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Old 05-21-2010, 11:02 AM   #1321
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Originally Posted by TLRacing View Post
When using the RB30 in 1S 17.5 oval class the speedo will drain 120 - 130 mah from from receiver pack per 4 minute run. When I put the track owner's Tekin in it only drained my receiver pack about 30 - 40 mah per 4 mintue run. I use the switch on the receiver pack to turn everything on and leave the switch on the esc off. Any idea way the RB-30 is draining so much from the receiver pack compared to the Tekin? Thanks
Have you removed the red wire from the receiver plug of the ESC? If not I believe you draw a higher current from the receiver battery.

I really don't know settings for oval racing, especially if you are full throttle all lap. What esc and settings do the fast guys run?
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:43 PM   #1322
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Have you removed the red wire from the receiver plug of the ESC? If not I believe you draw a higher current from the receiver battery.

I really don't know settings for oval racing, especially if you are full throttle all lap. What esc and settings do the fast guys run?
I have not removed the red wire. The guys at the track have not removed any wires for single cell racing that is why I have not. They do not need to, but they are all running the tekin rs or the mamba max pro. That is why I was wondering if the TW required something different.

As stated above, all the fast guys are running the tekin and mamba. That seems to be the only 2 esc oval racers are running right now, at least in the US. I am not sure on their setting. Several of the tekin guys I have seen have different setups and the same goes for those running the mamba.


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Old 05-21-2010, 06:26 PM   #1323
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After upoading the new firmware the red light is iluminated while conected to the pc is this right ?
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:20 AM   #1324
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After upoading the new firmware the red light is iluminated while conected to the pc is this right ?
I have never really looked! I just go by what the program says. If it says programing complete then it is good.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:08 AM   #1325
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ATLASCOPCO

Yes, RED LED will solid on when connected to the handheld programmer after firmware upgrade.

BOB:
Thanks a lot for making the new table

TLRacing:
You need to remove the RED wire on the ESC-RX plug if running receiver battery

prhess:
Please take care on the ESC temp if running on RB30, even you use 21.5T ! The power required in this firmware is almost 3X higher than the previous!
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:33 AM   #1326
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Originally Posted by TEAMWAVE View Post
ATLASCOPCO

Yes, RED LED will solid on when connected to the handheld programmer after firmware upgrade.

BOB:
Thanks a lot for making the new table

TLRacing:
You need to remove the RED wire on the ESC-RX plug if running receiver battery

prhess:
Please take care on the ESC temp if running on RB30, even you use 21.5T ! The power required in this firmware is almost 3X higher than the previous!

Cheers Max I thought I had a problem for a minitue
Thanks
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:21 PM   #1327
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Evening,

Can someone give me a starting point for next weekend at the muchmore GP. THe track can be seen on this link:

http://www.sdrcc.co.uk/racing/files/on-road-track.pdf

We will be running tracks 1 & 2 with a Tekin Redline 10.5 and RBS with the new firmware.

My initial testing was with a FDR of around 7.2 and the following ESC settings
1/6
2/2
3/6
4/6
5/3
6/2
7/4
8/4
9/1

This obviously was much quicker than the old firmware but I was at full speed about a 1/4 of the way down the straight. The long sweeping corner before the straight is banked so you can get some speed up on the straight! I set page 1 to 9 and wow the car was great but after 3 mins the speedo went on thermal so I backed it off to 7 and got 5 mins with no problems. Motor was about 60degC. What is the link between ESC and motor temperature? If I decrease my FDR will the motor heat up a bit but the ESC cool down?
SHould mention the main straight is about 70m long
Any advice?

And if anyone fancies coming to Aberdeenshire for the racing next week, PM me!

Last edited by topher2009; 05-22-2010 at 01:25 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:49 PM   #1328
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Just got back from testing the new FW.
I ended up running about 2-3 tenths faster per lap then I ran with the old firmware, but I still feel that there is more power there to find.

My settings on a 50x30ft. track were:

Motor: SP 17.5 V3
FDR: 5.17
Timeshift: 7
TS Gain: 3
Turbo: 7
Turbo RPM: 25k
Drive Profile: 7
Neutral Brake: 3
Temp Cut-Off: 3
LiPo Cut-Off: 2
Mode: 1
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:59 PM   #1329
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Can The latest RBS firmware be ran on the RB50 without major problems?
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:26 PM   #1330
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topher2009:

You can switch off the ESC temp cut, measure the ESC heat sink temperature after run, it is ok if temp is under 70C and need to take care if over 80C.

