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Old 04-14-2008, 09:55 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by mok View Post
yep, have already set mode 1 on the ESC to value 2, there was no difference.

on both ESCs i have tried 2 motors but the 13.5T didnt work on the new ESC when the older 3.5T one did (but has now stopped).

i'm not 100% confident the sensor wires are the problem, because i have tried 3 different ones and all the same issue. however, what i did observe was when the motor worked and you took out the sensor wire, it has the same symptom as what is happening now (ie. no motor function, beeping/whining noise etc).

now, the new bit is cleaning the sensor...

does anyone have a picture of an LRP motor's insides to show me where the sensor would be located?

oh and i'm also going to try changing the capacitor...

i've read in a magazine of ppl using 2700uF 16V capacitors. to my way of thinking (level of experience and knowledge) as long as the voltage rating is higher than the packs i'm running then i'm fine, but the bigger the uF rating the better/longer/whatever it will work.

does anyone know what the TC Spec originally comes with?
are there any recommended replacements?
I`v seen a few X-11 spin the grease from the bearing onto the sensor...

Remove the rotor from the can and use a Q-tip to clean the sensor inside..
just wipe it off, no cleaner , ect...

It is made of black plastic and surrounds the top of the rotor inside the endbell...
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Old 04-14-2008, 10:37 AM   #17
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ok i'm reserving my opinion on whether or not my issues are gone, but i've had some success with the 2nd ESC and the 3.5T motor....

here is what has been done..

- sensor wire has bee changed and routed different to the ESC (it looks like the way i had it cable tied was pulling it out ever so slightly from the motor)
- sensor wire has been reinforce at the plug ends to ensure that impacts and vibrations arent going to wiggle it or knock it out
- ESC capacitor has been changed from the standard cap that comes on the TC Spec, to one which is rate 16V 4700uF and a peak temp of 105 C
- the ESC cap has been mounted in a different location, allowing better air flow around it, the motor and the ESC
- a second 4700uF 16V cap has had a lead attached and is now plugged into the battery port of the receiver.
- and whilst its not related to the issue, i've changed my gearing to a higer ratio and hopefully this will help reduce some of the current draw from the motor (recently had a battery explode due to heat!) and hopefully take advantage of the 5 cell setup and our track.

my initial observation from bench tests are that the voltage drop across the entire circuit has definately been reduced, noticeably when hitting the throttle hard. i've also seem to found a few more rpms and the motor really does seem to want to wind up fast - to me its in the realms of what the 3.5T sounded like with full charged 6 cell pack, only its now 5 cells

i need to see how this holds up to racing on the track before I draw any conclusions, but it also seems like the whole system is running cooler too (but cant really say this from the few blats i have done in the kitchen hehe).

i'm actually excited about race night tmw
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:42 AM   #18
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I know its an old thread but maybe this will help some people with vector x11's.

I have got a lrp x11 6.5T from a friend which blowed his esc. The reason was sensor assembly got loose and timing was changed while driving. Most probably you were having the same issue. I found out that vector x11 motor has default 40 deg timing and that LRP esc wont run well if the timing is less than something like 30deg. It just wont start to rotate so yellow led will blink after few moments.

If you are experiencing these problems with vector x11 you should look at your backplate timing. If its bellow 0 maybe thats the problem. If its above zero your sensor assembly got probably loose. What you should do is get the sensor assembly holder out by unsoldering it from motor wires which is tricky. Its best to get some new solder and move it out. Than you should find 40 deg of default timing. It should be easy as there are backplate holes at 30 deg. Just be sure that you add 10 deg not substract so you get 40 deg of timing not 20. There are sensor wires that are cut to length so they shouldnt let you to 20 deg timing position. Then you should reattach the sensor PCB to holder. I used superglue but because of vibration I am not sure of durability. Now you can assemble your motor and it should run just fine.
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