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Old 07-28-2010, 07:20 PM   #16051
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Originally Posted by drsfly View Post
Jim,
Please elaborate about "you think there are better ways to go slower".
I think you did what was privately asked of the industry and I am not sure that is wrong.
I think we all know not everyone is capable of using 203--now 208 to it's fullest and of course that is the way it should be.
The equipment should provide a capability that lets those with the best driving skills go faster because they can control the available power.

Do you mean that there should be power available thru the speed control and then it is controlled by the wind? -- and thus the class the driver participates in?

I guess what I am asking is: you agreed to put in this "spec" to make it possible(race-able) for those of us who are not capable of using all the capabilities of the current technology, but your comment seems to open the gate to ask your opinion of how you think this newer technology should be --- directed/controlled.

There are a lot of opinions on the threads but we rarely hear why a manufacturer helps steer things( or helps others steer)-- other than those that we all understand -$.

I think I read a " difference" in what you have done with this version and what you think this version should/could do.

Just break it out-- what is your opinion of where "spec" or "stock" for that matter racing should be/go.
We are at a crossroads again with on road and it is not a time to hold back ideas.

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Darrald

I know I shoulda just Pm'd but------
Everyone is arguing again about stock. I don't think they made a stock spec mode because they "tekin" wanted to, it is because the governing bodies in RC in this case ROAR demanded it. Now stock is split into Stock spec which is no timing, like it was before. And Super stock which is dynamic timing advance. I personally think that 13.5 should be eliminated as super stock as it is as fast in most cases as mod.

The other way that the ROAR could have limited a stock class would have been to make a 21.5 or 25.5 the new stock motor. This would have slowed down everyone. But people would still be able to make them go faster with the dynamic timing adjustments.

The argument that stock is too fast is kind of silly. As I know from racing in the brushed days we were always trying to make things faster. The difference now is there is almost no up front investment to have the fasted car on the track. You no longer need the motor guy making tweeks to your motor before you run. Lipos have made batter power available to everyone. So now joe nobody and come to a big race and be as fast as the sponsored drivers for about half of what it would have cost him ten years ago to compete at the same level. And what kills me is that everyone is pissed about it.

I hear at least once a week how advanced timing speed controls are killing the hobby. Really? I don't see that. The only thing that I see killing the hobby is bunch of whinny people that discourage other from getting into TC or other onroad stuff because everything is now "too fast". If it is too fast for you then slow down. Learn to drive and set up your car. You wouldn't be at the front of the pack anyway. So being a little slower around the track doesn't make any difference. Plus, if you know anything about racing you understand the slow is fast principle. And I don't care how fast you are on the straight if you can't drive through the infield you will lose.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:31 PM   #16052
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^^^13.5 has been eliminated as a class. 17.5 no timing, 17.5 open esc and open mod are the classes now.

Personally, having different motor wind classes seems odd. I came from nitro TC where it just has to be a .12ci engine. Price is as much as one wants to pay. Nitro TC classes are then only divided into novice, intermediate and expert. Simple enough I think. No one there complains about speed unless they bought a slow engine.

I do enjoy 17.5 open esc and open mod. At my track the times are VERY VERY close over 6 minutes. Open mod wins, but by a lap, depending on traction. It is frustrating currently because over the past couple of years the motor wind requirements for the classes have changed. (21.5, 17.5, 13.5, 10.5, mod) Now I have motors that I will not use. Slowing down the sport is just wrong IMO. If one wants slow, stick to a completely spec class (chassis and all components) but we all know those do not last because everyone wants choice and the perceived component advantage.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:34 PM   #16053
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Originally Posted by mjc168 View Post
Does anyone of you know how to switch profile via esc interface?
do you mean by the mode button or HW
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:46 PM   #16054
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Moving the endbell has NO EFFECT on timing in SENSORLESS MODE. You could move the endbell 180 degrees and nothing would change. When you move the endbell, you are moving the sensor. So if you want physical motor timing, you have to have the sensor wire and be in SENSORED mode.
OK thanks.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:48 PM   #16055
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
do you mean by the mode button or HW
by esc mode button...which page is to switch profile?
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:12 PM   #16056
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by esc mode button...which page is to switch profile?
by the mode it is NW,led 1 no timing led 2-5 timing added with a 5k-20k range,led 6 is C1 set up by HW,led 7 setup with HW,
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:38 PM   #16057
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
by the mode it is NW,led 1 no timing led 2-5 timing added with a 5k-20k range,led 6 is C1 set up by HW,led 7 setup with HW,
which mean this new profile switch will replace the neutral width mode. am I right?
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:22 PM   #16058
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE View Post
by the mode it is NW,led 1 no timing led 2-5 timing added with a 5k-20k range,led 6 is C1 set up by HW,led 7 setup with HW,
Uh, dude?

