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Old 12-31-2002, 09:01 PM   #1366
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Hi guys.
was driving around with my car with some hopups that affect handling like graphite chassis , front one way , rollbars , upperdeck ,and the recommended springs(blue+pink).then i realised i didnt know how an-out-of-the-box woulda felt.so now im removing all the parts so that i can know the difference each part makes.but really , which one would affect/improve car handling the most?should i even bother reverting to the stock/standard stuff?Of course this is all for me to learn and know more about my car.

One more thing.saw another guy driving a Pro3 with almost the same config as my car but he was ZOOMING around me!!!i think he laps me every 2 laps i make.and when i asked him , he said we were both using the same motor 27T (ESC dunno).i was really bummed.he said all i had to do was change my gearing to 6.8 ratio.is that true?the track is just a rectangle measuring 40-50 by 25 feet.
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Old 12-31-2002, 09:20 PM   #1367
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Watch that gearing thing. Alot of people say to gear up, but you can Fry some Motors if your not careful.

A Final of 6.8 is probably great for a P2K, but a Monster Stock needs something closer to 8.0, especially on a small tight track.

Final Drive Ratio is: Spur~Pinion x 2.25 = FDR
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Old 01-01-2003, 06:08 AM   #1368
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And I expect the other guy was zooming around you because he was driving better...

There's much more time to be gained from driving good lines than having a faster car in a straight line.

And you need to have a car that handles predictably.

Looking at your setup, I think you should remove the one-way and roll-bars straight away. Those are tuning things that don't make the car "handle better", just "handle different", and aren't right for every driver or every track.

I would learn to drive the Pro 3 with stock settings (except for the springs - keep your blue and pink springs, because the standard springs are way too soft for racing, use 30-40wt oil with those springs), then when you can actually get the car around the track cleanly, start thinking about how the car feels, whether it's understeering or oversteering, whether it's too slow on the straights, or doesn't accelerate out of the corners.

Then you start to make adjustments.

And remember that one person's setup won't work for everyone - other people who drive my cars think they are twitchy, I find other peoples cars lack steering, but we all seem to get around the track at the same speed.
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Old 01-01-2003, 06:12 AM   #1369
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Yes and No.he really was faster over the straights.Yes he was driving better,but we were only doing large circles.i think im gonna do what u ordered sir sosidge sir.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
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Old 01-01-2003, 09:26 AM   #1370
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Default Listen to Sosidge

lee82gx;

If you are new to R/C racing then I would also reccomend going to a Stock chassis set-up as Sosidge says.
The Car is probably one of the easiest cars to drive in the Stock Kit form. The chassis flex really plants the rearend to the ground.
Just use some stiffer springs and adjust everything from there. As you become a better driver and more familar with the car, you will want more steering through the corners and this is where the hop-ups come in handy.
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Old 01-01-2003, 09:21 PM   #1371
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Smooth and consistant driving is key. I know a few people that have every possible upgrade on the car and it doesn't help them at all. I know some people that don't have the best stuff in the world but they still can hang with some of the best people at the track. Just practicing on the track is the best thing you can do. You learn to pick better lines, when to put power down, when to brake, when to be aggressive, and when to not be aggressive.

Setting cars up takes practice and time too. You have to know what is best for your driving style. It takes time to learn the car too. Every car has it's different quirks and stuff. When you know what these are and how to fix them, you can make the car feels better. Just start with a good solid base setup that is drivible and tweak it from there. That's just my .02.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 01-01-2003, 10:05 PM   #1372
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Default Sushi Boy;

Just by the words you speak, I can tell that you are fast and wise. Couldn't have said it better myself.

lee82gx

Get to know your Car. Being able to feel the way the Car is handling and knowing what to change to bring it to the way YOU like it to handle is also tantamount to being faster. Make "ONE" change at a time and write down everything on a set-up sheet, EVERYTHING.

Hobby Shops closed today so I didn't get to buy my 3-4 degree Caster Block set. Probably won't race until next weekend and then it will be both Sat & Sun. Gotta lot of work to do on my Nitro stuff before next Wknd.

Happy racing
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Old 01-02-2003, 12:07 AM   #1373
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Write down....yes great idea.will be practising tomorrow.BTW i was told by LHS that next year we'll have 23T stock racing.japanese style.so does anyone have example for gearing that?cos i dont think i wanna get gearing for 27T but end up having to buy more stuff.luckily my present motor is just a cheap one.
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Old 01-02-2003, 04:58 AM   #1374
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Default 23t

over here, we gear it like a 27t stock motor. But in really depends on your tracks and motor temp.
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Old 01-02-2003, 09:50 AM   #1375
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Default 23T stock racing.japanese style

lee82gx;

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think 23T motors are the SEALED endbell type that come with the Tamiya cars. (SLOW)
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Old 01-02-2003, 11:23 AM   #1376
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Default 23t

yep the stockers that came with the tamiya kit are slow (except for the tao4-pr0 blue) came witha type T

but the tuned 23t motors from Tamiya(Type T,R,RR and S), HPI, Kai, Yokomo and other companies are mighty fast!

most of them are fast when new and deteriorate after a few packs since they are not rebuildable but Tamiya and other companies are releasing the motors in rebuildable form.

23t are the standard in JMRCA for their stock division, right?

over here we try having a race with 23t and 27t, its almost the same in power but tuned 23t is a lot faster and also depends on the driver.
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Old 01-02-2003, 04:29 PM   #1377
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I think you should be gearing 110 with a mid 30ish pinion. This is just a guess though, because I am thinkin it would be somewhere inbetween stock and 19turn. But I'm not realy sure what size track your are racing at. The stock gearing(35/116) will probably be a good start though, and you can see where you need to go from there.
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Old 01-02-2003, 06:37 PM   #1378
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Im getting an HPI 23RS stock motor.controlled race dammit.it is rebuildable tho.u guys mean rebuildable as in the com can be cut right?
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Old 01-02-2003, 07:33 PM   #1379
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Rebuildable as the end bell is attached with screws, rather than with the bent over tabs from the motor can onto the end bell, designed to keep the end bell premanently attached.
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Old 01-02-2003, 08:07 PM   #1380
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the Tamiya Type S and Type RR are rebuildable 23T motors
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