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Old 09-22-2010, 12:40 PM   #17086
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
IT's actually led's 5 6 7 that will dimmly cycle on/off. This is a feedback of the sensors in the motor. ALL 3 must cycle on/off or the motor has a bad sensor board. Also note that a bad sensor harness will also cause this so swap it out first as it's the cheapest and easiest to do.
so (remember i'm an "old guy) if 5,6&7 light up (faintly) then all is o.k.?
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:07 PM   #17087
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so (remember i'm an "old guy) if 5,6&7 light up (faintly) then all is o.k.?
That tells you that the ESC can read the signals from sensor board, and that the sensor wire is OK.
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:16 PM   #17088
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Default problems with Novak Smart Boost?

Hi guys,

A friend of mine's car (CRC GEN XL on 1S) almost went up in flames tonight when the smart boost made a short circuit.
Has anybody had any troubles with the Tekin in combination with 1S lipo and smart boost? Or was it just bad luck?
One of the 3 capacitors broke down (so it seemed).

Gr. Niels
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:19 PM   #17089
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Hi guys,

A friend of mine's car (CRC GEN XL on 1S) almost went up in flames tonight when the smart boost made a short circuit.
Has anybody had any troubles with the Tekin in combination with 1S lipo and smart boost? Or was it just bad luck?
One of the 3 capacitors broke down (so it seemed).

Gr. Niels
who was it Niels ??

hope it didn't damage your carpet at MACH
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:25 PM   #17090
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who was it Niels ??

hope it didn't damage your carpet at MACH
Hi Phil, the carpet is quit allright. The car went of the track due to the short circuit.

Gr. Niels
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Old 09-22-2010, 03:08 PM   #17091
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I stopped using the Smart Boost because it felt too inconsistant. Replacing it with a very small 220mah LiFe Rx pack was the best move. Full power to the servo and radio and the LiPo cutoff of the Tekin RS (switched on). In my opinion, the best of both worlds and no Novak problems to boot.
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Old 09-22-2010, 03:24 PM   #17092
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Should I remove that amount of timing from my RS settings? I matched the FDR of most of the racers at the track, my RS settings are about the same and my car is much slower the only difference is Tekin 17.5.
What are your complete settings and FDR? Adding a little motor timing has always done the trick for me. One other thing people seem to forget is to run a fan on the motor. Keeping the motor as cool as possible is key.
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Old 09-22-2010, 04:10 PM   #17093
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What are your complete settings and FDR? Adding a little motor timing has always done the trick for me. One other thing people seem to forget is to run a fan on the motor. Keeping the motor as cool as possible is key.
Hot Bodies Cyclone (2.4375 IR) after balancing chassis 1480g. I not why I had to add that much weight 126g, no fan on motor, 17.5 Redline. I have tried just about everyone's profile at the track. FDR this weekend 1st round 6.5, 2nd 6.9, 3rd 6.4.

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Old 09-22-2010, 06:10 PM   #17094
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With the ESC on, turn the motor by hand. LEDs 5, 6, and 7 will come on dimly in sequence as the signal from each pole's sensor "reads" the rotor magnet. If you don't see them keep illuminating as you continue turning the motor by hand, then either the ESC, sensor board, or sensor wire is bad.
Thanks for all the help...I'm old school too...i need to get out more I guess...Thanks alot guys!
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:31 PM   #17095
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And if the three LEDs don't light up in a repeating sequence as you continue turning the motor, try the following:

Remove and re-seat the sensor wire at both ends. Try the test again.
If no joy, try a different sensor wire. (cheapest and easiest fix).
Try a known good motor with original sensor wire.
Try known good motor with different sensor wire.
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:34 PM   #17096
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
With the ESC on, turn the motor by hand. LEDs 5, 6, and 7 will come on dimly in sequence as the signal from each pole's sensor "reads" the rotor magnet. If you don't see them keep illuminating as you continue turning the motor by hand, then either the ESC, sensor board, or sensor wire is bad.
Thanks alot for all the help...it seems led 5, 6, and 7 do light...maybe a sensor is intermittently kicking in and out? I changed sensor wires ..did the same thing.
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:04 AM   #17097
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Sensors can drop during a run so the only test is to try another motor.
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:51 PM   #17098
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Sensors can drop during a run so the only test is to try another motor.
+1

I've had 2 motors in the past 3 years drop their sensors when the motor would start to warm up a couple minutes into a run.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:10 PM   #17099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Sensors can drop during a run so the only test is to try another motor.
Thanks alot for all the help...I'll try another motor on the track this weekend.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:43 PM   #17100
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Hi guys, I have just uploaded the new software to the RS Pro in my 1/12th car, and just wanted know a 'base' setting for the speedo using a 10.5 motor in the car. Got it running really sweet with the 203 software, so could anyone help me out getting going with the 208 software, and then I can fine tune from there. Thanks very much in advance! Cheers.
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