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Old 02-24-2008, 01:30 AM   #1
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Default ALIGNING BRUSH HOODS

Hi,

can I have your thoughts on the best way to align brush hoods to the comm.

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Old 02-24-2008, 04:40 AM   #2
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If you're familiar with the Big Jim "Black Book" he says to align each hood individually by tweaking it then running the motor and looking at the wear mark on a test brush until it's centered.

I've tried that method, and I have to conclude that I just don't have the touch or skill to get it right that way.

What I do is to take an alignment bar, the kind that takes a rod through it and the bushings (I use a Trinity bar) and put it in the hoods and the bar through the bushings, then I loosen the spring posts and hood screws, then crank each hood clockwise against the bar and retighten the hardware. If I've done it right, when I try to remove the bar, it feels as though the hoods are trying to hold on to it...

I didn't come up with this method, I read about it on Hobbytalk. It seems to work real well for me.
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Old 02-24-2008, 05:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips View Post
If you're familiar with the Big Jim "Black Book" he says to align each hood individually by tweaking it then running the motor and looking at the wear mark on a test brush until it's centered.

I've tried that method, and I have to conclude that I just don't have the touch or skill to get it right that way.

What I do is to take an alignment bar, the kind that takes a rod through it and the bushings (I use a Trinity bar) and put it in the hoods and the bar through the bushings, then I loosen the spring posts and hood screws, then crank each hood clockwise against the bar and retighten the hardware. If I've done it right, when I try to remove the bar, it feels as though the hoods are trying to hold on to it...

I didn't come up with this method, I read about it on Hobbytalk. It seems to work real well for me.
Hi bro, I'm a real noob in EP cars. Just 1 quick question thou, must I align the brush hoods everytime I dismantle the motor, what happens if I don't align the hoods?

Thanks
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Old 02-24-2008, 07:57 AM   #4
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no you dont , its just how much time and effort you feel like putting into it , sometimes i disassemble , clean , cut comm , re brush , break in , and the whole thing takes 10 minutes , and then theres the times ill spend an hour , or more , doing the same things but really taken my time , checking everything more closly , ray
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:23 AM   #5
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Generally, aligning the hoods is something you do when you get the motor. After that they're usually trouble free, maybe a bit of cleaning when you work on the motor, but the alignment should stay.

If you buy the motor from a tuner, for example, Putnam, Team Kwik, or Brood (there are MANY others, these are jsut the first few names that come to mind) then they will have done the alignment for you. It's where the few extra dollars you're spending go.
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:28 AM   #6
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Trips is correct...guys tend to make a bigger deal out of this than needed. People run into problems as the dont let the brushes break in long enough.. You need to FULLY seat the brushes regardless of wear pattern on brush per big jim method. The big jim method is a bit fiddly and doesnt improve performance.

Basic alignment bar is the way to go and then fully seat the brushes. Some brushes it can take up to 10 minutes.

Please note when you cut the comm you must fully seat the brushes again. Critical step most people dont take the time to do.

Cheers

Jamie
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:54 AM   #7
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There is so much to this !!!

I spent a lot of time this weekend doing motors and tweeking them with brushes springs, hood alignment etc...
Did i gain not really just more confused.

I had one CO27 that ran well in a race, so before the next race i just cleaned the motor out with motor spray, ran a com stick through the hoods and gave the com a clean.Lubed bushes and reassembled.No changes just a cleanup.
Before i cleaned i checked it on the motor checker and it was on 36000rpm/9.6amps after clean it dropped to 29700rpm and 7amps.
Had me scratching my head as i never changed anything just cleaned it.
Now im thinking what is the reason for this and should i even bother cleaning my motors if they running fine.
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Old 02-25-2008, 08:34 AM   #8
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I wish I had an answer for that one... I wouldn't expect a change in performance after just a bit of cleaning. As senna555 mentioned, you DO need to re-seat the brushes after a comm cut, but if all you did was a light cleaning without cutting the comm I can't figure why the change in numbers.

While I can't explain it I have seen it happen often enough. Sometimes simply pulling the brushes out and putting them back is all it takes to change the motor's performance.

I do tend to avoid cleaning between runs, When a motor is working I usually don't mess with it until I cut the comm again, usually after four runs for a 27 turn stocker. I also always try to clean the brush faces with a bristle type comm stick when I cut the comm, and look for signs that the brushes need replacement. If the serrations are worn away I'll replace the brushes, or hit them with a serrator if I don't have a new set on hand. I don't re-serrate brushes more than once, I believe when they start getting shorter you lose some spring tension.
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Old 02-25-2008, 08:58 AM   #9
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Thats another thing i need to clarify.
My understanding is that the serrated brushes are serrated to help the brushes bed in quicker but it seems this is not teh case as i see a lot of guys just run brushes till the serrations are gone and then pop a new set in.
I prefer them when they fully seated against teh come and replace when they are worn after 2/3 race meets.
Its expensive changing brushes so often after every 2/3 runs.
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:22 AM   #10
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The serrations do help the brushes seat to the comm faster, but I think they also make the motor run better. One theory I've heard is that the serrations reduce the friction between the brush and the comm, another is that electricity flows along the skin and edges of a conductor and the serrations provide more edges for a more efficient current path.

I'm not sure why they run better with the serrations, and to be honest I'm not really 100% certain that they do indeed run better with the serrations. But they seem to...
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Old 02-25-2008, 10:04 AM   #11
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Well its been a big learning curve over the last 6/7 months getting back into electric racing.
Last time i tuned stock motors the Race Prep H brushes and hard black springs where the ticket to use on the Xstar based 27T motors.
Well back to the drawing board

Thanks for the info to all who post.
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Old 02-25-2008, 11:25 AM   #12
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Razzor, here'sa what you do if you're looking to re-serrate your brushes: Go down to a local hardware and buy a 32 TPI or 24TPI (tooth per inch) hacksaw blade. The TPI'S a very close to the serrations on the new brushes. After each time you cut the comm, you can now re-serrate your brushes. Just gently score the face of the brush until you are satisfiedk you'll get the hang of it in no time. I've gone brushless and DO NOT miss the stock motor "tricks". Good luck--Al
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:37 PM   #13
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Big Al thanks for that tip
Unfortunately we have to wait for next year to run brushless stock, we always lag behind a year or so.
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