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Tekin RS ESC sensored

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Old 09-07-2010, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne View Post
Once they want to go faster, they switch to a profile from the Tekin website and they have more power - at no cost! No motor to buy, no new speedo, nothing!
But we all know that the new ones will always want to start out fast.
I love to play around with timing and such, but I also look back with joy on when we all ran SPX's and the speed were almost identical. Those were the days. It was about the car setup and keeping up the speed through the corners.

I don't think this thread is the right place to discuss this, but here is my opinion:

Instead of having a stock (21.5T) and a superstock (17.5T) (these classes are from Denmark), I think it should be stock (17.5T no-boost - ROAR Timing-0) and superstock (17.5T boosted).

This way you don't have to buy a new motor, when switching class. And if you buy a decent ESC to start with (Tekin ) you don't even have to buy a new ESC.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:40 PM
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quite pointless to discus motor rules online with people from all over the world.
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:03 PM
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Default 17.5 novak ballistic

Hey there guys, just after a setup for a Novak ballistic 17.5, What should I set the motor end bell timing at? fdr is 6.5 on a fast track with a long back straight, any ideas would be awesome.

Cheers Scott
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hijinx View Post
Hey there guys, just after a setup for a Novak ballistic 17.5, What should I set the motor end bell timing at? fdr is 6.5 on a fast track with a long back straight, any ideas would be awesome.

Cheers Scott
leave it on 30 or N. ballistic motors prefer a high start rpm and gearing in the 5.0 to 5.6 range
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:23 PM
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Has anyone tried running a higher turn mod motor (6.5-8.5) boosted against a 4 turn with no boost in a TC? How do they compare? I'm just looking for something that has the top end speed without having to control all the rip out of the corner. What speed control parameters did you use?

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Old 09-07-2010, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Has anyone tried running a higher turn mod motor (6.5-8.5) boosted against a 4 turn with no boost? How do they compare? I'm just looking for something that has the top end speed without having to control all the rip out of the corner. How speed control parameters did you use?
I raced with an LRP X12-octa 6.5 in 12th mod at the Roar Nationals in NorCal
Seemed to work out just fine.
Very smooth off the corners, with plenty of rip down the straights.
Motor temps were around 125f all week.
TQ booster and all

Don't know about TC mod though, probably not an option there.
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Has anyone tried running a higher turn mod motor (6.5-8.5) boosted against a 4 turn with no boost in a TC? How do they compare? I'm just looking for something that has the top end speed without having to control all the rip out of the corner. What speed control parameters did you use?
I know a few who did this for that reason this summer outdoors. It takes a pretty big straight, like 200+ to see a difference.
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
But we all know that the new ones will always want to start out fast.
I love to play around with timing and such, but I also look back with joy on when we all ran SPX's and the speed were almost identical. Those were the days. It was about the car setup and keeping up the speed through the corners.

I don't think this thread is the right place to discuss this, but here is my opinion:

Instead of having a stock (21.5T) and a superstock (17.5T) (these classes are from Denmark), I think it should be stock (17.5T no-boost - ROAR Timing-0) and superstock (17.5T boosted).

This way you don't have to buy a new motor, when switching class. And if you buy a decent ESC to start with (Tekin ) you don't even have to buy a new ESC.
For a while at our track everyone ran Tekin and speed were almost identical. The difference was that if you didn't want to take 30 minutes to learn how a Tekin worked, your speedo setup probably wasn't quite as fast as the next guy.

Nowadays, like I said on the last page, there are a lot of speedos on par with the Tekin and some of us have branched out to other speedos just to be different. They are all on pace.

By the way, ROAR is doing exactly what you said this year. Stock is 17.5 non-boosted, Sportsman is 17.5 boosted, and Expert is open mod.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:11 AM
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By the way, ROAR is doing exactly what you said this year. Stock is 17.5 non-boosted, Sportsman is 17.5 boosted, and Expert is open mod.[/QUOTE]

T.j i thought stock was boosted and sportsman was not
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:29 AM
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I get the two mixed up
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
By the way, ROAR is doing exactly what you said this year. Stock is 17.5 non-boosted, Sportsman is 17.5 boosted, and Expert is open mod.
Great! Unfortunately we don't use ROAR rules here in Denmark, and DASU (the Danish "ROAR-counterpart") are very weird sometimes (we still ran NiMH-batteries last year).
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ed517 View Post
leave it on 30 or N. ballistic motors prefer a high start rpm and gearing in the 5.0 to 5.6 range
Thanks for you help mate I'll give it a go.
Any ideas on the RS settings for the 17.5 novak ballistic motor?
Cheers Scott
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Damit View Post
I Bought the new R1 Pro, tried almost every BL motor available with no success, I'm sure they named the revised version RS (Rat Shit).
Stick with Novak or try the new SP GT1.1, it will work first time every time.
Mate you need your head checked or need to learn how to drive.. How can you say that considering tekin would have never released it if they had no success with it.... Its all about what someone wants......
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:47 AM
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What's the best way to clean dust inside a speed control with out damaging anything?

thanks David
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
What's the best way to clean dust inside a speed control with out damaging anything?

thanks David
David I worked here in Australia on a re manufacturing line of electronic components and you can do it alot of ways... But make sure static electricity is the last thing that comes in contact with the speedie. You can even go as far as using warm soapy water to clean and then compressed air to dry... Just make sure its completely dry before putting it all back together and powering it up. You can also go to a electronics shop ( I am not sure what you have where you are) and buy a circuit board cleaner which is in a pressure pack can and spray all over the speedie and all its components and again make sure its dry before putting it back together. Its a alcohol based product that is cold so make sure you dont put it straight on hot components either...
Its a very good product and we used gallons of the stuff to clean rust, solder residue (flux) to dirt and dust. It doesnt corrode anything as thats what the stuff was designed for.
Good luck
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