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Old 06-09-2010, 03:03 PM   #1411
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
I have been running 1s 1/12 with the new software and it ok i still haven't found the right setup yet but getting their. I'm not sure how much more i'll be testing it as I'm getting ready for iic and don't believe the speedo will be legal to use.
Do they have control ESC in 12th scale?

Some of you may not know but try setting option 9 to 2 and see what happens. This is the "Sportsman Mode" which disables settings 1-4 (no timing).
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:22 PM   #1412
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WOW I don't check out RC tech for a few days and the thread has gone MENTAL! I have been busy with some personal things along with rebuilding for this weekends testing. I'll get the complete setup guide finished real soon. Below is just a copy and paste out of the guide as it stands to help everyone out with initial settings (the go fast settings).



17.5
FDR 4.5~5.0
Timeshift 8
Timeshift gain 2
Turbo 2
Kick in 7


.
I run on carpet with foam so can you tell me the roll-out it corresponds?
Or can you tell me what is the diameter rubber tire to target a roll-out?

The motor is a Ballistic 17.5
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Old 06-10-2010, 02:22 AM   #1413
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I run on carpet with foam so can you tell me the roll-out it corresponds?
Or can you tell me what is the diameter rubber tire to target a roll-out?

The motor is a Ballistic 17.5
4.5 to 5 fdr on rubber is 40 to 45mm roll out. but i ran an ss the other day and i ran 4.2 fdr (47.5mm roll out)just a bit less than half timing on the motor and time shift 9 gain 1 and kick in on 1 which is turbo off. quite liked the feel. if you are running on a tight track you won't need turbo with this setup but see how your temps go!! with the novak i would try and stay below 70 degrees celsius.
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:23 AM   #1414
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Hi Guys

Be gentle with me . . . . I'm a Newbie

Right I have an RB30 running firmware V1.3a and a 1s LiPo and 13.5 motor along with a LiPo boost.

I have been told to take off the red wire as there is power going to RX from the ESC and the LiPo boost ?

If I do this I then need to switch on the LiPo boost and the Esc or the car is dead

IS THIS CORRECT

Now when I need to drop on the pit card I have to reconect the red wire back in the plug

If above is correct I will go to Maplins and get a small on / off switch for the RED wire

thanks Gary

Last edited by Gary_UK; 06-10-2010 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:54 AM   #1415
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Originally Posted by Gary_UK View Post
Be gentle with me . . . . I'm a Newbie

Right I have an RB30 running firmware V1.3a and a 1s LiPo and 13.5 motor along with a LiPo boost.

I have been told to take off the red wire as there is power going to RX from the ESC and the LiPo boost ?

If I do this I then need to switch on the LiPo boost and the Esc or the car is dead

IS THIS CORRECT

Now when I need to drop on the pit card I have to reconect the red wire back in the plug

If above is correct I will go to Maplins and get a small on / off switch for the RED wire

thanks Gary
Yes you are correct, switching the esc on with a booster and not removing the positive wire from the esc to the receiver made my booster go poof, thankfully it wasn't the receiver going poof which is the normal reaction. If you leave the red wire in then you don't need to turn on the esc just the booster. If you choose to leave it in then hide the esc switch so there are no costly mistakes.
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Old 06-10-2010, 12:15 PM   #1416
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Hi Conrad

Right sorry I did not turn on the ESC switch . . .
Just the booster which is in fact the R/Cdynamics one which did get HOT and cut out at about 4 minutes So DO I take out the red wire on the plug on the ESC ?

I just did it and switched on the booster its still dead

So with the red wire out I have to switch on BOTH booster and ESC is this correct

I have not run it this way yet I just tried it out on me bench and it worked that way ?

Just that now to programme it I have to put the red wire back in and then out and so on
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:09 PM   #1417
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You don't need to use the program card to change settings. I always just use the push button on the ESC. This can be done on the side ofthe track and once you get accustomed to the settings it is as fast or faster for tuning by the side of the track.
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:50 PM   #1418
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Originally Posted by decibels View Post
4.5 to 5 fdr on rubber is 40 to 45mm roll out. but i ran an ss the other day and i ran 4.2 fdr (47.5mm roll out)just a bit less than half timing on the motor and time shift 9 gain 1 and kick in on 1 which is turbo off. quite liked the feel. if you are running on a tight track you won't need turbo with this setup but see how your temps go!! with the novak i would try and stay below 70 degrees celsius.
Thanks for the info
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:56 PM   #1419
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Originally Posted by Gary_UK View Post
So with the red wire out I have to switch on BOTH booster and ESC is this correctYup
Don't know why the booster is getting hot, with only the booster switched on and the esc off I wouldn't of thought the booster would of warmed itself up. I have a couple of the cheap 6 ebay ones and they work great despite the lower spec (5v, 1A) compared to the r/c dynamics one.

Yes you do need to plug the positive wire back in to program by the card, I only do this for firmware upgrades otherwise I just use the card as a reference and count the flashes.
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Old 06-11-2010, 06:48 AM   #1420
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Hi,

I was able to get some track time with the new firmware. What i can say is that it was an amazing improvement from the old one. I do need some help from the experts in terms of getting more grunt out the corner and a tad more top speed.

Here is the track layout from yesterdays practice. It is hard to see but I am running the florescent yellow front with florescent pink back car.

