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Old 10-21-2010, 12:25 AM   #17746
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Default 208 ->212

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
If you're having a hard time getting your 212 to update do a factory reset on the unit, try again.
Hi Randy

Went back to 208 and I got all the right messages on the screen - but now there is no HotWire communication with the ESC at all any more - and it does not work on battery either. Is there a reset via the buttons?

Regards
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:44 AM   #17747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallyrc View Post
couple q's.. i'm sure this has been asked but the search seems to never work these days.. first.. certainly the default deadband of 56 is not % of total throtle so what is it? a percentage of somethign else? and with deadband in the modern radios should either the radio or esc be set at "0"? also.. are out base setups from 208 a good starting point with 212? excited to give it whirl this weekend..
Good question, anyone know the answer?
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:44 AM   #17748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
If you're having a hard time getting your 212 to update do a factory reset on the unit, try again.
May I know how to 'factory reset'? thanks!

Oh... just re-read the manual and now understand how to factory reset... will try that and upgrade to 212 again.

Last edited by hardmankam; 10-21-2010 at 01:53 AM. Reason: answered my own question
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:08 AM   #17749
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ran 212 tonight, i love the extra hard brakes on 17.5, they seem much stronger.

as for spec mode racing, the 2 led flashing is a little bit much, but perfomance wise I never ran spec before 212, so I also have nothing to complain about

I am very happy with 212 being released on time, thanks!
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:09 AM   #17750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallyrc View Post
couple q's.. i'm sure this has been asked but the search seems to never work these days.. first.. certainly the default deadband of 56 is not % of total throtle so what is it? a percentage of somethign else? and with deadband in the modern radios should either the radio or esc be set at "0"? also.. are out base setups from 208 a good starting point with 212? excited to give it whirl this weekend..
First, yes 208 setups are a good starting point for 212. The first thing you'll want to change are your brakes but you'll have to try that out on the track.

The deadband is not a percentage of anything. It is a more or less arbitrary number. All you need to know is the bigger it is the wider your deadband is, and you should set it to the narrowest you can get and still get a reliable neutral. This will vary depending on the Tx you have and even between different Txs of the same model.

That do you?

Trev
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:25 AM   #17751
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Default upgrade 208 -> 212

Hi Randy

Tried the Factory Reset but this did not do anything. Still no LED on HotWire or Battery any more. Also tried it on a 2nd computer - no luck. Seems the upgrade killed it.

Whats next?

Regards
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Old 10-21-2010, 04:39 AM   #17752
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Originally Posted by twk-b View Post
Ah, so after jumping back into touring car after the summer break, I updated to 208, and setups that used to be pushing the limits temperature wise (150+) are all coming off at 90-100C. B=45 T=10, delay=0.05 ramp=2 5000-9000

I tested both 17.5 and 13.5 with ORCA motors... just a heat sink...

It was a new track layout, so I was unsure on the gearing... I tried a couple teeth each way and my times didnt seem to waiver much either way. Previously with two teeth up, it should have been ready to cook a meal but never over 110.

It seemed there were similar results up and down the pit lane....

No track time between now and race day.. so was hoping to find the follow...

1) With the reduced temperatures are team drivers (and others), making new changes (gearing, RPM gap, etc) to the setups to bring the temps up again, or everyone is just sitting at 100C now in TC? ramp=3 was pretty much off limits from my experience in TC. with the new temps that seems like something worth retesting?

2) With 203 it seemed that boost really spooled up, and was most noticeable in the last 1/3 of the straight almost leaping ahead.... With 208 things seem much more linear which is great, but it doesnt seem to have the same top end.... (b) is this related to "203 level rpm schedules" in 212?

3) What all is recorded with the 2 Custom Profiles? Thottle Profile, drag/push and some other settings also change between classes, are these values stored for each, or shared for all profiles? (Super Stock, Stock, VTA)

I am totally blown away by the temps! Thanks for providing a great product. Keep up the great work!

-b
With cooler air temps you will be able to push the envelope more than you would in the summer heat. There is still a limit to the effective amount of dynamic timing you can use, and stator wire size will be the limit for your motor choice. Motor temp is no longer the only guide you must use.

You should just reach a point where the motor/ESC changes will not net faster lap times... just more heat. I would say leave your RS boost and turbo where they are and slowly come up on the gear to see what happens... check laptimes. Then if you have room for more boost and turbo, come back down on the gear, and slowly come up on both combined... check laptimes.

In certain racing conditions, i dare say you could reach the efficient limit of a 17.5/13.5 and still have 'off' temps.
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:49 AM   #17753
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[QUOTE=rambolin;8102281]Hi Randy

Tried the Factory Reset but this did not do anything. Still no LED on HotWire or Battery any more. Also tried it on a 2nd computer - no luck. Seems the upgrade killed it.

Whats next?

Regards[/QUOTE

Try disconnecting every thing from your ex then power up the tekin with out the sensor wire connnected

Then factory reset

If this works plug everything back in one at a time it may be a servo or fan causing it
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:38 AM   #17754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
First, yes 208 setups are a good starting point for 212. The first thing you'll want to change are your brakes but you'll have to try that out on the track.

The deadband is not a percentage of anything. It is a more or less arbitrary number. All you need to know is the bigger it is the wider your deadband is, and you should set it to the narrowest you can get and still get a reliable neutral. This will vary depending on the Tx you have and even between different Txs of the same model.

That do you?

Trev
now that was a great answer. I've had a rough couple weeks at work. Sorry
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:55 AM   #17755
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[QUOTE=Senna Racing;8102630]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rambolin View Post
Hi Randy

Tried the Factory Reset but this did not do anything. Still no LED on HotWire or Battery any more. Also tried it on a 2nd computer - no luck. Seems the upgrade killed it.

Whats next?

Regards[/QUOTE

Try disconnecting every thing from your ex then power up the tekin with out the sensor wire connnected

Then factory reset

If this works plug everything back in one at a time it may be a servo or fan causing it
Hi Senna Racing

Thanks for your reply. I have now removed the ESC from the car altogether and did try another Reset. Unfortunately still the same.

I have absolute no idea any more but seeking a replacement..

We just updated my son's car and all did work ok on that one. You can believe me, I was very nervous about trying an other one...

Regards, Rambolin
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:00 AM   #17756
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Updates on their own should not render the unit inop. Something must have happened during the update to interupt it causing some file coruption. Unfortunately you've done everything you can do on your end. It will require our "loving hands" to fix it now.
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:05 AM   #17757
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I'm sure Randy and the team may have more thinks to try or help you out

Are you getting any lights at all

Have a close look sometimes they can be very dim

If so put in to calibration mode
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:31 AM   #17758
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Thanks Senna

No lights/LEDs - neither on USB nor on Battery.

I think the software on it is now corrupted beyond.

Regards, Rambolin
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:01 AM   #17759
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If the hotwire doesn't recognize it, and it won't power up via a battery it will require service.

The update must have been interupted or stopped during the event.
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:05 AM   #17760
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I cannot update v208 to v212 on my PC#1. So I have installed v212 on my PC#2 and it works. However, when connecting back on PC#1 with Hotwire v5.2.1 installed, the software still lists v208 as the version to update to (see attachment).

It seems like v208 has not completely uninstall itself on my PC#1. If so, what is the proper procedure to uninstall previous version of the Hotwire? Many thanks!

The main diff b/w PC#1 and PC#2 is:
PC#1: Win7, 64 bit
PC#2: WinXP, 32 bit
Attached Thumbnails
Tekin RS ESC sensored-screen1.jpg  
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