 1 time, and then went back to a HK booster. i wonder if the charge rate needs to be even lower due to the lack of balancing port?
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:28 PM   #18168
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in my wgt i have a 2s 400 mah wired through the esc and can make 7-8 runs from a fully charged battery but i only do or one days worth
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Old 11-08-2010, 01:54 PM   #18169
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Looking for a setup for WGT with tekin rs and 13.5 motor using 1S
The track is 100 X 45 crc carpet with decent traction
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:18 PM   #18170
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The track is 100 X 45 crc carpet with decent traction
5-10 motor
45-50 timing boost
3k start
8500 end
208-210 tire
38/100 ?
this is close to what i have motor comes off around 110 so there is alot of room to grow
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:19 PM   #18171
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here is my stupid post,this is page 1212
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:28 PM   #18172
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5-10 motor
45-50 timing boost
8500 end
Curiosity... why such a low end RPM setting?
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:31 PM   #18173
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The low end rpm setting forces the boost to apply fully on a shorter Straight.

For my 12th scale 17.5 set up I end around 6900.
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:40 PM   #18174
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The low end rpm setting forces the boost to apply fully on a shorter Straight.

For my 12th scale 17.5 set up I end around 6900.
Hm. I thought boost wasnt ramped like turbo?
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:53 PM   #18175
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Hm. I thought boost wasnt ramped like turbo?
Boost is applied gradually between the start and end RPM, so it is kind of "ramped."
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:40 PM   #18176
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Hm. I thought boost wasnt ramped like turbo?
it is applied every 1k rpm
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:41 PM   #18177
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Boost is applied gradually between the start and end RPM, so it is kind of "ramped."
So, if your end RPM is set at 8000, and your motor revs to 12,000 RPM at the end of the straight, you spend 4000 RPM out of boost?

Im only asking what seems like previously repeated and simplistic questions because i have been setting my end RPM for max RPM of the motor for the last few months, and gearing so the motor is close to topping out at the end of the straight.

I alter the boost and turbo amounts to change how the car feels in the infield, plus the assumed 'mechanical' motor timing to stay at the 60 degree 'cap'. It seems there is still only so much you can do with a given FDR though... as the motors i use seem to like more gear than timing advance on the edge. If it comes to adding 2 to turbo (from 10 to 12) to get what i want, ill drop back to 10 and add a tooth on the pinion.

My FDR is usually higher than what would work for others as well. I might be at a 6.7 or so and others would be 6.3 (17.5). Regardless, the setup rips on the 17.5, 13.5, and 10.5's ive worked with... but they DO run warm (usually 180+).

And yes i know driving style plays a role in motor temps and FDR's. Im no Pro, but im no point-n-shoot type of driver either.

Anyways... just trying to make sure i grasp this concept fully. Im about to try running an 8.5 boosted... and raised my eyebrow when i found its max RPM was 30,100.
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Old 11-08-2010, 04:08 PM   #18178
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Originally Posted by racer357 View Post
The low end rpm setting forces the boost to apply fully on a shorter Straight.

For my 12th scale 17.5 set up I end around 6900.
Agreed when I run 17.5 in my 12th i start at 2500 and finish at 5000. Works really well. I have tried widening the rev range but just not as good. Only tried on our small track though.
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Old 11-08-2010, 04:30 PM   #18179
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track:Speedworld

car xray T3

n***k 17.5 motor timing (25) backed off 5 degrees from stock

2s lipo

tekin rs

gearing 6.34

boost 50
start 2790
end 11000

delay 0

turbo 12
ramp 2

drag brake 15

initial brake 0

initial throttle max

current limit none

motor comes off after every 6min race at 134 degrees F

what can I do for more speed as I must be missing some with that cool motor and no fans?
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:04 PM   #18180
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add 2-3 to boost or turbo,not both
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