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Old 12-24-2002, 10:06 AM   #1336
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MERRY CHIRSTMAS TO YOU ALL! AND MAY YOU ALL WIN MANY RACES IN 2003!
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HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

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Old 12-24-2002, 04:01 PM   #1337
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Default Best thing about the Pro-3

What I love most about this car is that almost nobody runs them. The victory is so much sweeter when winning with this CRAP HPI.
When somebody comes uo and asks what kind of car I'm running and I show them my Pro-3 flexible flyer, They just kind of stand there with their mouths open. Duh............That beat my TC3?.

Meery Xmas to all.
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Old 12-25-2002, 02:55 AM   #1338
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Default to popsracer

My other ep cars are mr4tc and tc3. But after asembling the
pro3 and staring at it for hours i fel in luv with the design and
difference from the others. Here in our place i am the only one
with a pro 3 and thats the reason i wana use it. The track
is medium bite.The parts i plan to get are front oneways,
carbon reinforced tub chasis by hpi, aluminum mid shaft
support, alum front bulkhead, alum batery clamp and probaby
a top plate. I aam no engineer but by the luks of it
the pro3 seems to be one step above the rest in terms of
balance. Its the centered battery and the arms that really
make it differ from the rest. Am also planning to get
the carbon reinforced arms cause they seem to be too flexible.
With the parts i mentioned what advantage will the other
cars still have over the pro3? Is it true shaft drives are
now more efficient in terms of drivetrain performance?
Maybe i should just get a tbo1 evo3!
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Old 12-25-2002, 10:33 AM   #1339
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Default Pro-3 vs EVERYONE else

Jpn;

For Stock class racing I feel that the Pro-3 is very competitive with just a few mods. For Modified racing the Chassis flex becomes a problem. I just installed the HPI upper deck on mine and will see this Saturday how much difference it makes. I've been real happy with my Pro-3 so far and like I said it's more fun being the odd man out than just another cog in the machine.
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Old 12-25-2002, 12:23 PM   #1340
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Shaft drive cars are more efficent on low end, but once a belt drive car gets up to speed the belts strat to lift off the pulleys a bit and become more efficent than a shaft car.
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Old 12-25-2002, 06:15 PM   #1341
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I happen to have 2 stock chassis/lower decks in my hand.both A380 but i think one of them is the later/revision model.compared to the soft one , this has quite a lot of 'bones' in the center and i think it's quite stiff already.coupled with an upperdeck , the only flex i get is from my own fingers when i try to bend it.is that stiff enuff?
If not then there are too many to choose:carbon fibre molded tub(new from HPI) , hotbodies-style carbon fibre or graphite.
which one to choose?will a graphite be enuff?
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Old 12-26-2002, 07:45 AM   #1342
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Well i checked out with my LHS and turns out the A380 i have is silver lined....its actually a graphite chassis.no wonder so stiff.
I just got the Blue springs and my LHS says the Purple springs are for nitro's only so he recommended pink.
but i realised there are 2 springs for the same color.I got the 27mm ones....are they the ones u guys recommended?
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Old 12-26-2002, 10:17 AM   #1343
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Default Graphite vs Plasitc

lee82gx;

Sometimes it's hard to tell the difference between the Plastic and Graphite parts. HPI uses the same molds for the Graphite, so the part numbers are the same on the parts trees. What they do is highlight the part number in Silver to designate that it is Graphite. once you remove the part from the tree, it's hard to tell which is which.

Springs: The 27mm springs fit the best length wise. There are 2 blue spring sets in 27mm. #6847 Blue and #6851 Navy Blue, the Pinks are #6849.
Try the Pink springs in the front and the #6849 blue springs in the back. This is a good starting point for rubber tires on an asphalt parking lot track. Try to run the LEAST amount of Front Caster that you can. The car will have MUCH better High and Low speed steering this way.
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Old 12-27-2002, 01:12 AM   #1344
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Default Pinks or Blue 27mm Springs

These work rather well with my set up on my Hara...I use Blues all the ways around with 40w up fron and 45w in the rear ... U used to use the Grays with out sway bars but now I just use the blues with silver sway bars all the way around


