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Old 12-15-2008, 08:21 PM   #1696
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Looks like Quark is using the connector idea that I posted on the Tekin Forums six months back. I wished Tekin would have given it a go for replacing those slotted post.

http://forum.teamtekin.com/phpbb3/vi...php?f=9&t=1766
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...esc-quark.html
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:51 PM   #1697
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**LAUGH** - Looking at that link for ★NEW PLASMA PRO ESC BY QUARK★

It had more power than Quark MK03, less size, less weight!!

Man that thing is a monster, compared to the RS
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:00 AM   #1698
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It has the option to use heatsink and fan, something RS lacks. For using it on our huge tracks with 4.5-3.5 motors it's a needed optional part as after a while esc stops producing power due to heat.
I have tried to put a fan, but didn't work as good as if it was a heatsink and a fan on it
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:29 AM   #1699
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In general if the esc doesn't thermal the lack of speed in a brushless system will be the motor. If the motor gets hot the magnets lose strength and therefore power.

The RS Pro has more fet's than any competition esc on the market today. In an extremem situation such as the one you speak of we recomend the use of two of our RS caps as close to the esc as possible, with a small fan blowing onto the solder posts.

This is a picture of one of our Team Drivers Jason Moberly's TC5.
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Tekin RS ESC sensored-rsp_fan2.jpg  
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:35 AM   #1700
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I use larger cap than the one provided, but haven't cut the cables. Will do it next time.
Well what I did was for cooling was I cut a lexan in shape Γ and at the top I put the fan blowing from the top to the esc solders.
Due to heat esc double tape went off, no matter what tape I used to exclude the possibility of using a faulty one.
First 2 minutes car was a rocket, after that it was slower and slower


Late January I'll compete at the indoor EC, so hopefully will not have such issues as track is 30m long isntead of the 60m or 100m
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:40 AM   #1701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Ive seen around 200F in brushed motors but it aint good!

I read something like non-sintered motors you dont want to go any higher than about 150F while sintered motors you can go a lot higher (although i like to have my motor around 160F).
yes on bonded rotors no more than 150! bad idea!

the last season i race a brushed motor in a toruing outside i was racing a XX motor from epic against 13.5s, we had a series with two hobbytowns in my area, on the smaller of the two the brushed motor kept up just fine, just had to rebuild a bunch ( im ok with doing that ) but on the bigger track we had to gear em way too high, i pulled a motor off at 250 on the can and 350 on the arm. im betting if i would have parked it and needed to take off it would have smoked

when do we think there will be a complete public release on 189?
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:05 PM   #1702
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The closer the cap is to the power cap is to the battery leads on the esc the better.

I prefer to use Shoe Goo on my carbon fiber chassis to secure the esc. It doesn't come off with any heat.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:11 PM   #1703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The closer the cap is to the power cap is to the battery leads on the esc the better.

I prefer to use Shoe Goo on my carbon fiber chassis to secure the esc. It doesn't come off with any heat.
I use shoe goo too. You can put a tiny amount of shoe goo and really squeaze it out from under the esc. With such a thin barrier, more heat can be transfered to the chassis as well (The bottom of my B44 is quite warm afterwards)
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:38 PM   #1704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
I prefer to use Shoe Goo on my carbon fiber chassis to secure the esc. It doesn't come off with any heat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krio View Post
I use shoe goo too. You can put a tiny amount of shoe goo and really squeaze it out from under the esc. With such a thin barrier, more heat can be transfered to the chassis as well (The bottom of my B44 is quite warm afterwards)
Sounds like a good idea. Is it still easy enough to remove it when needed? Slide a razor blade in there or something?
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:04 PM   #1705
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Its a little harder to remove, but not too bad. I hardly ever move esc's so I'm just happy I don't have to re-tape them every 2 weeks.
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:31 PM   #1706
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Sorry if this has been asked before.
After some research, I have decided to purchase a RS ESC + Redline 17.5 for my 1/12 scale.
Do I want the RS or RS Pro for 4 cell battery packs?

Thanks
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:44 PM   #1707
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You should be fine with the standard RS in 1/12 scale 17.5 4 cell. I have the RS Pro and I am considering trying the standard RS for less weight and a lower profile. They both have the same adjustments, the only difference is motor limit.
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:47 PM   #1708
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ok, thanks.
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:36 PM   #1709
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what is the capacitor specs for the tekin?

I'm just wanting to know if the caps I have in my pit box are worthy enough to be on a tekin. 4-cell 13.5 Motor

Ultra Low ESR Cap.
6.3V 3300uf ESR 0.0011 mOhm , Max 3A ripple Current
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:40 AM   #1710
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Do the Redline motors use Novak rotors?
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