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Old 10-07-2010, 11:57 AM   #17326
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wow,so whats going to happen with cleveland coming up is it going to be a track approval
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:31 PM   #17327
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Hi,

Whats a good fdr to start with for an indoor track running a Redline 13.5t with the stock 12deg motor timing. Track has a straight of 30m and the rest is normaly tight and technical but sometime's slightly different depending on the track layout. At the moment I've set my fdr 7.60 . Mt end rpm is set to 25900 which is the maximum for the Redline (I think ?) Boost is 40 and I've left Turbo at 0.

Do I first get the gearing correct for the infield and then sort the boost out for the straight ?

Am I correct in saying I don't want the boost coming on infield ? so I may have to increase my start rpm to stop this ?

If I need anymore speed on the straight then I may add boost but only if needed ?

Have I got the right idea here
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:11 PM   #17328
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Hi,

Whats a good fdr to start with for an indoor track running a Redline 13.5t with the stock 12deg motor timing. Track has a straight of 30m and the rest is normaly tight and technical but sometime's slightly different depending on the track layout. At the moment I've set my fdr 7.60 . Mt end rpm is set to 25900 which is the maximum for the Redline (I think ?) Boost is 40 and I've left Turbo at 0.

Do I first get the gearing correct for the infield and then sort the boost out for the straight ?

Am I correct in saying I don't want the boost coming on infield ? so I may have to increase my start rpm to stop this ?

If I need anymore speed on the straight then I may add boost but only if needed ?

Have I got the right idea here
Good day!


You have the right idea, what class and car are you running?
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:16 PM   #17329
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I think you're confusing boost and turbo. Boost (the one with start and end RPM) and gearing should be figured out for the infield together. You DO want boost coming in in the infield.

Turbo (the one with a delay and ramp) is the one you want for added speed on the straight. You do NOT want this coming in in the infield.

Of course there are always exceptions, but this is the usual way of doing things.

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Old 10-07-2010, 01:19 PM   #17330
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
wow,so whats going to happen with cleveland coming up is it going to be a track approval
I'm sure it will all be sorted out by Cleveland.

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Old 10-07-2010, 01:32 PM   #17331
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I'm sure it will all be sorted out by Cleveland.

Trev
Just a simple error...its being sorted out now.

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Old 10-07-2010, 01:41 PM   #17332
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
I think you're confusing boost and turbo. Boost (the one with start and end RPM) and gearing should be figured out for the infield together. You DO want boost coming in in the infield.

Turbo (the one with a delay and ramp) is the one you want for added speed on the straight. You do NOT want this coming in in the infield.

Of course there are always exceptions, but this is the usual way of doing things.

Trev
Yeah sorry I meant if I need more on the straight then I add Turbo not boost.

So I do need boost infield ? not just geared for the infield ?

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Good day!


You have the right idea, what class and car are you running?
T3 13.5t
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:56 PM   #17333
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Just a simple error...its being sorted out now.
Glad to hear it. Tekin always takes care of us.

Last edited by syndr0me; 10-07-2010 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:36 PM   #17334
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Yeah sorry I meant if I need more on the straight then I add Turbo not boost.

So I do need boost infield ? not just geared for the infield ?


T3 13.5t
Yes, both gearing and boost for the infield. The gearing, along with the amount of boost and the difference between the start and end RPM will define your punch out of the corners. In fact I move the start RPM when I want to fine tune the amount of punch, leaving the end RPM the same. There are several ways of having the same effect, and all are valid.

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Old 10-07-2010, 02:40 PM   #17335
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Thanks, so is 7.60 ok to start with ?

Do you start with the lowest start rpm, then try the next ect to find which is best ?
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:43 PM   #17336
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I just recieved my Tekin RS Pro, and I put it in the car, and tested it tonight. The track is small and technical, and has a 30m straight.

This is my settings:

Motor: Speed Passion V3 17.5T
FDR: 5.95
Motor Timing: +5 degrees
Drag Brake: 25
Brake Strength: 100
Neutral Width: 10
Throttle Profile: 3
Push Control: Off
Boost: 45
Turbo: 10
Turbo Delay: 0.5
Sensored: On
End RPM: 15000
Start RPM: 5000
Turbo Ramp: 1.0

I started out with 35 boost and 5 turbo - just to get used to onroad again. In my second run I switched to the settings above, and WOW!!! It has so much rip in the infield, but still feels very smooth. And on the straight when the turbo kicks - oh... my... god...

Next time I will switch to a Turbo Delay of 0.3 instead - the turbo kicked in a little bit to late. Other than that, I got the speed I need. And best of all: After 7 minutes, the motor was 40 degrees celcius!

So I am definately staying with Tekin!

One thing though: I am currently running without a capacitor. Normally the long leg on the capacitor is negative, but on the capacitor I got, the drawing on the top said the other way around. So I didn't dare to use it, as I didn't know what was right.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:02 PM   #17337
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If it is the small silver Tekin cap, the negative side is marked in blue on the top of the cap.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:13 PM   #17338
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If it is the small silver Tekin cap, the negative side is marked in blue on the top of the cap.
It is the silver Tekin cap that comes with the RS Pro.
So I should trust the "drawing" on the top, and just ignore the length of the legs?
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:14 PM   #17339
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blue is neg
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:14 PM   #17340
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It is the silver Tekin cap that comes with the RS Pro.
So I should trust the "drawing" on the top, and just ignore the length of the legs?
Yes. All 3 of my RSes have the same cap installed with the blue side lead to "B-".
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