-Dave
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Old 12-28-2002, 02:27 PM   #1345
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I used to use a Pro 3. I still have it, it's just on my desk as a display now (looks so cool). It stared out as a stock pro 3, then I slowly upgraded it so it looked almost exectly like hara's car. I got the name Sushi Boy at my track (atSUSHI hara) from being the only one to stick with the car so long. It handled awesome on asphalt. It had mounds of steering but the rear end still remain stuck. But like popsracer said, I beat my fair share of tc3s, and it was great to see thier faces. The oinly problom I had with mine was the drive train was a bit "chunky". It was heavy feeling even after all the mods. I put the low fricton belts on it and it felt a little better but I soon got a Losi XXX-S. I've never gotten to get it to handle as well but it will beat the pro 3 on the short shoots and on the straight. Here's my setup for my pro 3:

Front:
Oil: 40wt
spring: 27mm Pro linear Blue
piston:#4
Swaybar:none
Caster: 3 degrees
Camber: -1
Toe: 1 degree toe out
Diff: Ball type set a tad looser than the rear diff
Tire: Sorex 24R
insert: HPI red

Rear:
Oil:40wt
Spring: 27mm Pro Linear Green
Piston: #3
Swaybar: Silver
Camber: -1.5
Toe: 2 degree toe in
Tire:Sorex 20R
Insert: HPI Red

Motor: Team Orion Core 10x2
gearing: 30/116
Body: HPI stratus
Mods: Cross chassis, hb 2.4mm upper deck, carbon graphite stuff throught car, Aluminum rear brace, aluminum motor mount, aluminum center shaft mount, low friction belts, aluminum cvds, hpi woven graphite shock towers, and lots of titanium and aluminum screws and washers. And I had a hara paint job (It makes you go faster). Have fun guys

-Sushi Boy
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Old 12-28-2002, 07:57 PM   #1346
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Default Upper Deck Handling changes

Guys;

I raced the Pro-3 with the HPI Upper Deck for the first time today. Without any other changes the Rear of the Car was really loose, but then so was the Track compared to normal. I ended up changing the Shock Springs 2 steps softer at both ends and this helped dial in the Car to the Track. I only finished 4th in the "B" Main, but this was against guys that usually race in expert Stock so I feel pretty good about that.
In Nitro Sportsman, was TQ and finished 1st in the "A" by a full lap. Even did better than the guys in Expert.
Hopefully with a little more chassis tuning I can get the Pro-3 up on top too.
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Old 12-29-2002, 03:38 AM   #1347
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Sushi Boy:
Are those setups good/applicable to stock?Which leadsme to my 2nd question:what is a good 27T stock motor?guys here use trinity but i hear some 'monster' motor is better...locally , team orion , reedy motors are available.of this 3(or may there be others?),which should i choose?and what about ESC?i've been thinking of ordering thru the Net , but have been told that it's better to buy from LHS in case of burn out.Any opinions?
Thanks
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Old 12-29-2002, 05:51 AM   #1348
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The "monster" stock is the new one from trinity - supposed to be very high revving - but really there's not much to choose between the different stock motors, as their total power output is pretty similar.

If you can get Reedy (MVP) and Orion (Core) locally, stick with them - they're pretty similar performers, but tend to get a bit hot (there is a brush narrowing trick on Big Jim's site which should help stop this).

Buying an ESC locally does help when it comes to repairs, but if their prices are high or range is small, mail order.
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Old 12-29-2002, 12:48 PM   #1349
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Default To: Sushi Boy

How are you running your front kick-up 0 or 2 degs? Do the 3 & 4 deg Caster blocks change the camber link position (raise/lower) by mounting at the pivot?
I like my roll centers as they are now and would like to duplicate the position if I go to the 3 & 4 deg caster blocks.

Thanks,
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Old 12-29-2002, 01:52 PM   #1350
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if you mount the 3/4 degree blocks per instuctions with them the camber link is approx the same as the middle hole on the kit blocks, you can raise or lower it by using different spacers under the pivot ball
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