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17.5 Questions...13mm rotor? Better/worse?

17.5 Questions...13mm rotor? Better/worse?

Old 03-21-2008, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean
how i understand it, 17.5 doesnt have as much RPMs as brushed but a ton more torque, so it can push through a really high gear ratio to make up for the difference and what ive seen is that on the pro-level, they dont have as much top-speed still as a good brushed motor (but are decently close).

so the 13mm rotors gives more torque and a little less top end (i think), so i figure more torque = more push for taller gearing to add more topspeed? Am i right or will it not work out too well?


edit: if this thread belongs in the Radio and electronics forum, can a mod please movie it there? Thanks.
Hey guys this was the question.. Not weather if it's legal or not.
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:01 AM
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Does anyone wonder why the Japanese still haven't made BL legal?

We tried to tell you all it wasn't going to be simple, but oh no, you all knew better...
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by SlowerOne
Does anyone wonder why the Japanese still haven't made BL legal?

We tried to tell you all it wasn't going to be simple, but oh no, you all knew better...

It IS simpler...it's you brushed guys who think it's more complicated. Tuning options aren't a bad thing.
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Old 03-21-2008, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by schurcr
Hey I've got a dead wound 19 turn arm that's really a 17 turn that will make your 19 turn motor faster than a brushless 10.5. Doh ...... wait ..... that's illegal twice.

Why do people feel they need to cheat to be faster. Maybe you should put a 13.5 stator in your 17.5, that'll make it faster. Better yet, take your 13.5 and out a 17.5 lable on it. Clubs don't care when there racers stop comming because the club doesn't have the time, money our resources to tech BL motors at a club race and people are cheating. That will just go to support what the brushed guys have been saying all along, it's to easy to cheat with brushless.

Leave it to a few sour grapes to ruin it for all. You wonder why on-road is on such a decline? Go figure.

Sweet Jeesus, are you kidding me? I ran the 13mm rotor before the rules for ROAR were even in place. It's not cheating if there aren't even rules yet. Besides, everyone I was running with knew I was trying it. Guess what? It was slower and ran hotter. That's how we learn things.

My 17.5 hasn't had a 13mm rotor in it since then because it is slower. And now it's illegal to run on top of that.

You think it's easier to cheat in BL than brushed? Give me a break. This from a group of racers that forced ROAR to get a jig to check for twisted comms because of cheating. The same group of people that doesn't seem to care that some stock motors don't even meet the minimum wire length spec. It's the slowest fricking class. Why not only allow motors that are actually legal out of the package?
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Old 03-21-2008, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBERTO
Hey guys this was the question.. Not weather if it's legal or not.
*thumbs up*
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Old 03-21-2008, 02:09 PM
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...I didn't see anywhere in the original question ANYTHING about legality, nor the mention of ROAR...

From everything I've seen about NOVAK's "tuning rotor" the 13mm rotor being larger than the 12.3 mm (or what ever the standard rotor is) creates LESS RPM.

When used in a HOT motor like a 3.5, it actually tames the motor down a little, making it a little easier to drive (which is why it ends up faster for a lot of people..., if they just switched to a 4.5 they would probably go just as fast.)

With the SLOWER motors like the 17.5, it would be rare you need to go much slower, depending on the type of racing and/or type of car. But on a slippery track or something...who knows a slower rotor may help your driving and make you smoother there too.

Now, if this was a 11mm rotor or something..then you'd probably see an increase in RPM - and the table would be shifted the other way.
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Old 03-21-2008, 02:20 PM
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Yep...that and it has more magnetic drag. On the lower-wind motors, it's supposed to open up the ideal gearing range a little.

I ran mine in a 13.5 a few months ago and it was WAAAAYYYY slower on the straight. Even when I geared up, I was getting pulled. In the infield, I was probably a little faster, just because it was a little softer with the taller gear and it turned in nicer due to the drag.

I think that what the brushed guys get confused about...especially the guys who have never run brushless...is that while brushless is easy to run and very consistent, they aren't without a downside. They're much more linear, much more "punchy" and they don't slow down very well compared to a brushed motor.

As time goes by, the brushless mfr's have come up with some tweaks to more closely emulate the brushed "feel" or make them more reliable. The options don't necessarily make the motor more powerful (std sintered rotor on a Novak does make more power, but a 13mm doesn't always), just easier to drive...some people will haul ass with them out of the box...some people will just hit more things.
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:11 PM
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I've also been experimenting with the 13mm rotor in my 13.5, but I honestly haven't been able to tell much if any difference either way, mine might run a TICK cooler, but it also feels like it needs to be geared up a bit more(about 1 tooth on the pinion) to get the same lap times. And because it's offered NO advantage at my local track, we haven't bothered to set any rule about them(& we're not a ROAR track so that doesn't matter). Only reason I've continued to run it is temperature, & I think the main reason mine runs a bit cooler is because my original rotor is a bit old, I think it's weakened a little bit, so I can save a bit of wear & tear on it by using the 13mm one(already had one before we knew anything about it) for club racing. But rules or not, for 13.5's & 17.5's, I wouldn't bother with anything but the regular sintered rotor, just a waste of money to use the 13mm one.....
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