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Old 07-23-2010, 06:16 PM   #15811
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You will have 30deg of sensorless timing, which is still slower than spec mode where everyone will put all the timing in the motor (and probably melt it eventually). So it will not be an advantage in a spec race to lose the sensor plug and change to sensorless. Unless at the same time you add a few pinion teeth and you might get close, but not faster.

Yes you need to set C1 and apply settings, then set C2 and apply settings.
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Last edited by Tekin Prez; 07-23-2010 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:24 PM   #15812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
sounds like alot of people in stock will have a sensor wire "fall out" lol
Not a bug, and has no spec advantage.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:32 PM   #15813
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Thinking this over more you will actually only have 10% sensorless timing ( 3deg) if you are in Spec mode and the plug comes out. You do not get to set sensorless timing when in TP1, it automatically defaults to 10% which is TP1 when in dual mode.

If the led is flashing in nuetral showing you are in spec mode you cannot increase the sensorless timing. If the plug comes out you will be dog slow, but get home.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:44 PM   #15814
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Are there instructions anywhere on how you select the preset and the custom settings without the hot wire?

I cant see them anywhere.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:47 PM   #15815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lupin_au View Post
Are there instructions anywhere on how you select the preset and the custom settings without the hot wire?

I cant see them anywhere.
http://teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf

what used to be throttle profiles are now timing profiles.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:53 PM   #15816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lupin_au View Post
Are there instructions anywhere on how you select the preset and the custom settings without the hot wire?

I cant see them anywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
http://teamtekin.com/manuals/RSManual.pdf

what used to be throttle profiles are now timing profiles.
and in the email it tells you the value of timing for 2-5
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Old 07-23-2010, 08:38 PM   #15817
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Is there still the need to calibrate at less than 100% throttle epa then bump up to 100? Since installing 208 and doing my normal calibration (KO Eurus, set at 95 then bump to 100), the turbo is definitely kicking in before full throttle is reached. Quite a surprise mid-sweeper!

-rocky b
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Old 07-23-2010, 09:00 PM   #15818
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Can you no longer disable LVC?

Also, I think I found a typo.

When you mouse over the LVC bar it states...

LED3 3s Lipo--9v
LED2 2s Lipo--6v
LED1 3s Liop--3v (I'm guessing this one should say 1s?)
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:55 PM   #15819
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so has 208 fixed anyones brake issue?
anyone start me off with a setup and frd large track with 10.5 x12 cheers
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:18 PM   #15820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
Can you no longer disable LVC?

Also, I think I found a typo.

When you mouse over the LVC bar it states...

LED3 3s Lipo--9v
LED2 2s Lipo--6v
LED1 3s Liop--3v (I'm guessing this one should say 1s?)
Yes 1 led is 1s lipo cut off. There is no "off" as we felt there was no need for it. Even 4 cell won't get to 3v's for those still running it(not sure who).
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:30 PM   #15821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Yes 1 led is 1s lipo cut off. There is no "off" as we felt there was no need for it. Even 4 cell won't get to 3v's for those still running it(not sure who).
For those who runs A123 or LiFe battery,the 'off' feature is useful.

But I guess the way to work around is to choose the lower cutoff setting.
ie, when running 2SA123, I would have to pick 1S setting.

Is my assumption correct?

Edit: I guess I can also use 'custom' LVC as well.
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Old 07-24-2010, 01:24 AM   #15822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Yes 1 led is 1s lipo cut off. There is no "off" as we felt there was no need for it. Even 4 cell won't get to 3v's for those still running it(not sure who).
When racing, I've always felt a lot more comfortable with LVC off. 3v is very low though. I doubt I'd ever hit it. I don't think I have ever pulled my packs off that low. Maybe my 1s dips that low after a pro-longed practice run. I guess I will find out.
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Old 07-24-2010, 01:25 AM   #15823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardmankam View Post
For those who runs A123 or LiFe battery,the 'off' feature is useful.

But I guess the way to work around is to choose the lower cutoff setting.
ie, when running 2SA123, I would have to pick 1S setting.

Is my assumption correct?

Edit: I guess I can also use 'custom' LVC as well.
custom will only allow you go got as low as 3v, aka 1s.
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Old 07-24-2010, 01:41 AM   #15824
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I am going to use my RS in my 12th scale with a 3.7v Lipo and 6v receiver pack (13.5 motor). Do I need to disconnect the red wire from the esc plug that goes into the receiver?
Also what position should the esc on/off switch be in (if it matters)?

Thanks
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:44 AM   #15825
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just finished downloading 208 and am about to install it and see what it looks like. I did have a question though...why was 5400 and 20000 chosen for the start and end RPMs in the on-board profiles? Most setups I've seen run quite a bit lower end RPM.

Also I noticed the "Advanced" button doesn't do anything...looks like the software is already in advanced mode but clicking it doesn't bring it out of advanced mode.

Thank you for fixing the lettering on the buttons so they can be read without mousing over them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by InspGadgt; 07-24-2010 at 03:24 AM.
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