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Old 07-08-2010, 07:25 PM   #15436
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I'm sure this had been asked many times, but it's too hot to go back countless pages and hopefully find an answer..... Has tekin considered an android platform. Pretty please!!!
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:49 PM   #15437
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Default Weak Brakes

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned by anyone yet, so here goes.

My brakes, particularly when the care is barely moving (lining up on the grid) became extremely weak when I changed my final drive from 5.x down to 4.0. I don't brake much at higher speeds, so I didn't really pay attention to the difference. I first noticed the weak braking with my 21.5 that was already at a 4.0 final drive, but then

I wondered if maybe it was because I had no drag brake, so last night I experimented. Sure enough, when I bumped up the drag brake a couple steps (using the speedo), the brakes felt stronger. I bumped it up a few more steps, and sure enough, the car now stops quickly at very low speeds. So what happens when you pull the brake trigger is definitely impacted by the drag brake setting. Perhaps the speedo is adding the trigger brake to the drag brake, instead of making the trigger interpolate between the drag brake setting and full braking power.

The next thing I want to try is to dial in a bunch of drag brake, but then dial in a bunch of push control, and see if it ends up working like a lower drag brake setting with stronger overall brakes. Like maybe once you apply the brakes, the push control would shut off and then you'd have your drag brake + trigger brake.

-Mike
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Old 07-09-2010, 07:51 AM   #15438
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Don't use Drag brake and Push Control at the sametime. When I tried it and my motor started to make strange sounds.

Only use drag brake or push control.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:33 AM   #15439
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned by anyone yet, so here goes.

My brakes, particularly when the care is barely moving (lining up on the grid) became extremely weak when I changed my final drive from 5.x down to 4.0. I don't brake much at higher speeds, so I didn't really pay attention to the difference. I first noticed the weak braking with my 21.5 that was already at a 4.0 final drive, but then

I wondered if maybe it was because I had no drag brake, so last night I experimented. Sure enough, when I bumped up the drag brake a couple steps (using the speedo), the brakes felt stronger. I bumped it up a few more steps, and sure enough, the car now stops quickly at very low speeds. So what happens when you pull the brake trigger is definitely impacted by the drag brake setting. Perhaps the speedo is adding the trigger brake to the drag brake, instead of making the trigger interpolate between the drag brake setting and full braking power.

The next thing I want to try is to dial in a bunch of drag brake, but then dial in a bunch of push control, and see if it ends up working like a lower drag brake setting with stronger overall brakes. Like maybe once you apply the brakes, the push control would shut off and then you'd have your drag brake + trigger brake.

-Mike
Drag brakes and brakes are supposed to work separately.

The reason your car now has better brakes at low speeds is that the drag brake is able to stop it (not the normal brake). Not sure why your normal brake doesn't work, but it should. I can lock the wheels on my car with a RSpro and a 17.5 Redline. One other thing to remember is that a lower gear ratio like yours takes away the brakes.
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:52 AM   #15440
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned by anyone yet, so here goes.

My brakes, particularly when the care is barely moving (lining up on the grid) became extremely weak when I changed my final drive from 5.x down to 4.0. I don't brake much at higher speeds, so I didn't really pay attention to the difference. I first noticed the weak braking with my 21.5 that was already at a 4.0 final drive, but then

I wondered if maybe it was because I had no drag brake, so last night I experimented. Sure enough, when I bumped up the drag brake a couple steps (using the speedo), the brakes felt stronger. I bumped it up a few more steps, and sure enough, the car now stops quickly at very low speeds. So what happens when you pull the brake trigger is definitely impacted by the drag brake setting. Perhaps the speedo is adding the trigger brake to the drag brake, instead of making the trigger interpolate between the drag brake setting and full braking power.

The next thing I want to try is to dial in a bunch of drag brake, but then dial in a bunch of push control, and see if it ends up working like a lower drag brake setting with stronger overall brakes. Like maybe once you apply the brakes, the push control would shut off and then you'd have your drag brake + trigger brake.

-Mike
That's really odd. The only time I have ever had break issues was with an older version of the software. The other thing that you might check and I have seen this affect the break power too is using the dual drive mode. If you run in sensored only mode this seems to make the breaks stronger. Where dual drive they feel a little weaker. And as I said before with version 198 was like there was none.
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:27 PM   #15441
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Last edited by 20 SMOKE; 07-09-2010 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 07-09-2010, 02:34 PM   #15442
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Drag brakes and brakes are supposed to work separately.
Not doubting, but what's the reasoning for that? It doesn't make sense that they should be separate. What makes sense to me that the esc has a maximum amount of braking power that can be applied, no matter what. That would be reduced with the brake strength setting. With 0 trigger, you'd get none of it, and with full trigger, you'd get all of it. Then drag brake would simply change the "no trigger" point to be higher than zero, but full trigger would still be full trigger. Clearly it doesn't work that way.


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I can lock the wheels on my car with a RSpro and a 17.5 Redline.
So can I, with timing boost and a higher gear ratio.

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One other thing to remember is that a lower gear ratio like yours takes away the brakes.
See that's the thing, it makes sense that maximum braking potential would be less with a lower gear ratio, but it's like the car has no brakes at all with the trigger at low speeds, where it should still be able to stop flat. It's like the speedo's not even trying. But yet the drag brake has no problems, and will stop the car in its tracks once it gets below a certain speed.

Keep in mind I'm running sensored, but with the boost turned off. Perhaps I should try adding like 1 degree of timing boost, and see what happens.

-Mike
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Old 07-09-2010, 02:50 PM   #15443
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So i've geared my car down to a 5.99 final drive i'm trying to get as close to a Reedy Nats. setup. Going to also change the turbo delay to 0.3. What's a good RPM start and end range for 13.5?
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:30 PM   #15444
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
The Duo2 likes to be ran with negative 5 on the timing with agressive setups.
What is the preference for a Duo2 17.5 for the motor timing? Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-09-2010, 04:27 PM   #15445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz;
What is the preference for a Duo2 17.5 for the motor timing? Thanks in advance.
That is the motor timing
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Old 07-09-2010, 05:22 PM   #15446
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What is the preference for a Duo2 17.5 for the motor timing? Thanks in advance.
heh.. you quoted your own answer.
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Old 07-09-2010, 07:28 PM   #15447
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Originally Posted by immrwright7 View Post
So i've geared my car down to a 5.99 final drive i'm trying to get as close to a Reedy Nats. setup. Going to also change the turbo delay to 0.3. What's a good RPM start and end range for 13.5?
try randy's setup on tekin's site
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:06 PM   #15448
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
What is the preference for a Duo2 17.5 for the motor timing? Thanks in advance.
Like I said I like 0 to 1 tick of positive timing on all Duo2's.
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:02 PM   #15449
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heh.. you quoted your own answer.
I'm just puzzled by the neg 5, I have it turn full + with 45 in the speedo... She is coming off the track at 190 and running 6.5 FDR..

I think I cut out the part Randy was talking about a Duo2 13.5, not 17.5, but my bad...
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:02 PM   #15450
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Like I said I like 0 to 1 tick of positive timing on all Duo2's.
Ok, thanks... I give this a try...
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