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Old 07-22-2010, 10:00 AM   #15691
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I see a lot of people have problems with the ballistic motors and I think it has to do with what novak says the timing is on them. The original batch of motors had a N mark on them that they say was 30* of timing and you can advance or retard from there and the newer motors have 30 in the middle and go up and down from there. When I was having issues with no low end power in my motor I was afraid to bump up the timing because of that information, but finally tried it after exhausting all other options. I advanced the motor timing by one mark (5*) and turned down the esc so I wouldn't have any issues and worked back up from there. Now my car has great rip and I haven't blown anything up. It's confusing how all the mfgs. lable their motors different, but I think with the ballistic motor you have to think of the center mark as 0* timing and work from there.
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:33 AM   #15692
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Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
I see a lot of people have problems with the ballistic motors and I think it has to do with what novak says the timing is on them. The original batch of motors had a N mark on them that they say was 30* of timing and you can advance or retard from there and the newer motors have 30 in the middle and go up and down from there. When I was having issues with no low end power in my motor I was afraid to bump up the timing because of that information, but finally tried it after exhausting all other options. I advanced the motor timing by one mark (5*) and turned down the esc so I wouldn't have any issues and worked back up from there. Now my car has great rip and I haven't blown anything up. It's confusing how all the mfgs. lable their motors different, but I think with the ballistic motor you have to think of the center mark as 0* timing and work from there.
I recently asked about the Novak timing and got this response.
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
"Those motors are set to 30 degrees internally. I would just leave the timing there... there is a lot of mis-information about what "zero" degrees of timing is in a brushless motor and no one actually runs their motor with zero timing. Generally, the novaks are among the lowest timed motors".

Same question to the Tekin Forum guys and i got this response from 20 Smoke "There is 15* (hidden)so the sensor can read but it is never added in,i would just go by the deg on the sticker.start with low timing boost and no turbo and go up"
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:49 AM   #15693
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Originally Posted by BILKO1 View Post
I recently asked about the Novak timing and got this response.
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss
"Those motors are set to 30 degrees internally. I would just leave the timing there... there is a lot of mis-information about what "zero" degrees of timing is in a brushless motor and no one actually runs their motor with zero timing. Generally, the novaks are among the lowest timed motors".

Same question to the Tekin Forum guys and i got this response from 20 Smoke "There is 15* (hidden)so the sensor can read but it is never added in,i would just go by the deg on the sticker.start with low timing boost and no turbo and go up"
It's the same answer but worded different. Tekin I think says it best though, it's an early sensor read that all motors have. A brushless motor will not run at true zero so they all have some timing in them. I believe this is why originally the ballistic motors had the N mark on them, but a bunch of people cried that they wanted the actual timing on there. Tekin motors already took that little extra into account already and just marked that spot as 0* so as not to confuse the issue. So like I said before treat it like it's 0* and work your setup from there.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:53 PM   #15694
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Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
I see a lot of people have problems with the ballistic motors and I think it has to do with what novak says the timing is on them. The original batch of motors had a N mark on them that they say was 30* of timing and you can advance or retard from there and the newer motors have 30 in the middle and go up and down from there. When I was having issues with no low end power in my motor I was afraid to bump up the timing because of that information, but finally tried it after exhausting all other options. I advanced the motor timing by one mark (5*) and turned down the esc so I wouldn't have any issues and worked back up from there. Now my car has great rip and I haven't blown anything up. It's confusing how all the mfgs. lable their motors different, but I think with the ballistic motor you have to think of the center mark as 0* timing and work from there.
This has been my exact experience with several Ballistic motors at our track. When 203 first came out SOP was turn any motor all the way down. Many Ballistics would cog when this was done, and would really come to life when you went back to 'N' or a tick to the '+' side.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:18 PM   #15695
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Originally Posted by JCarr View Post
It's the same answer but worded different. Tekin I think says it best though, it's an early sensor read that all motors have. A brushless motor will not run at true zero so they all have some timing in them. I believe this is why originally the ballistic motors had the N mark on them, but a bunch of people cried that they wanted the actual timing on there. Tekin motors already took that little extra into account already and just marked that spot as 0* so as not to confuse the issue. So like I said before treat it like it's 0* and work your setup from there.
Regarding Tekin motors, So is it better to leave the motor timing at the factory preset mark of 12 deg or retard it to the zero mark on the can?
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:25 PM   #15696
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Regarding Tekin motors, So is it better to leave the motor timing at the factory preset mark of 12 deg or retard it to the zero mark on the can?
For the most punch at low end, we are leaving the can around stock timing.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:58 PM   #15697
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Can someone give me a good baseline setup for the RS in 12th scale (AE12R5.1).

Planning on running a 13.5 novak velociti and the track is ashpalt and medium size.

There are two driver setups (Ken Miller & Yang Lai) on the Tekin website and to me they appear very different to each other. Any suggestions please.

Thanks
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:25 PM   #15698
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For the most punch at low end, we are leaving the can around stock timing.
alright, thanks. If you retard the timing, you get more punch at low end or lesser punch?
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:30 PM   #15699
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alright, thanks. If you retard the timing, you get more punch at low end or lesser punch?
Anything less than 10 degrees on a tekin motor starts to lessen punch at low end. And anything past 20 or so starts to add heat in conjunction with boost.
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:34 PM   #15700
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I wonder how late everyone is staying up tonight...might be worth it to put on a pot of coffee...
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:37 PM   #15701
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cool!
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:38 PM   #15702
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I wonder how late everyone is staying up tonight...might be worth it to put on a pot of coffee...
Real late if there will be an update released????????
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:39 PM   #15703
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I wonder how late everyone is staying up tonight...might be worth it to put on a pot of coffee...
It is 1:37pm (Friday) in my part of the world and only a few hours before I finish work. Bring on the weekend
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:55 PM   #15704
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Originally Posted by Andrew Barr View Post
Can someone give me a good baseline setup for the RS in 12th scale (AE12R5.1).

Planning on running a 13.5 novak velociti and the track is ashpalt and medium size.

There are two driver setups (Ken Miller & Yang Lai) on the Tekin website and to me they appear very different to each other. Any suggestions please.

Thanks
try both and tweak to fit your style
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:55 PM   #15705
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
I wonder how late everyone is staying up tonight...might be worth it to put on a pot of coffee...
good thing i dont work tomorrow
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