For straight line speed, you can set turbo to 9 and leave TS unchanged. Also you can play around with Turbo kick-in rpm. Lower rpm doesn't mean you can accelerate faster! You need to fine tune it to suit your track, sometime using higher kick-in rpm (lower value in setting page 4) will gives faster acceleration, especially for high turn motor like 17.5T & 21.5T since their torque is not enough.

Danny-b23
Try using higher Kick-in rpm (29000, 31000) and you will find reduced in temperature and faster acceleration.

MattFromSooke:
You can load it to RB50, the only problem is we won't provide 30days warranty for that even you switch back to the old firmware. It doesn't matter if your ESC was purchased over 30 days.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:07 PM   #1331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEAMWAVE View Post

Danny-b23
Try using higher Kick-in rpm (29000, 31000) and you will find reduced in temperature and faster acceleration.
Are you talking ESC temp or motor temp? ESC temp is no issue, and my motor is only getting to 120*F after a 6 minute run.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:07 AM   #1332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topher2009 View Post
Evening,

Can someone give me a starting point for next weekend at the muchmore GP. THe track can be seen on this link:

http://www.sdrcc.co.uk/racing/files/on-road-track.pdf

We will be running tracks 1 & 2 with a Tekin Redline 10.5 and RBS with the new firmware.

My initial testing was with a FDR of around 7.2 and the following ESC settings
1/6
2/2
3/6
4/6
5/3
6/2
7/4
8/4
9/1

This obviously was much quicker than the old firmware but I was at full speed about a 1/4 of the way down the straight. The long sweeping corner before the straight is banked so you can get some speed up on the straight! I set page 1 to 9 and wow the car was great but after 3 mins the speedo went on thermal so I backed it off to 7 and got 5 mins with no problems. Motor was about 60degC. What is the link between ESC and motor temperature? If I decrease my FDR will the motor heat up a bit but the ESC cool down?
SHould mention the main straight is about 70m long
Any advice?

And if anyone fancies coming to Aberdeenshire for the racing next week, PM me!
The problem is clear.. Your FDR is WAY to high and you are stuck running very high timing all the time due to the motors RPM. You will also lack a lot of bottom end like this. Try FDR of around 5.5~6.0 for much better performance and lower temps. Personally I never run Timeshift below 7 for 10.5 and always 9 for all other classes. Its the timeshift system that does the brunt of the work and really makes this system shine.

I put a settings guide on the previous page and I stand by that as a good starting point for any track. Its VERY IMPORTANT to remember that this ISN'T a TEKIN so please don't start with the crazy high FDR's they run or you will just be slow. Also lower FDR does not always equal more heat, often its the other way around.

Another thing that can help is try a better motor. I really like the Duo range and find very balanced performance with them.
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:33 AM   #1333
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I was seriously considering getting a Tekin RS or RS Pro until I stumbled upon this thread. The Tekin is more expensive but not by a long shot.

From what I've read, I take it I will not be at a disadvantage with the Team Wave - any comments?

I've done a bit of searching and I can get an RB30 with setting card for the same price as I can pick up an RBS with setting card for about US$20 more than the RB30. Or I can get an RB50 with setting card for about US$10 more than the RBS with a setting card.

At the moment I am running a 4WD buggy in Stock (17.5t) with a Novak 17.5 (not the ballistic but the version before with the fixed timing). Who knows when I might want to step up to a faster class so I'd like to make sure the speedo has some in reserve.

What do you guy's suggest I get:
RBS + setting card
RB30 + setting card (and upgrade to RBS firmware)
RB50 + setting card (and upgrade to RBS firmware)
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:38 AM   #1334
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Dragonfire Thanks for the advice I must admit I set an fdr based on what the tekin crew had used! Will reduce as you advise!!

Crustynoodle I would just buy an rbs,From what I understand firstly an rb30 looses any warranty when you install rbs firmware plus the rb30 doesn't have a fan so you need to add one, the rbs comes with one fitted.
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Old 05-23-2010, 09:12 AM   #1335
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No problem Tropher...

The best deal is the RBS. The RB30 is not recommended for this software although we have used one with a 17.5 for a while now with no problems. But if buying new go for the RBS it will just do everything short of serious modified.
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