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Old 08-23-2003, 09:10 PM   #211
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I've found that a tiny drop on each brush of Mirage comm drops on either Mirage New Prism or Yok LR could well broken in the brush in less than 45 seconds with 30% encrease and stable amps. LR yield over than 12A at 5V in MMS (but it will not last for 8 minutes racing at that amps...awsome power tough)
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Old 08-24-2003, 05:38 AM   #212
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
I've found that a tiny drop on each brush of Mirage comm drops on either Mirage New Prism or Yok LR could well broken in the brush in less than 45 seconds with 30% encrease and stable amps. LR yield over than 12A at 5V in MMS (but it will not last for 8 minutes racing at that amps...awsome power tough)
12A at 5V ..!!! Wow you have a Rocket there!! THats a rare find if you have one that pulls that many Amps..]]also how many Rpm doesw it pull at 7.2V

Interseting..since I have yet to try the new Mirage..

-Dave
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Old 08-24-2003, 07:58 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
12A at 5V ..!!! Wow you have a Rocket there!! THats a rare find if you have one that pulls that many Amps..]]also how many Rpm doesw it pull at 7.2V

Interseting..since I have yet to try the new Mirage..

-Dave
Part number is MM-121, highly recommended to break in your brushes

Never tested on 7.2V but it puts out 22,700RPM at 5V in MMS. Very fast as tested in the last Indonesian National series recently (could outrun others easiy on the straight) but never hold more than 7minutes with a brand new Reedy Xcell GP3300 (DiscT 422 at 30A, 1.16V). That`s the biggest problem while ratio already in between 5.8-6.0 on TRF414 weighing at 1525grams with personal tranponder installed.

Funny thing, I lend this motor to the track owner using Yok SD with 5.4 Ratio and brand new GP3300 batteries (forgot the brand), same KO VFS setting and he could finish easly at 8 minutes run, and yes it ran fast also.

PS: this particular 12A 5V rather special since the other average at 9A (2.5V) and 10.5 (5V) on MMS after the brush has well broken in with mirage MM-121. Yokomo has much better alignment on brushood while most of the time you need to realignt the Prism.
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Old 08-24-2003, 09:29 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid


PS: this particular 12A 5V rather special since the other average at 9A (2.5V) and 10.5 (5V) on MMS after the brush has well broken in with mirage MM-121. Yokomo has much better alignment on brushood while most of the time you need to realignt the Prism.

Yea I think that the Yoke hoods are pretty much on the number.. also.. ...and your right about the apm draw with the average with the motors...but wait till you try one of the newer Xenons or ECHO Screw type rotor motors... You"ll love them..

-Dave
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Old 08-25-2003, 02:53 PM   #215
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Default Motor heat

At the start of a run, I have all the torque and RPM but in the middle of the run I start to lose some punch. Could this be due to overheating of the motor?

My motor seems a little too hot at the end; I can't touch it for more than half a second without getting uncomfortable. The brushes are fine without any signs of overheating.

How hot should the motor be at the end of a run? If I could touch the motor, how long before I yank my hand away?

This is what I run on an average sized track:

Barracuda R2
23t Xenon ST(with the red label)
5.5 F.D. Ratio
SMC GP3300 Batts

Cheers!.
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Old 08-25-2003, 03:32 PM   #216
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Default Re: Motor heat

Quote:
Originally posted by Pandora's Box
At the start of a run, I have all the torque and RPM but in the middle of the run I start to lose some punch. Could this be due to overheating of the motor?

My motor seems a little too hot at the end; I can't touch it for more than half a second without getting uncomfortable. The brushes are fine without any signs of overheating.

How hot should the motor be at the end of a run? If I could touch the motor, how long before I yank my hand away?

This is what I run on an average sized track:

Barracuda R2
23t Xenon ST(with the red label)
5.5 F.D. Ratio
SMC GP3300 Batts

Cheers!.

So you have a Griffon Red..it Has laydown brushes right.??

that gear ration seems to be in the ball park...if you know someone that has a temp gun..you really should check the motor temp when you are done with the run...that motor should not get any hotter than 82 deg C. tops..if it does then your asking for trouble...on my Xenon Red G I run about 5.65 and thats on a 160m track with a 35m straight..

so try changing the gear ration and see if that helps your problem..

