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Old 04-12-2008, 12:49 PM   #1
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Post LRP Sphere Comp TC Spec and Vector x11 brushless problems.. please help!

I'm not sure whats going on here, hopefully someone can help?

There is a bit to explain, so please be patient and read on...

I've got an LRP Sphere Competition TC Spec ESC (2 of them) and an LRP Vector x11 13.5T and LRP Vector x11 3.5T brushless motors that arent working, no matter what combination of ESCs or motors I am using.

The first ESC ran fine for a few months with a 27T brushed motor. I then swapped it out for a Nosram Dragon 13.5T brushless (was all I could get off the shelf at the time and I needed a motor) and it ran fine for several weeks. I then swapped to a new LRP Vector x11 13.5T brushless motor (as the Nosram wasnt performing how I wanted) and here's where the problem started.

When I accellerate, the motor makes a beeping/whining noise. If I hold the throttle on, after about 2-3 seconds, the ESC mode light flashes in alternating colours (red/green I think, I'm colour blind heh). When the lights are doing that, using the throttle does not make the motor do anything. After a few seconds, the lights stop flashing and when holding the throttle it goes back to the same beeping/whining noise. Again, holding throttle on for a few seconds causes the mode lights to flash alternating colours again. I swapped out the motor for the 3.5T (which has run without issue for several weeks in the past) and it does the same thing.

Now, in an effort to get back racing I bought a new LRP Sphere Competition TC Spec ESC. The brand new 13.5T LRP x11 brushless didnt work in this new ESC so I'm assuming it was dead out of the box. I put in the 3.5T brushless which is known to work and voila, it works. However, it only ran for 1 weeks racing before this new ESC is doing exactly the same thing as the original ESC did (noise from motor, flashing mode lights etc).

What on earth is going on here?

I think its possible the capacitor on the TC Spec ESCs have blown - the end is raised slightly (definately not completely flat) but its not as bulging as I would expect from a blown capacitor. Whilst I never looked at the original capacitor, I did compare the new ESC and the old one and noticed that the new ESC's capacitor was flat on the end, but its now slightly raised.

What will the ESC do with a blown capacitor?
Will the ESC still work but not as good, or will it not work at all?
Has anyone experienced this before with the Sphere Comp TC Spec ESC?

All wiring/soldering has been checked and double checked. There are no shorts, broken circuits, dry solder joints or whatever. Some of the cabling has also been replaced in the process of swapping in/out motors and ESCs. THe servo still works and the transponder powers up fine.

I guess I should also mention that I am racing 1/10th onroad touring car on an indoor carpet track at www.PRECC.org.au in Perth Western Australia (if anyone is in the area, this is a great club to join!).

Hundreds of dollars spent on LRP products and none of them are performing as I expected. There are so many positive reviews on both the LRP brushless motors and ESC but I'm starting to wonder if LRP products are really all that great (dont get me started on my issues with their AI Runner Plus Reverse ESC!).

I really would love to get to the bottom of this.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Last edited by mok; 04-13-2008 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 04-12-2008, 01:56 PM   #2
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Did you setup the different ESC/motor combos to your radio each time you changed components? Being Neutral/Full Power/Full Brake...
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:14 PM   #3
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yes, each time the motor/ESC has been setup for full throttle/neutral/full brake... multiple times actually, just to make sure!
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:20 PM   #4
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Good; but, I certainly hope they are not set in the same order that you listed.
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:33 PM   #5
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hehe no they werent..
its set neutral/full throttle/full brake

i should prob also mention that i have tested the capacitors with a multimeter and whilst not being the best method it has shown that there is no short in the capacitor..

the same symptoms exist with either 5 or 6 cell packs..
i've also tried multiple sensor wires have been used/tested with each BL motor.

Last edited by mok; 04-12-2008 at 02:33 PM. Reason: typos
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
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hehe no they werent..
its set neutral/full throttle/full brake
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:49 PM   #7
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my biggest question atm..
will this ESC still function with a blown capacitor? or will it not work at all?
(there is definately no leaking electrolyte)

also, does anyone know of the existence of a circuit diagram for the tc spec ESC?
i'd love to see where the capacitor fits into the equation.
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Old 04-12-2008, 03:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mok View Post
my biggest question atm..
will this ESC still function with a blown capacitor? or will it not work at all?
(there is definately no leaking electrolyte)

also, does anyone know of the existence of a circuit diagram for the tc spec ESC?
i'd love to see where the capacitor fits into the equation.
Changed the sensor wire?
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Old 04-12-2008, 03:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
Changed the sensor wire?
Yes, have tested 3 different sensor wires.
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Old 04-13-2008, 08:55 PM   #10
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*bump*
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:26 PM   #11
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I have had the same problem with the LRP Speedos...

I had to send them in to be fixed, but the found out that "Life Time Warranty" is really a "Limited Life Time Warranty".
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:41 PM   #12
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I believe the speed control will still work without a capacitor unless there is a short.

I may be wrong here..but I'm pretty sure the power capacitor is really there to help protect the speed control from damage and keep it running cooler. If the issue is with both speed controllers, I highly doubt the capacitors are your problem.

Are you running NiMHs or LiPos? If you are running NiMHs, do you maybe have the LiPo cutoff set by chance?

I never had this issue when I was running a Sphere Comp (then again, mine has been in waiting to be warrantied for 5 of the 7 weeks I have owned it.) I was switching back and forth between brushed/brushless running NiMH cells no problem.
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Old 04-13-2008, 10:16 PM   #13
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try another motor first ....

or

clean the sensor inside the 13.5....
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Old 04-14-2008, 12:24 AM   #14
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As someone has said a few threads up, try setting Mode 1 to Value 2. This will set it to the 4-6 cell NIMH setting and turn off the Lipo Auto cutoff feature
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:04 AM   #15
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yep, have already set mode 1 on the ESC to value 2, there was no difference.

on both ESCs i have tried 2 motors but the 13.5T didnt work on the new ESC when the older 3.5T one did (but has now stopped).

i'm not 100% confident the sensor wires are the problem, because i have tried 3 different ones and all the same issue. however, what i did observe was when the motor worked and you took out the sensor wire, it has the same symptom as what is happening now (ie. no motor function, beeping/whining noise etc).

now, the new bit is cleaning the sensor...

does anyone have a picture of an LRP motor's insides to show me where the sensor would be located?

oh and i'm also going to try changing the capacitor...

i've read in a magazine of ppl using 2700uF 16V capacitors. to my way of thinking (level of experience and knowledge) as long as the voltage rating is higher than the packs i'm running then i'm fine, but the bigger the uF rating the better/longer/whatever it will work.

does anyone know what the TC Spec originally comes with?
are there any recommended replacements?
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