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Old 05-03-2010, 07:31 AM   #1201
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hi guys,
i've just got a RBS esc but cant seem to bind it to my Sanwa tx. i followed the user manual settings, throttle EPAs all set to max throw (140% / 160%), Reverse switch is on and followed the setup procedures correctly. after finishing setup, i only saw a blinking Red led and not a supposedly Green led.

next i set Reverse switch to Normal, EPAs full throws. after finishing setup, solid Green led comes on. turn off esc and on it again, i see a solid Green and a blinking Red leds, is this normal? i give full throttle to esc and the Green led goes off and leaves only the Red led blinking, full reverse and no leds are shown. is this normal?

this time, i change EPAs to 100% / 100% with all other settings remaining as above, at neutral i see a solid Green and a blinking Red leds. i give full throttle and there's no leds on at all while full reverse also no leds light up. so what gives? any solutions will be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Old 05-04-2010, 04:28 AM   #1202
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Hi topher2009,

I think your three 21sec laps were caused by not engaging of Turbo. When there are heat build up inside the ESC, your full throttle position may be drifted a little bit and make turbo can't engage at full throttle. After you run three laps without turbo and the heat was gone, the throttle signal back to normal again and you can have your turbo again. The simple solution is

1/ update to the latest firmware
2/ Set your radio travel a bit further after radio setup. E.g. set to 105 after your radio calibration done at 100.
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Old 05-04-2010, 07:02 AM   #1203
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Hi Teamwave (Max)

when you'll relise the new firmware as advised by Dragonfire?

Ciao
Max
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Old 05-04-2010, 08:58 AM   #1204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtaddei View Post
Hi Teamwave (Max)

when you'll relise the new firmware as advised by Dragonfire?

Ciao
Max
Well today I got the latest update which has the new setting structure (no more mess). There is only one other aspect we are working on at the moment and that is the timing advance system. The current setup has been useful for testing but requires two changes in tandem to achieve best results. We are working on a better solution for this and then it should be more or less ready to rock. We are also taking the opportunity to produce a great braking system. All timeshifting systems I have played with recently have a "delay" when you use the brakes at high speed meaning you spend less time on throttle and more timing trying to stop. We have already sorted this problem out but we still want to improve it a little further for the final version. Team Wave are really rolling out the updates at the moment so everyone can have this real soon. We will also have a tuning guide and starting points for different classes based on the motors we have tested with.
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:08 AM   #1205
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Originally Posted by alana07 View Post
hi guys,
i've just got a RBS esc but cant seem to bind it to my Sanwa tx. i followed the user manual settings, throttle EPAs all set to max throw (140% / 160%), Reverse switch is on and followed the setup procedures correctly. after finishing setup, i only saw a blinking Red led and not a supposedly Green led.

next i set Reverse switch to Normal, EPAs full throws. after finishing setup, solid Green led comes on. turn off esc and on it again, i see a solid Green and a blinking Red leds, is this normal? i give full throttle to esc and the Green led goes off and leaves only the Red led blinking, full reverse and no leds are shown. is this normal?

this time, i change EPAs to 100% / 100% with all other settings remaining as above, at neutral i see a solid Green and a blinking Red leds. i give full throttle and there's no leds on at all while full reverse also no leds light up. so what gives? any solutions will be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Ok I just checked my radio and throttle is on forward, not reverse. Just to confirm you setup the system as follows...

Radio on and EPA set to MAX, also check brakes are at 100%.

Plug in ESC to reciever and battery.

Hold down set button and turn on... Release button as soon as green light starts to flash.

With throttle in neutral press the set button (red light flashes twice)

With throttle at full throttle press set button (red light flashes twice)

With throttle at full brake press set button (red light flashes twice)

The ESC should then return to a solid green light only. The light will turn off as soon as you lightly touch the throttle or brake and come on again at full throttle or full brake.

If this is all working fine check the wiring to your motor. Its very easy to have a sensor cable not quite plugged in correctly or even motor wires backwards.
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:51 AM   #1206
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Max,

THanks for the advise, I do have the latest firmware (but would love to have the new new one!!). What you say seems to make sense, it only happened in one round which just happened to be the round where I didnt crash (crashing = time allowed for ESC to cool).

I will increase my throttle travel 5% when I go testing tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

Many thanks for your help, after connecting my RB30 to the battery the wrong way around and blowing it, I didnt hesitate in buying another TW ESC just based on the excellent support you and the team drivers provide (in my opinion).

Regards

Chris
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Old 05-04-2010, 08:22 PM   #1207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Ok I just checked my radio and throttle is on forward, not reverse. Just to confirm you setup the system as follows...

Radio on and EPA set to MAX, also check brakes are at 100%.

Plug in ESC to reciever and battery.

Hold down set button and turn on... Release button as soon as green light starts to flash.

With throttle in neutral press the set button (red light flashes twice)

With throttle at full throttle press set button (red light flashes twice)

With throttle at full brake press set button (red light flashes twice)

The ESC should then return to a solid green light only. The light will turn off as soon as you lightly touch the throttle or brake and come on again at full throttle or full brake.

