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Old 12-09-2008, 10:57 PM   #1621
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just installed the 189 software. the boost feature is nice. i set it to max just to mess around with the tires up in the air and wow talk about some RPM. I am running a Speedpassion 13.5 in my TC so the timing is fixed at 0 degrees anybody running the boost feature have a suggestion and where to start with the boost?
I doubt the SP is set at 0deg even if it says so on the sticker. We do need to figure out where the motors are set when not adjustable so we can suggest a boost to add.

Pull the rotor out and look at the sensor location. They should be near a slot. If they are centered in the slot it is set at 30deg. If it is left of the slot by 5, 10 or 15deg, that is how much less than 30deg it is. If it is really set at 0deg it will be 30deg to the left of the slot.

FYI our motor adjust from 0 to 24deg. So we adjust to 6deg short of the slot center for max timing.

We are finding that a total of motor physical timing and boost of about 30 to 40 is good. Up to 40 with lighter loads and the slower motors like 17.5 and closer to 30 or 35 in most cases.

THE EXTRA RPM REQUIRES REDUCING THE GEARING. If you are over the top it will be a missle for a few minutes and then fade off. Temps can skyrocket in the motor quickly when it fades. Like always start low and work back up.

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Old 12-09-2008, 11:34 PM   #1622
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Can someone tell me when exactly boost kicks in? Does it get activated at full throttle?
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Old 12-09-2008, 11:39 PM   #1623
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When you say use 30-40 for the boost do you mean set the slide bar on the Hotwire there, or set the Hotwire close to max and it equates to 30-40 degrees?
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:03 AM   #1624
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What about the guy who live in UK? I email you, but I do not know if there is team driver in uk.. .
Aye there is me, DCM, Russ... where abouts are you and where do you race?
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:07 AM   #1625
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When you say use 30-40 for the boost do you mean set the slide bar on the Hotwire there, or set the Hotwire close to max and it equates to 30-40 degrees?
He said 30 - 40 total timing, so that's your motor's timing plus the boost setting. Funny enough I ended up with 39 degrees this week end without knowing about this...
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:06 AM   #1626
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When you say use 30-40 for the boost do you mean set the slide bar on the Hotwire there, or set the Hotwire close to max and it equates to 30-40 degrees?
I believe the max setting on the slider bar is 45 degrees. I run mine at max and the motor timing at 0. I used this setting with my 17.5 and 13.5 at the US Indoorchamps and had PLENTY of speed down the staright and LOTS of infield speed when geared properly. With that much timing with a 17.5 motor I had to gear it down to a 3.06" roll out on a large track. In 13.5 I was at 42-88 with 1.68" rear tires.
-Wayne
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:21 AM   #1627
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Max setting is 30 degrees. I would always recommend timing the motor to the max and adding less timing boost just because I believe it's better to have most of the timing in hardware rather than software. saying that Tekin have done a great job on the software side.
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Old 12-10-2008, 07:39 AM   #1628
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I...
Pull the rotor out and look at the sensor location. They should be near a slot. If they are centered in the slot it is set at 30deg. If it is left of the slot by 5, 10 or 15deg, that is how much less than 30deg it is. If it is really set at 0deg it will be 30deg to the left of the slot....
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Very Helpful info, thanks.
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:28 AM   #1629
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Originally Posted by itchynads View Post
Can someone tell me when exactly boost kicks in? Does it get activated at full throttle?
0 to full throttle you've got boost when it's active in the ESC.
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:00 AM   #1630
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Any ballpark ideas on where to run the boost on a Novak 13.5?
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:07 PM   #1631
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Originally Posted by TRF415boy View Post
Max setting is 30 degrees. I would always recommend timing the motor to the max and adding less timing boost just because I believe it's better to have most of the timing in hardware rather than software. saying that Tekin have done a great job on the software side.
Is that with the boost software? I thought it was 45 total in the speedo with the boost. I tried setting the motor at max and speedo low and on a dyno and the power out put was 73 watts at a 25 amp load, when I went the other way the power out put was higher, 77 watts.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:52 PM   #1632
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I tired reversing it all with both radios. For the record my radio is a DX3R and the radio with the car is a KO EX10 Helios, neither worked.
You can unplug the motor, turn on the unit and move the trigger around until you find the nuetral it wants to initialize (probably a little throttle).

Once initialized you can move the trigger and see what signal we are seeing. If you see all 7 leds lit at half throttle the epa may be too high. If you see half throttle (4 leds) at full trigger the epa may be too low. If full trigger is close to full throttle we should accept it fine.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:54 PM   #1633
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Ok guys well I have an small issues with a buddy's RS ESC. When I turn the car on all the led's light up really but are really dim. I tried downgrading the ESC to a older version then back up to the latest and it still does not work. If I hold the mode button when the 7 dim led's are on it will ramp up one time then go back to nothing. I also get an error message when I try to apply new settings on my hot wire. Any ideas?
If the unit powers up normal with the sensor plug out, but when the sensor plug is in it lights odd leds and freezes or lights all the leds dimly... Then there is a diode on the edge of the board that broke off or has a cracked solder joint. However it should still run normal in sensorless.

Also make sure a button is not stuck down.

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Old 12-10-2008, 05:54 PM   #1634
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I believe the max setting on the slider bar is 45 degrees. I run mine at max and the motor timing at 0. I used this setting with my 17.5 and 13.5 at the US Indoorchamps and had PLENTY of speed down the staright and LOTS of infield speed when geared properly. With that much timing with a 17.5 motor I had to gear it down to a 3.06" roll out on a large track. In 13.5 I was at 42-88 with 1.68" rear tires.
-Wayne
You are both right. The boost max setting is 30deg. Unfortunately there is a secret 15deg extra timing in sensored mode that makes it act like 45deg. We try not to mention this because it confuses people. It only matters when comparing sensorless 30deg to sensored 30deg. They do not perform the same because the sensored 30deg acts like 45deg...cats out of the bag now.

The sensor sees the magnet coming and triggers about 15deg before it actually gets there. This can vary with different motors, sensor sensitivity, rotor strength, rpm..... So it is hard to compare to motors and really ever have equal timing in sensored mode. In sensorless (dual mode) all motors have the same and accurate timing. That is why we still like sensorless for mod motors where timing changes can have big effects and it is critical for multi pole motor like we are using in 1/8 scale.

Forget the secret 15deg and set the TOTAL of motor physical timing and boost setting to 30 to 40, gear back and work back up.

Last edited by Tekin Prez; 12-10-2008 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:56 PM   #1635
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Any ballpark ideas on where to run the boost on a Novak 13.5?
The Novak only adjust to about 12 deg of timing. So add 18 boost to be at 30 total.

Feigao based motors typically adjust to 30deg of timing. When set at max they only need 10 boost to be 40 total. So maybe more like 5 boost for most setups.

Not sure where all the fixed timing motors are set.

Tekin motors adjust to 24deg of timing. You do the math

REDUCE GEARING WHEN ADDING BOOST!
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