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Old 07-24-2010, 11:04 PM   #15871
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Setup 208 today with my 203 settings. I used to be able to feather the throttle through the sweeper without any significant loss of power. Now when I feather the throttle, the car checks-up on me. I removed drag brake and tried different turbo delays with the same results.
I did notice this also today. I went up one pinion and it was gone. We have a big sweeper going on to out back straight and often I'm in turbo in the middle of the sweeper and if I make the smallest throttle adjustment the turbo would unspools quick. I changed gear and that helped me and my friend added +60 exp and he said he like that better then the gear change. I will try the +exp next week.

TQ and win in 17.5 with the new v208 for me at our track. Motor temps were down some and the power "felt" better but it also was smoother. I hope that last sentence made since.
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:09 AM   #15872
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Same issue here...anything less than full throttle and the car is a slug. Back off the trigger just enough to disengage the turbo and the car checks up noticeably. This is with 0 drag brake. This can be noticed on the bench as well...with 203 the timing boost kicks in just after LED 4 lights up (5k-18k RPM range), with 208 it is LED 6, almost to full throttle and just before the turbo activates. I tried re-flashing to 203 then back to 208, same results. This is with 17.5 Duo 2, no motor timing, TC rubber on carpet, 7.2 FDR, same settings as 203.
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The turbo cannot be "kicked on" until full throttle is reached, period. This is why KO radio users must do the +10 epa trick as that system tend to have end point float.

The RPM range has NEVER had an affect on turbo. If your theory was true flashing back to 203 would have fixed it.

Also DO NOT use a 203 equipped computer/hotwire to make adjustments to an esc equipped with 208. It can cause erratic operation.
I didn't say turbo, I said timing boost. And 203 does in fact "fix it"...I should probably clarify that statement: reflashing to 203 resulted in the issue going away and the timing boost initiating normally (on LED 4). I went back to 208 and the issue reappeared. I am also a KO user and am familiar with the +10 EPA trick. I also used two laptops when going back and forth between software. Not knocking the product or peeing in the oatmeal here Randy, just trying to give "regular racer" feedback, especially after seeing another user reporting the same issue I had.

-rocky b
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Old 07-25-2010, 01:08 AM   #15873
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Well ran with the new firmware today. Motor was coming off slightly cooler than before, and its got decent brakes now. Also the drag brake seems to work much better than before.

I think the only downside I may have noticed is that the car felt slightly slower out of the corners, but this may have just been in my mind as my lap time have dropped 0.5 of a sec from the last time with no changes to the car.
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Old 07-25-2010, 01:49 AM   #15874
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I also ran 208 for the first time today, using my 203 settings... and initially I was impressed... all the good things people have been saying and the new interface is better (though the sliders are still rubbish compared to other software that incorporates sliders)...

BUT...

My car was hesitating and slowing for a few moments for no apparent reason down the straights... it was infrequent so I initially dismissed it... then in the 3rd run, in the last 2 minutes the performance seemed to drop off very suddenly, I put that down to my settings and took some timing out and the 4th run seemed to vindicate that, setting my fastest run of the day...

To the 5th run of the day - the speed was GONE... so slow in fact that a guy that's just returned to racing and is still using 5 year old brushed 24Deg motor and ESC was quicker in a straight line... there was no punch and the ESC felt distinctly warmer than usual when I picked the car up after the race... I checked and changed batteries - no difference... changed the motor to a new Duo 2 and it went mental when I touched the throttle, surging, shuddering, trying to turn backwards even with no throttle applied... as a test I threw and old SP ESC into it and the motor ran fine, just not to the performance of a Tekin of course...

Ideas? Suggestions?
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:42 AM   #15875
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I experienced something very simular at the recent state titles, turned out to the be the speedie connector going into the reciever, taking the connector in and out for over a year took its toll. the car would glitch on the back straights where there werea couple of bumps. Try that.
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:13 AM   #15876
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have you checked the sensor wire?
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:36 AM   #15877
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Whats the problem if im using a brushless sensored motor on my rs pro and the 1-2 and 6-7 leds are flashing.
I've got the right motor type (1)
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:50 AM   #15878
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Whats the problem if im using a brushless sensored motor on my rs pro and the 1-2 and 6-7 leds are flashing.
I've got the right motor type (1)
Check all of your solder connections. If there is any sliver of solder between two posts, it will read as a brushed motor and give you those fault lights. Look very close, it doesn't take much.
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:01 AM   #15879
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Whats the problem if im using a brushless sensored motor on my rs pro and the 1-2 and 6-7 leds are flashing.
I've got the right motor type (1)
I'm having the exact same problem ! ... I will definitely check my solder contact points on my motor today at the track... Thanks stiltskin....
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:04 AM   #15880
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I'm having the exact same problem ! ... I will definitely check my solder contact points on my motor today at the track... Thanks stiltskin....
No problem. Good luck.
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:06 AM   #15881
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When the speedie blinks on these lights and the settings are 100% correct and all connections are fine. Usually its time to send it for a service.
rev poled a couple of speedies, did exactly this........
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:56 AM   #15882
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Whats the problem if im using a brushless sensored motor on my rs pro and the 1-2 and 6-7 leds are flashing.
I've got the right motor type (1)
I had the same problem when I updated my esc from 203 to 208,as soon as esc updated leds 1-2 and 6-7 flashing,updated esc a second time and now ok.

HTH
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:18 AM   #15883
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Hi, need some help here.

Loaded the 208 and used the same settings as from the 203, including the same FDR. The car was significantly less "punchy". Seemed to just be coasting along.

Not sure why that should be so. Should I be changing FDR etc to get back the same feel as the 203?

Car was a T3 running an SP 11.5t on an FDR of 7.5
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:03 PM   #15884
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Hi, need some help here.

Loaded the 208 and used the same settings as from the 203, including the same FDR. The car was significantly less "punchy". Seemed to just be coasting along.

Not sure why that should be so. Should I be changing FDR etc to get back the same feel as the 203?

Car was a T3 running an SP 11.5t on an FDR of 7.5
When I made my initial changes, it seemed that the speedo defaulted to Spec 1 settings. VERY slow. I went back in, verified all the settings and reapplied. Problem solved. I had to apply settings after updating the timing folder. If not, the settings would drop back to default as soon as I clicked on another folder.
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:11 PM   #15885
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I ran the 208 software today on a parking lot track and I noticed the following:
1. Car was eaiser to drive as it wasn't an on/off switch
2. The breaks were a little stronger but much more consistent
3. Motor dropped about 10 degree's
4. Car was a little less punchy, but I think the start/end RPM could be narrowed up a little

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