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New TEAM WAVE racing brushless system

New TEAM WAVE racing brushless system

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Old 02-19-2014, 06:51 AM
  #1921  
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Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
hey max what about a esc for 1 cell
All of the current speedos do work on 1S as long as you keep the battery voltage above 3.5v but they will only supply battery voltage to the rest of the electrics for power. Their is a 1S booster in development along with a 1S firmware but as ever these things take time.
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:45 PM
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After owning and running a RB50 in various vehicles for around 4 years, the case has finally let go. Can I buy a spare from anywhere?
Also, over the weekend the capacitor came off and vanished into the abyss. Can you recommend a replacement?

Cheers, Russ.
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Old 02-23-2014, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by russmini View Post
After owning and running a RB50 in various vehicles for around 4 years, the case has finally let go. Can I buy a spare from anywhere?
Also, over the weekend the capacitor came off and vanished into the abyss. Can you recommend a replacement?

Cheers, Russ.
I have no clue about a replacement case but you can use any 16-25V capacitor with a capacity of 1500uF and up, I believe the stock TeamWave unit is 16V 1500uF
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:56 AM
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Team Wave has a new product some of you might be interested in, a high power 1S lipo Voltage Booster, 6v @ 3A. Their is a demo video of the booster in operation on the tube.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
Team Wave has a new product some of you might be interested in, a high power 1S lipo Voltage Booster, 6v @ 3A. Their is a demo video of the booster in operation on the tube.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

nice thanks for keeping us posted
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:20 PM
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Anyone had any trouble running these motors with Hobbywing v3/3.1 ESCs? I've got one that's just absolutely stubborn and will work when hooked up to a v2.1 ESC, but not when hooked up to a v3.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:41 PM
  #1927  
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It will work with Hobbywing V3.1, can you see the light on the motor when hook up to V3.1?
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:00 AM
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whats the sweet spot on temp for the 17.5 motors? ive had mine hit flashing red and solid red today in blinky,fdr was 3.25 to start with with 2 in the window,it wasnt fast enough and was flashing red,but after 30 secs with the fan still on it went to a solid green,so geared down to 3.17 and still not fast enough at the end of the straight,tried 0 in the window at 3.09 and after 5 mins its solid green but still not fast enough,so tried same fdr with 1 in the window and solid red,my car is nice and free no binding from bearings,the other top 5 cars seem to have all found the sweet spot at 3.12 with 69/42 i was running 38/39/40/65 ,first time out with this motor and and im impressed with the punch,im just struggling with top speed,getting caught towards the end of the straight,and about 12 cars run the same motors ,at our club they are the fastest motors out there,i was previously running an lrp x20 but couldnt get anywhere near to a car with a tw motor
any help appreciated
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:29 AM
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hi max,i just checked my motor over and noticed it has alot of play in the rotor,at least 2mm,i took it apart and fitted a shock o ring and a small shim to take out the slop,shouldnt this have been done at the factory? to be able to move away from the sensor board by 2mm isnt right is it?,oh and any chance of a steel/alloy insert for the sensor screws instead of the plastic,ive stripped one side already
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
hi max,i just checked my motor over and noticed it has alot of play in the rotor,at least 2mm,i took it apart and fitted a shock o ring and a small shim to take out the slop,shouldnt this have been done at the factory? to be able to move away from the sensor board by 2mm isnt right is it?,oh and any chance of a steel/alloy insert for the sensor screws instead of the plastic,ive stripped one side already
bump
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:12 AM
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You want the light to be on solid red at the end of the race, it should then change to flashing red after one minute. I can't advise on 17.5 blinky gearing as I have never run it.
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