Quote:
Making it easier. RS and RX8 On-Board Timing Profiles
Who needs a separate programming box when all the features are available on the ESC at the touch of a button? While the HotWire is needed for fine-tuning and software updates, we realize not everyone wants to carry a computer to the track. To make it easier, 208 has new Timing Profiles which are taking the place of Throttle Profiles on the RS's onboard interface. Throttle Profile settings are still available using the HotWire. Throttle curve adjustments can also be made on almost all good radios.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:42 PM   #16059
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Uh, dude?
confuse...Randy can you clarify on this???
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:02 AM   #16060
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The user can now select from 5 preset Timing Profiles on the RS and RS PRO without a HotWire
RS and RS PRO
TP1 – Spec Mode 0deg Boost (LED flashes when in neutral so Tech can easily verify mode)
TP2 – 15deg Boost, 5442 RPM to 20,000 RPM
TP3 – 25deg Boost, “ “
TP4 – 35deg Boost, “ “
TP5 – 45deg Boost, “ “
C1 – Custom settings using Hotwire
C2 – Custom settings using Hotwire

Custom 1 and Custom 2 (C1 and C2) are user-savable Timing Profiles created in the HotWire and are selected via the RS’s onboard interface. This will allow the user to run the same ESC in a “spec” class and have his or her own personal settings stored in C1 or C2 for the non-spec class at the same event/race.
I think this explains it pretty simply, yes C1 and C2 can be selected directly on the RS.
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:41 AM   #16061
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The TP is printed on the case of the RS next to the LEDs. It used to stand for throttle profiles. Now it stands for timing profiles. I don't know where the NW suggestion above came from.

To choose from TP1-TP5 and C1-C2 without using the HW, turn the esc on, press and release the mode button. The first LED will blink. Press and release the mode button until the LED next to TP lights up. Press and release the increase button then to choose between the timing profiles. Led1=TP1 LED5=TP5. LED 6 and 7 = C1 and C2 respectively. Of course the values for C1 and C2 can only be adjusted via the hotwire.

The directions to change timing profiles are the same as whats in the manual to change throttle profiles
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:01 AM   #16062
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
The TP is printed on the case of the RS next to the LEDs. It used to stand for throttle profiles. Now it stands for timing profiles. I don't know where the NW suggestion above came from.

To choose from TP1-TP5 and C1-C2 without using the HW, turn the esc on, press and release the mode button. The first LED will blink. Press and release the mode button until the LED next to TP lights up. Press and release the increase button then to choose between the timing profiles. Led1=TP1 LED5=TP5. LED 6 and 7 = C1 and C2 respectively. Of course the values for C1 and C2 can only be adjusted via the hotwire.

The directions to change timing profiles are the same as whats in the manual to change throttle profiles
Thanks for the information.
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:31 AM   #16063
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which mean this new profile switch will replace the neutral width mode. am I right?
oops sorry,it has been a long day i have 100 things going on in every witch way,thanks andrew
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:46 AM   #16064
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Just loaded up 208 and have a query.

When using CP1 or CP2 - Under the timing tab their is a new slider 'Timing advance' which goes from 0 to 100

It does not appear in the dashboard when you set it.

I assume it does not apply in this profile as the timing boost and turbo boost take over ?

Thanks
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:50 AM   #16065
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Originally Posted by JamieV View Post
Just loaded up 208 and have a query.

When using CP1 or CP2 - Under the timing tab their is a new slider 'Timing advance' which goes from 0 to 100

It does not appear in the dashboard when you set it.

I assume it does not apply in this profile as the timing boost and turbo boost take over ?

Thanks
Timing advance is for when you are running in dual mode. And the 0-100 are applied to the "sensorless" operation. You need to change the mode to sensored and then the the slider will change to Boost and Turbo.
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