If this is all working fine check the wiring to your motor. Its very easy to have a sensor cable not quite plugged in correctly or even motor wires backwards.
thanks for your reply here, and my esc is setup and wired as according to what u written here. i sent a couple of emails to Max of Teamwave yesterday and after some mail exchanges, he suggested setting the lipo cutoff to either value 3 or 4 (i'm at value 1 which is cutoff at 6.4v).
so last night i tried out his suggestion by reducing the lipo cutoff value from 6.4 > 6.2 > 6.0, all these didnt managed to work out. finally i disabled the lipo cutoff and voila the esc can now work with tx, solid green led at neutral and full throttle and full reverse. but i dont understand why i have to disable the lipo cutoff in order for the esc to work properly with my Sanwa tx. it really defeats the purpose of having the lipo cutoff function then. is there a bug in the software or something like that? thanks again.
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Old 05-05-2010, 06:38 AM   #1208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Well today I got the latest update which has the new setting structure (no more mess). There is only one other aspect we are working on at the moment and that is the timing advance system. The current setup has been useful for testing but requires two changes in tandem to achieve best results. We are working on a better solution for this and then it should be more or less ready to rock. We are also taking the opportunity to produce a great braking system. All timeshifting systems I have played with recently have a "delay" when you use the brakes at high speed meaning you spend less time on throttle and more timing trying to stop. We have already sorted this problem out but we still want to improve it a little further for the final version. Team Wave are really rolling out the updates at the moment so everyone can have this real soon. We will also have a tuning guide and starting points for different classes based on the motors we have tested with.
Dragonfire you have p.m.
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:52 AM   #1209
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Hi all.
Looking for some advice on gearing and settings on an RB50 running the RBS firmware (lattest public release firmware) with a Ballistic 13.5 in a Xray T3 on a huge (geared for 1/8 IC) track.
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:13 AM   #1210
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Originally Posted by Slimie View Post
Hi all.
Looking for some advice on gearing and settings on an RB50 running the RBS firmware (lattest public release firmware) with a Ballistic 13.5 in a Xray T3 on a huge (geared for 1/8 IC) track.
Try disabling turbo and gearing up for as much speed as you can before temps become a problem. If you are on full throttle a lot, this is the best way to be fast. Time shift setting makes a bigger difference with no turbo so start with 4 and work from there.

I do however have some better advice....

Try 5.0 FDR with Timeshift 7, Gain 3, Turbo 5, Kickin 6. This is with the beta software that should be released sometime next week.

While the software is not 100% finished what we have now works great so as long as this latest version has no problems they plan to release it to the public. From now on I am told that its all my fault (beta testers) for any hold up's as they are waiting on evaluation of this version for public release. Track time should occur tomorrow on a nice big track so as long as all is well everyone should get the chance to play with it next weekend. There will be a tuning guide with it as well to explain the differences and settings on the new software as well as a starting point for the regular motor classes.

Cheers...
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:40 AM   #1211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimie View Post
Hi all.
Looking for some advice on gearing and settings on an RB50 running the RBS firmware (lattest public release firmware) with a Ballistic 13.5 in a Xray T3 on a huge (geared for 1/8 IC) track.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Try disabling turbo and gearing up for as much speed as you can before temps become a problem. If you are on full throttle a lot, this is the best way to be fast. Time shift setting makes a bigger difference with no turbo so start with 4 and work from there.

I do however have some better advice....

Try 5.0 FDR with Timeshift 7, Gain 3, Turbo 5, Kickin 6. This is with the beta software that should be released sometime next week.

While the software is not 100% finished what we have now works great so as long as this latest version has no problems they plan to release it to the public. From now on I am told that its all my fault (beta testers) for any hold up's as they are waiting on evaluation of this version for public release. Track time should occur tomorrow on a nice big track so as long as all is well everyone should get the chance to play with it next weekend. There will be a tuning guide with it as well to explain the differences and settings on the new software as well as a starting point for the regular motor classes.

Cheers...
You might be jumping the gun there Dragonfire! "Latest Public release firmware" would still be the refined original RB-S firmware with Twin Turbo.

I would try Twin turbo and Timeshift 5. In 10.5 I ran 36-37mm rollout so with 13.5 I'm guessing around 38-39mm and maybe 40mm if the track is as big as you say.

I would try a little endbell timing too as this made a reasonable difference to me.

As always, try these settings for 1 or 2 minutes and check temps. Be aware that you can cook a motor by undergearing too.
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:31 AM   #1212
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"This is with the beta software that should be released sometime next week."

OOoOOOOoooOOO cant wait for this new firmware. As a not so serious racer with little experience I think the setup guide will be much more help to me than the benefits of a new firmware! but as always, I want to be at least cometative on the straights!

Roll on next week! If you need someone to test the software for any bugs, i can offer my services for the days racing on sunday!!!
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:55 PM   #1213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
You might be jumping the gun there Dragonfire! "Latest Public release firmware" would still be the refined original RB-S firmware with Twin Turbo.

I would try Twin turbo and Timeshift 5. In 10.5 I ran 36-37mm rollout so with 13.5 I'm guessing around 38-39mm and maybe 40mm if the track is as big as you say.

I would try a little endbell timing too as this made a reasonable difference to me.

As always, try these settings for 1 or 2 minutes and check temps. Be aware that you can cook a motor by undergearing too.
LOL... You really HAVE been missing out on some of the e-mails and updates!
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Old 05-07-2010, 09:29 PM   #1214
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but i dont understand why i have to disable the lipo cutoff in order for the esc to work properly with my Sanwa tx. it really defeats the purpose of having the lipo cutoff function then. is there a bug in the software or something like that? thanks again.
anyone knows why?
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Old 05-09-2010, 05:25 PM   #1215
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How does the rb50 stack up against the gm 120 and the tekin rs for 13.5 motors? I have a jinx with tekin so I am consisting the alternatives
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