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23T motor thread

23T motor thread

Old 08-02-2006, 12:52 PM
  #1066  
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jolly good! nice to hear some development on 23T from the other side of the pond eric was contemplating into 23T earlier when he started ea motorsports but i guess the demand over in states wasn't there yet.

keep us posted
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Old 08-02-2006, 01:05 PM
  #1067  
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No problem.. If there are other can types you would like me to carry just PM them to me with a link to where to get them and I will see what I can do..
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:15 AM
  #1068  
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Hi,
I have a Tamiya RZ 23t in my stadium truck and it was running fine till i took it out and cleaned it. I firstly took it out of my truck then pulled the armature out. I got the compressor and blew the dust out of the can and of the armature and endbell. I then sprayed the armature, motor can and endbell with motor cleaner. I reassembled it and oiled the bushings on both ends. When i charged up a pack and went to go it had no punch at all and took a while to wind up. My brothers 2wd buggy with a 540 was beating my truck. It was working good before i rebuilt it and i hadnt even cleaned it even after about 6 runs. What could be the problem?

The comm is starting to get a bit black should i get it trued?
Also how many shims should be on each side of the armature?

Thanks
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:26 AM
  #1069  
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Fast XXXS- I would definately get the comm cut and new brushes in there,it will help no end. If its not been cut for a while it may need quite a deep cut to bring it back up to its best.


As for the shims,if you have put the same ones on each side that you took out you should be fine. There is always a little movement,so the armature shouldnt be totally rock solid when you pull the end of the shaft with the pionion gear on it,but it should also not be very loose. Look for about 1-1.5mm endfloat.
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:39 AM
  #1070  
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Ok thanks. What could be some good brushes to get that will last me a while cause im only bashing with it?

With the shims as i pulled the armature out they fell out but i think they are back in properly i am just asking to make sure that i havent spaced it wrong. I am pretty sure i have placed 2 on each side. Is this right?

Thanks
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Old 08-03-2006, 05:32 AM
  #1071  
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If youre not racing it I would just go for a hard compound brush,these are usually a bit cheaper too. Just make sure you buy the right type as there are laydown or upright- the latter is when the shorter sides of the brush are at the top and the bottom of the brush holder,laydown is the opposite. (upright are | laydown are _ ) Hopefully you understand a bit better now!

The main thing is that a 100% surface area of the commutator is available to the brushes,(the dull part that needs cutting) and that it isnt too loose or tight in the can. If you havent lost any of the shims you should be fine
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Old 08-03-2006, 05:36 AM
  #1072  
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Trinity silver brush are good and gives the motor the punch power it needs. They last three times longer too.

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Old 08-03-2006, 05:33 PM
  #1073  
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Originally Posted by Nicadrauspro4
Trinity silver brush are good and gives the motor the punch power it needs. They last three times longer too.


definately go the high silver ones, you can get around 30 runs before needing to replace the brushes and they are extremely easy on the comm
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Old 08-03-2006, 10:44 PM
  #1074  
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What i dont get is the motor was running perfectly fine and i hadnt even oiled it between runs and when i pull it apart for a clean and a spray the performance dropped right off.

But I will get it cut this weekend.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:30 PM
  #1075  
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS
What i dont get is the motor was running perfectly fine and i hadnt even oiled it between runs and when i pull it apart for a clean and a spray the performance dropped right off.

But I will get it cut this weekend.
It should go back to normal if the comm and the brush are in good condition.
But I also have some bad experience with some electric motor spray. Since then I never use motor spray. Only use compressor to clean the can inside, from the dirt and re-lube the bushing and give some comm drop.
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Old 08-06-2006, 04:43 AM
  #1076  
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JDM_DOHC_SiR
I'm in Japan at Yokota; where are you racing at?
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Old 08-06-2006, 05:58 AM
  #1077  
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Originally Posted by Geetoo
...Here are 23turn tuners I know of: Atlas, Orion, Tamiya, Yokomo, Tectro, Xenon, Excel, Dinky, ARD & Excel. (Mostly japanese)
thanks geetoo still waiting for the techtro's to arrive
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:32 PM
  #1078  
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Originally Posted by marvi
thanks geetoo still waiting for the techtro's to arrive
From where, did you order Tectro motor ?
I see somewhere in this thread from the picture that the armature is not 23T but it's 22T ? Any comment ?

Beside, what's the best 23T stock motor up to now ?
Atlas, Flaps, Yokomo F-series, Tamiya or else ?
Comment please...

Thx
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:52 AM
  #1079  
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Originally Posted by akuhon
From where, did you order Tectro motor ?
I see somewhere in this thread from the picture that the armature is not 23T but it's 22T ? Any comment ?

Beside, what's the best 23T stock motor up to now ?
Atlas, Flaps, Yokomo F-series, Tamiya or else ?
Comment please...

Thx
Tectro is rare find and so far the best quality produced. It is 23turns for sure no doubt about that. All 23turn motors are good depends on how you prep and tune it. I also forgot to include Kyosho G-Style and Team Luna on the list.
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:49 PM
  #1080  
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Originally Posted by Geetoo
Tectro is rare find and so far the best quality produced. It is 23turns for sure no doubt about that. All 23turn motors are good depends on how you prep and tune it. I also forgot to include Kyosho G-Style and Team Luna on the list.
Why this Tectro so rare ? Do they make only on pre-order basis ?
I hope my friend can find it in Japan or.. buy direct from them...

There are (If I'm not mistaken) 4 types of Tectro 23T stock ... the SP2..
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