Here is my setup (RBS 13.5 Orca)
5.0 FDR best lap 12.9 temp 65 Deg C
1 - 8
2 - 2
3 - 3
4 - 7

5.2 FDR best lap 13.3 temp 60 Dec C
1 - 7
2 - 2
3 - 2
4 - 7

ESC was not having any problems with temp. I do plan to add fan to the motor.

I did try to start from 5.5 then 5.2 then 5.0 but it doesn't have the top speed of the 5.0 FDR

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6PIbCrPGRc

I also have one of the RED's but i wanted to give TW some track time and from the last time i used it (old firmware) i am happy with the direction of the company.

Thanks!
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Old 06-12-2010, 06:02 AM   #1421
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Originally Posted by kp-61 View Post
Hi,

I was able to get some track time with the new firmware. What i can say is that it was an amazing improvement from the old one. I do need some help from the experts in terms of getting more grunt out the corner and a tad more top speed.

Here is the track layout from yesterdays practice. It is hard to see but I am running the florescent yellow front with florescent pink back car.

Here is my setup (RBS 13.5 Orca)
5.0 FDR best lap 12.9 temp 65 Deg C
1 - 8
2 - 2
3 - 3
4 - 7

5.2 FDR best lap 13.3 temp 60 Dec C
1 - 7
2 - 2
3 - 2
4 - 7

ESC was not having any problems with temp. I do plan to add fan to the motor.

I did try to start from 5.5 then 5.2 then 5.0 but it doesn't have the top speed of the 5.0 FDR

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6PIbCrPGRc

I also have one of the RED's but i wanted to give TW some track time and from the last time i used it (old firmware) i am happy with the direction of the company.

Thanks!
Hey you should definately add a heatsink and fan to keep things on the cooler side. This should give you about 10 degrees to play with in which i suggest time shift 9, gain setting 2, turbo 3, turbo kick in at 4. then from there you need to work on gearing. you will want to lower your fdr probably to 4.7. But go down slowly as all of a sudden you will hit a sweet spot. but make sure to let turbo cut in late as you do not get the full power of time shift if it cuts in to early and you only keep loading the motor with timing before it is ready and that will generate heat. and by having a low fdr, you will keep the motor out of full timing more often and actually generate less heat till you go to low. But it also uses the natural torque of the motor better out of the turn as the timing takes a little longer to kick in giving you a better surge on initial use of the throttle!! Hope this helps try everything one at a time.
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Old 06-12-2010, 09:48 AM   #1422
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Hi guys

I have one RBS and program card for sale. Ship it worldwide and paypal accepted.

Used only once, photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/jorgesimes/Racing#

Send pm.
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:16 AM   #1423
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Had time for a little test of the new firmware in my 1/12th at the club which is alot smaller than the hall I normally run the 1/12th 1S in so it wasn't a true test. Running timeshift 3/4 and gain of 1 the car had plenty of grunt out of the corners which it was really missing in the last series I raced the car in on the old firmware. Only adjusting the esc settings I tried a gain of 2 and timeshift 7 and the car had lost it's spark.

I did fiddle with the turbo settings but it didn't appear to make any difference, had turbo up to 5 and the kick in at 9 and it was just flat. Kick in of 9 is 21,000rpm. Question, is this low enough for the turbo to kick in on 1S? With a 10.5t motor with a 3500Kv rating I only have a potential rpm of (3.7 x 3500) 12950rpm, should turbo still work?
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:34 AM   #1424
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Had time for a little test of the new firmware in my 1/12th at the club which is alot smaller than the hall I normally run the 1/12th 1S in so it wasn't a true test. Running timeshift 3/4 and gain of 1 the car had plenty of grunt out of the corners which it was really missing in the last series I raced the car in on the old firmware. Only adjusting the esc settings I tried a gain of 2 and timeshift 7 and the car had lost it's spark.

I did fiddle with the turbo settings but it didn't appear to make any difference, had turbo up to 5 and the kick in at 9 and it was just flat. Kick in of 9 is 21,000rpm. Question, is this low enough for the turbo to kick in on 1S? With a 10.5t motor with a 3500Kv rating I only have a potential rpm of (3.7 x 3500) 12950rpm, should turbo still work?
I have not done any testing with 1s but from my exp the turbo kickins are too low. I run setting 5 max on any motor. I have asked for a version with double spacing between the kickins (4000rpm vs 2000rpm to test it out further and also make it more suitable for modified. We will see how that compares.

When it comes to "feeling" the turbo kick in you will notice it less and less the higher you set the kickin value. This is because the acceleration is closer to constant with no soft spot between timeshift and turbo. For best performance tune looking for a slight soft spot then go up one setting. This gives the best balance between heat and speed, of course this is all dependent on temps.
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:25 AM   #1425
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Think you missed my point on rpm Dragon, if said motor is 3500kv at 3.7v it will only produce 12950rpm at 0 speedo timing, even on 2S the same motor will only produce 25200rpm which is in the turbo kick in range on the new firmware. So running with the minimum amount of timing on 1S, will the turbo actually work?

Unlike the older software when you hit full throttle on the Tx you got turbo from the speedo regardless of it's current rpm. Now on the new firmware it's rpm that defines when turbo comes in, not throttle position.

Now the more timeshift you add on the speedo the more rpm the motor will run at so you could/should notice more of a difference between kick in settings, no?
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