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Old 04-15-2008, 06:38 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Francis M. View Post
I race outdoors so when the outside temp is a little over 90 and the track temp is over 120degrees it will be hard to keep the motor temps under 160..

I had a high of 179 this weekend running a final drive of 4.6 on a 13.5 novak.

I usually run my motors closer to 160 with a final drive of 4.4 on cooler days...

on a 1/12 or touring?

I run a 10.5 novak with 7.44 final on my touring. the temp is barely reach 120f without heatsink.

use higher final gear ratio, it lowers the temp.

low gear ratio, require a lot of amp to pull while speeding up. it seems better for traction but puts a lot of stress on battery esc and motor. add heatsinks and cooling fans. it helps a lot. the performance gain is much greater than those weight it addup.

good luck for the summer
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:14 PM   #17
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Realize this is an old thread, but I can't find any threads on the topic I seek an answer to. This one seems closest.

Motor temp's, everyone talks about high motor temp's. I measure the temp's of my motors after each race, and especially as I adjust timing and/or gearing. But my question is will a cooler motor run better, that is if my motor is currently running about 135-140 after a race, will getting the temp down to 120-130 make it run even better/stronger? Or is there kind of a lower limit where your not going to get more power/strength?

I don't run a fan, have timing adjusted way up and motor temps are still pretty cool. This is for a Tamiya Mini (TCS rules don't allow for gearing changes) so there is no hidden speed that I haven't already tapped (in terms of the motor and gearing). I have about 10grams of extra weight I need to add to make weight ..debating between a fan or weights positioned strategically. But if there is no benefit to further reduce my motor temp than a fan is a waste for this application.
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:53 PM   #18
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Every 10 degrees C or 18F you raise a motors temperature, whether from 0C to 10C or from 80C to 90C, the motor will lose 4% of its power due to the increased resistance in the copper windings.

Colder will always mean better motor performance, always.
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Old 09-21-2015, 06:39 PM   #19
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Thanks desertrat!
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:26 PM   #20
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So what's the max temp we should run? I try and keep everything around 150-160F. I was talking to some guys in Asia that run Scorpion motors and they run them at 240. They say they are good to 300. Is there any advantage to running that hot?
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:30 AM   #21
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Yes, all else being equal, cooler means better motor performance. But for a Mini, that may not translate into better lap times. On many tracks you'll be restricted by wheelspin rather than motor power.

Front-Wheel-Drive = The Great Motor Equalizer
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:07 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
So what's the max temp we should run? I try and keep everything around 150-160F. I was talking to some guys in Asia that run Scorpion motors and they run them at 240. They say they are good to 300. Is there any advantage to running that hot?
In a perfect world, your motor will be room temp at the beginning of your run, and still be the same at the end. But sadly that's impossible.

Just because a motor will take higher temps, doesn't mean it's ideal to have it that high. Perhaps these Scorpion motors (never heard of them) can tolerate those temps which allow high timing settings.

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Old 09-22-2015, 09:13 AM   #23
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300 degrees! -seems like solder joints would start to come undone and surrounding chassis parts would begin to melt?!
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:43 AM   #24
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I have run Scorpion Motors in my helicopters and they are good to 300, They usually are hitting 220-230 all the time. No fade or issues like we get with car motors. Their car motors aren't ROAR approved so i haven't tried one. They seem to be the ticket if you like to run hot. The guys I know in Asia swear by them. The wire is coated differently, the magnets are different material and the bearings are actually the failure point when you get them over 300. I have never pushed my Helicopter motors that hard so I can't say from first hand experience. For the record I run Team Powers Actiniums in my cars, and love them. I was just trying to get my head around why anyone would want to run that hot.
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:12 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
I was just trying to get my head around why anyone would want to run that hot.
In most of our RC car classes that use 540-size motors, the gearing is not set for maximum horsepower, because doing so would cause the motor to exceed the manufacturer's specified maximum temperature. The gearing is intentionally set shorter (higher numerical gear reduction), letting the motor operate at speeds mostly above its horsepower peak, and closer to its efficiency peak. One reason we use fans is so we can gear to run the motor closer to its horsepower peak. Similarly, if the motor can run at higher temperatures without damage, then the gearing can also be set to run the motor nearer its horsepower peak.
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Last edited by howardcano; 09-23-2015 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:02 PM   #26
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I live in AZ and our track surface is often over 150 degrees during a race. I can tell you that the plastic in most motors starts to melt around 215-220 and the solder about the same.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:08 AM   #27
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I've been running my old brushed system in my SC5m until I can afford brushless stock setup.
I ran 2 packs this morning..approx 20min.
When I was done I took temps.
Pack was 135F...ESC was 140F...and motor read 165F avg with peak on the rotor at 180F.
In my opinion this is perfectly normal. Anything higher and I might be worried about damage.
Motor is Trinity SG Emerald 15x4..19p 84s...approx 11.5 fdr.
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