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Old 07-29-2010, 01:40 PM   #16081
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Stock should be about carrying speed and consistent laps instead of point and shoot. We think intelligent timing and the right motor can provide the right power curve for true stock racing and bring back the finesse.

Tekin Prez

I love this part of your post and could not agree more.

Proud owner of a new RS and Redline 17.5

PS did i see you @ SIR's 24hr enduro?
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:44 PM   #16082
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I love this part of your post and could not agree more.

Proud owner of a new RS and Redline 17.5

PS did i see you @ SIR's 24hr enduro?
I second that motion.
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:55 PM   #16083
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has anyone figured out the weird drag brake effect even though some of us are running push and drag brake is off? even just letting up on the throttle partially seems to brake the motor..
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:17 PM   #16084
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has anyone figured out the weird drag brake effect even though some of us are running push and drag brake is off? even just letting up on the throttle partially seems to brake the motor..

I noticed the same thing but have been working on other things and havent had time to try different settings.
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:21 PM   #16085
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has anyone figured out the weird drag brake effect even though some of us are running push and drag brake is off? even just letting up on the throttle partially seems to brake the motor..
I had this very same problem, I just bought a new nosram x12 10.5 motor and used it for the 1st time last weekend. When I let off the throttle it seemed like I was running a lot of drag brake but I had turned this off. I ended up running push control to stop it. Is this some kind of fault in the new 208 software ???
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:26 PM   #16086
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has anyone figured out the weird drag brake effect even though some of us are running push and drag brake is off? even just letting up on the throttle partially seems to brake the motor..
drag brake seem to be stronger with 208
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:56 PM   #16087
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I had this very same problem, I just bought a new nosram x12 10.5 motor and used it for the 1st time last weekend. When I let off the throttle it seemed like I was running a lot of drag brake but I had turned this off. I ended up running push control to stop it. Is this some kind of fault in the new 208 software ???
AFAIK the X12 series have VERY strong magnets and because of that they have some built-in "drag-brake"-effect. A lot of people use push to make it behave like a normal motor.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:19 PM   #16088
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AFAIK the X12 series have VERY strong magnets and because of that they have some built-in "drag-brake"-effect. A lot of people use push to make it behave like a normal motor.
+1

I run little to no drag breaks with my X12.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:31 PM   #16089
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Everyone is arguing again about stock. I don't think they made a stock spec mode because they "tekin" wanted to, it is because the governing bodies in RC in this case ROAR demanded it. Now stock is split into Stock spec which is no timing, like it was before. And Super stock which is dynamic timing advance. I personally think that 13.5 should be eliminated as super stock as it is as fast in most cases as mod.

The other way that the ROAR could have limited a stock class would have been to make a 21.5 or 25.5 the new stock motor. This would have slowed down everyone. But people would still be able to make them go faster with the dynamic timing adjustments.

The argument that stock is too fast is kind of silly. As I know from racing in the brushed days we were always trying to make things faster. The difference now is there is almost no up front investment to have the fasted car on the track. You no longer need the motor guy making tweeks to your motor before you run. Lipos have made batter power available to everyone. So now joe nobody and come to a big race and be as fast as the sponsored drivers for about half of what it would have cost him ten years ago to compete at the same level. And what kills me is that everyone is pissed about it.

I hear at least once a week how advanced timing speed controls are killing the hobby. Really? I don't see that. The only thing that I see killing the hobby is bunch of whinny people that discourage other from getting into TC or other onroad stuff because everything is now "too fast". If it is too fast for you then slow down. Learn to drive and set up your car. You wouldn't be at the front of the pack anyway. So being a little slower around the track doesn't make any difference. Plus, if you know anything about racing you understand the slow is fast principle. And I don't care how fast you are on the straight if you can't drive through the infield you will lose.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:57 PM   #16090
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
drag brake seem to be stronger with 208
He doesn't have drag brake, in fact he was running push.

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Originally Posted by Nilks View Post
AFAIK the X12 series have VERY strong magnets and because of that they have some built-in "drag-brake"-effect. A lot of people use push to make it behave like a normal motor.
tallyrc is running a Duo2 which has very little "drag brake effect".

Jason, what FDR were you running last night?
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:05 PM   #16091
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He doesn't have drag brake, in fact he was running push.



tallyrc is running a Duo2 which has very little "drag brake effect".

Jason, what FDR were you running last night?
i just re read it,when adding throttle just a little you could be taking push off and finding a more center throttle position causing the motor to drag,that could be the funny issue
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Old 07-29-2010, 07:46 PM   #16092
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I have now put the telemitry rx into my pro 10 car and a 300 rx into the touring car with the Tekin RS. The pro 10 bec voltage reading is 6.3 with the GTB and when it was with the Tekin it was fluctuating from 5.8 to 6. The setup in the pro 10 dosn't give me the low voltage warning. I realy want the telemitry in my touring car but with the continuous beaping, I was getting complaints from other drivers on the stand and it is very annoying for me as well. Both cars are running 2 cell lipo batteries and the specs for both the GTB and Tekin for the BEC are the same at 6v 3A.The pro 10 car has 1 30mm fan and 1 40mm fan, servo, temp sensor and a pesonal transponder. The transponders in both cars are the new Mylaps and they draw less current thant the older ones. Any ideas would be great.

Thanks.
Well as it turns out the only problem I had was my inability to decipher the instructions for my newer radio. Once I figured it out and reset the warning voltage level, all is good. I apologize to anyone who spent any time on this. I try my best to fix my problems befor asking questions.
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:03 AM   #16093
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Hi guys, am glad to be in the Tekin family. Had just purchased the new RS PRO w hotwire recently and run it with SP 4T with v208 installed. My current FDR is 9.38 on tamiya trf416x. Need your valuable input on the setting for the esc.
My local track is small, bumpy and sandy here. What will be the best setting to run with it. Thanks in advance
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:35 AM   #16094
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For mod (4T), you should run the RSpro in 'Dual' mode and gear it the same way as you used to. Add about 40 (out of 100) timing advance to start.

You will need to adjust the timing accordingly depending on your motor temp.


If you decide to try 'sensored' mode with mod, there is a base setup on the team tekin site (for 4.5T):
http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/index.html
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Old 07-30-2010, 03:59 AM   #16095
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Originally Posted by HyperFX View Post
The ESC must be disconnected from the RX when it's connected to the Hotwire.
An extension is your best bet. It will reduce wear in the RX pins.
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From what I understand, a Y harness will not work, that is why I whant with the extention. Please correct me if I am wrong.
your right and I'm stand corrected

just tried and when hooked up via a Y harness the Hotwire powers up the servo and my pt

so folks it an extension or need to unplug each time
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