Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tekin RS ESC sensored > Tekin RS ESC sensored

Tekin RS ESC sensored


Old 09-22-2010, 11:40 AM
  #17086  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
hairy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: In the Good ole' U.S.A.
Posts: 2,327
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
IT's actually led's 5 6 7 that will dimmly cycle on/off. This is a feedback of the sensors in the motor. ALL 3 must cycle on/off or the motor has a bad sensor board. Also note that a bad sensor harness will also cause this so swap it out first as it's the cheapest and easiest to do.
so (remember i'm an "old guy) if 5,6&7 light up (faintly) then all is o.k.?
hairy is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 01:07 PM
  #17087  
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,662
Default

Originally Posted by hairy View Post
so (remember i'm an "old guy) if 5,6&7 light up (faintly) then all is o.k.?
That tells you that the ESC can read the signals from sensor board, and that the sensor wire is OK.
CarbonJoe is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 01:16 PM
  #17088  
NDZ
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Holland
Posts: 50
Default problems with Novak Smart Boost?

Hi guys,

A friend of mine's car (CRC GEN XL on 1S) almost went up in flames tonight when the smart boost made a short circuit.
Has anybody had any troubles with the Tekin in combination with 1S lipo and smart boost? Or was it just bad luck?
One of the 3 capacitors broke down (so it seemed).

Gr. Niels
NDZ is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 01:19 PM
  #17089  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,920
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by NDZ View Post
Hi guys,

A friend of mine's car (CRC GEN XL on 1S) almost went up in flames tonight when the smart boost made a short circuit.
Has anybody had any troubles with the Tekin in combination with 1S lipo and smart boost? Or was it just bad luck?
One of the 3 capacitors broke down (so it seemed).

Gr. Niels
who was it Niels ??

hope it didn't damage your carpet at MACH
sidecarphil1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 01:25 PM
  #17090  
NDZ
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Holland
Posts: 50
Default

Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
who was it Niels ??

hope it didn't damage your carpet at MACH
Hi Phil, the carpet is quit allright. The car went of the track due to the short circuit.

Gr. Niels
NDZ is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 02:08 PM
  #17091  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern & Central Illinois
Posts: 4,337
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I stopped using the Smart Boost because it felt too inconsistant. Replacing it with a very small 220mah LiFe Rx pack was the best move. Full power to the servo and radio and the LiPo cutoff of the Tekin RS (switched on). In my opinion, the best of both worlds and no Novak problems to boot.
AreCee is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 02:24 PM
  #17092  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 9,045
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bubblehead View Post
Should I remove that amount of timing from my RS settings? I matched the FDR of most of the racers at the track, my RS settings are about the same and my car is much slower the only difference is Tekin 17.5.
What are your complete settings and FDR? Adding a little motor timing has always done the trick for me. One other thing people seem to forget is to run a fan on the motor. Keeping the motor as cool as possible is key.
STLNLST is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 03:10 PM
  #17093  
Tech Addict
 
Bubblehead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Portsmouth, VA
Posts: 708
Default

Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
What are your complete settings and FDR? Adding a little motor timing has always done the trick for me. One other thing people seem to forget is to run a fan on the motor. Keeping the motor as cool as possible is key.
Hot Bodies Cyclone (2.4375 IR) after balancing chassis 1480g. I not why I had to add that much weight 126g, no fan on motor, 17.5 Redline. I have tried just about everyone's profile at the track. FDR this weekend 1st round 6.5, 2nd 6.9, 3rd 6.4.

Boost: 45
Turbo: 14
Start: 4748
End: 13003
Turbo Ramp: 3
Throttle Profile: 3
Neutral Width: 10
Motor Timing: 0
Bubblehead is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 05:10 PM
  #17094  
Tech Regular
 
casino57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sandwich,Il.
Posts: 498
Default

Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
With the ESC on, turn the motor by hand. LEDs 5, 6, and 7 will come on dimly in sequence as the signal from each pole's sensor "reads" the rotor magnet. If you don't see them keep illuminating as you continue turning the motor by hand, then either the ESC, sensor board, or sensor wire is bad.
Thanks for all the help...I'm old school too...i need to get out more I guess...Thanks alot guys!
casino57 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 05:31 PM
  #17095  
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,662
Default

And if the three LEDs don't light up in a repeating sequence as you continue turning the motor, try the following:

Remove and re-seat the sensor wire at both ends. Try the test again.
If no joy, try a different sensor wire. (cheapest and easiest fix).
Try a known good motor with original sensor wire.
Try known good motor with different sensor wire.
CarbonJoe is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2010, 05:34 PM
  #17096  
Tech Regular
 
casino57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sandwich,Il.
Posts: 498
Default

Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
With the ESC on, turn the motor by hand. LEDs 5, 6, and 7 will come on dimly in sequence as the signal from each pole's sensor "reads" the rotor magnet. If you don't see them keep illuminating as you continue turning the motor by hand, then either the ESC, sensor board, or sensor wire is bad.
Thanks alot for all the help...it seems led 5, 6, and 7 do light...maybe a sensor is intermittently kicking in and out? I changed sensor wires ..did the same thing.
casino57 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2010, 09:04 AM
  #17097  
Team Tekin
iTrader: (6)
 
Randy_Pike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Norcal
Posts: 9,768
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Sensors can drop during a run so the only test is to try another motor.
Randy_Pike is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2010, 12:51 PM
  #17098  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (152)
 
Krio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Posts: 5,392
Trader Rating: 152 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Sensors can drop during a run so the only test is to try another motor.
+1

I've had 2 motors in the past 3 years drop their sensors when the motor would start to warm up a couple minutes into a run.
Krio is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2010, 05:10 PM
  #17099  
Tech Regular
 
casino57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sandwich,Il.
Posts: 498
Default

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Sensors can drop during a run so the only test is to try another motor.
Thanks alot for all the help...I'll try another motor on the track this weekend.
casino57 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2010, 08:43 PM
  #17100  
Tech Master
 
wingman2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tewkesbury, UK via Plymouth, UK.
Posts: 1,259
Default

Hi guys, I have just uploaded the new software to the RS Pro in my 1/12th car, and just wanted know a 'base' setting for the speedo using a 10.5 motor in the car. Got it running really sweet with the 203 software, so could anyone help me out getting going with the 208 software, and then I can fine tune from there. Thanks very much in advance! Cheers.
wingman2 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Terms of Service