-Dave
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Old 08-25-2003, 07:22 PM   #217
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I saw someone post about the Ko Propo VFS earlier and was wondering if someone that has one could give me a good starting point for its setting. I'm only running 5 minutes in 27T stock on a relatively tight layout.
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Old 08-25-2003, 09:36 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally posted by Erik R.
I saw someone post about the Ko Propo VFS earlier and was wondering if someone that has one could give me a good starting point for its setting. I'm only running 5 minutes in 27T stock on a relatively tight layout.
the Stock settiing ont eh VFS is quite good for 19T and up motors.... I wouldn"t mess with it..
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Old 08-26-2003, 09:26 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Funny thing, I lend this motor to the track owner using Yok SD with 5.4 Ratio and brand new GP3300 batteries (forgot the brand), same KO VFS setting and he could finish easly at 8 minutes run, and yes it ran fast also.
Hehehe... Shaft Drive !!

Btw, Mr. Kun is using brand new LRP Sanyo 3300.... and the final ratio is 5.67 (70/29)
I also borrowed Mr. Dhanu's Yoke LR and combined it with SMC GP3300 and 5.4 ratio (70/30)..... It's very very fast (3rd Final) and I can easily manage for 8 minutes racing.... and surprisingly my glitch problems also gone.... hmmmm damn!

I think for your driving style, shaft drive is the way to go my dear Pyramid.... hueheuhehe
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Old 08-26-2003, 09:32 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
Hehehe... Shaft Drive !!

Btw, Mr. Kun is using brand new LRP Sanyo 3300.... and the final ratio is 5.67 (70/29)
I also borrowed Mr. Dhanu's Yoke LR and combined it with SMC GP3300 and 5.4 ratio (70/30)..... It's very very fast (3rd Final) and I can easily manage for 8 minutes racing.... and surprisingly my glitch problems also gone.... hmmmm damn!

I think for your driving style, shaft drive is the way to go my dear Pyramid.... hueheuhehe
?? 5.4 with a LR... you must be on a GP track because I only gear min at the lowest 5.77 and thats on a track thats a little bigger than 160M with a 35M straight...

But what is realy nice about the new LR and SR is that you can hear the way the motor winds out and gear it accordingly ...Really Fast motors for a good price..

-Dave
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Old 08-27-2003, 12:39 AM   #221
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Dave
Here are some preliminary results of the BL vs 23T race here at Socal raceway. Both Rod and I experienced the "fading" effect of the motor at the 3-4 min mark in a 5 min race. At first I thought it maybe the batteries dumping, so I conferred with Rod and he got the same results. We determined it was the motor. We experimented with 4499's and Putnam green shunts and still got the same results with fading. The 4499's did have a bit more torque and mid range power, but the Putnam's got the top end. Rod noticed it more on his Evo3, but on my Xray Evo2, I didn't notice a difference b/w the two brushes. I think that his shaft car may be more sensitive to those ranges than my belted car. My question to you is how do you prevent the fading? What type of brush did you use, how did you cut it, and what type of springs? Oh, btw, we were using the Tamiya 23T.
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Old 08-27-2003, 01:00 AM   #222
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I though the 23T & Spec BL was a good combo tonite....esp since I was running BL
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Old 08-27-2003, 01:05 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCInfinity
Dave
Here are some preliminary results of the BL vs 23T race here at Socal raceway. Both Rod and I experienced the "fading" effect of the motor at the 3-4 min mark in a 5 min race. At first I thought it maybe the batteries dumping, so I conferred with Rod and he got the same results. We determined it was the motor. We experimented with 4499's and Putnam green shunts and still got the same results with fading. The 4499's did have a bit more torque and mid range power, but the Putnam's got the top end. Rod noticed it more on his Evo3, but on my Xray Evo2, I didn't notice a difference b/w the two brushes. I think that his shaft car may be more sensitive to those ranges than my belted car. My question to you is how do you prevent the fading? What type of brush did you use, how did you cut it, and what type of springs? Oh, btw, we were using the Tamiya 23T.
Heat My Friend ...Heat...thats what kills the Tamiya Motor....also the brushes also are junk that come with it..

anyways I use a set of ATLAS Spring silver laydown brushes that work pretty well also I use Red Springs all the way around... ..but your #1 thing should be to keep that motor cool!!
-Dave
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Old 08-27-2003, 01:30 AM   #224
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
?? 5.4 with a LR... you must be on a GP track because I only gear min at the lowest 5.77 and thats on a track thats a little bigger than 160M with a 35M straight...
-Dave
Yes, the track is bigger. About 60m for straight I guess..

Hello Mr. Dani, it's good to hear from you again..
Still love my 414 but planning to try the EVO3 on upcoming Reedy Race in Bangkok

Are u going to play nitro again? how about a free S705 just for you to crash on?
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Old 08-27-2003, 10:03 AM   #225
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Dave, what is that 23T motor you said will blow the doors off of all other 23T's?
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