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Old 12-16-2002, 02:33 PM   #1321
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Quote:
Originally posted by JBrake
Does anyone happen to know the website for the company that paints Hara's bodies? Thanks
you can order from www.rcmodel.com.hk
they sell for45.00 plus shipping
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Old 12-16-2002, 04:04 PM   #1322
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lee 82 - just to say that popsracers setup would be a good starting point - personally i leave the car with the 2degree kick-up at the front, but the Pro 3 likes less caster (smaller degree blocks), and the Pink/Blue spring combination seems to work just about anywhere. Don't waste your time with the kit silver springs, they're far too soft for any kind of racing. Also, since you're inexperienced, remove the one-ways before you start racing.

A good guide for tyres is what the fast people at your track are already using.
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Old 12-16-2002, 05:44 PM   #1323
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Default What degree Caster blocks

Sosidge;

I wanted to run the least amount of Caster with what I had, so I turned the front block over to give me 6 degs total. One of these days I'm going to buy the 3-4 degree Caster blocks and I'll turn it back over to 2 deg kick-up. Right now It's 2 weeks before the next race so I've got some time to experiment. Going to try moving the electronics around to get the battery clearance with the HPI upper deck.

Last edited by popsracer; 12-16-2002 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 12-21-2002, 07:56 PM   #1324
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Default oh no!

i just ran my pro 3 earlier....everything was running fine until it started makin sum wierd noises and it slowed down..well when i brought it in the house and checked what the problem was..it seemed that the part that was holding the mip cvd together(part #72013b & #72013c) on one of the wheels was missing! i went outside to find it but i had no luck

well my question is...is there a way to fix this or find a replacement part by it self without buying the whole mip cvd kit
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Old 12-21-2002, 08:15 PM   #1325
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pLasTiK
i think u lost ur cvd pin is it?hasnt happened to me but it's common i hear.u could try to get a used one from ur LHS ,just go bug/pester/beg them .dont be shy.
well after u do manage to get one , use shrink wrap on it the prevent another incident.
good luck.
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Old 12-21-2002, 08:18 PM   #1326
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Default Parts FLYING everywhere!

pLasTik;

Are you talking about the little pin? If so you can buy a coupling kit to get the pin. $3-$5. Use a tiny bit of threadlock on the setscrews next time. NEVER ever had one come apart myself and I ALWAYS use threadlock on the setscrews.
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Old 12-23-2002, 04:38 PM   #1327
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Default PRO3 DIEHARD

I just got my Pro3. Instead of getting a TAO4 pro, TC3
or MR4-TC the HPI was my choice. Out of the I know
the PRO3 is the worst among them in terms of rigidity,
raceability etc, but to all you guys out there with experience
with the PRO3 what do I need to hop up in order to
make my pro3 look, feel and handle like a real racing
machine.
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Old 12-23-2002, 04:50 PM   #1328
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Default Re: PRO3 DIEHARD

Quote:
Originally posted by jpn
. . . but to all you guys out there with experience
with the PRO3 what do I need to hop up in order to
make my pro3 look, feel and handle like a real racing
machine.
About $300-400 worth of hop-ups...

THe list is endless....
__________________
HB WCE HARA EDITION CYCLONE: LRP Sphere TC, KO 2363 digital servo.
HB HARA EDITION PRO4: Gone to a new home..

SPEEDTECH|FUTABA|KO|ORION|SPEEDWORLD|HARA
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Old 12-23-2002, 05:43 PM   #1329
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Default Re: PRO3 DIEHARD

Quote:
Originally posted by jpn
I just got my Pro3. Instead of getting a TAO4 pro, TC3
or MR4-TC the HPI was my choice. Out of the I know
the PRO3 is the worst among them in terms of rigidity,
raceability etc, but to all you guys out there with experience
with the PRO3 what do I need to hop up in order to
make my pro3 look, feel and handle like a real racing
machine.
the only box stock parts i have are the shocks (except the purple collar), body posts, diff pulleys, gear shaft, front bulkhead mount, bumper, rod ends, and ball cups
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Old 12-23-2002, 06:28 PM   #1330
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Default Awww com'on

u guys.....
jpn welcome to our fold.the self pity is incredible here.sure u need some money to hop up ur car.just do it slowly , one at a time.i got a semi hopped up Pro3 for $107.i would say get the spur hub and then change EVERYTHING else.hehe.most probably get an upperdeck for rigidity,springs , etc.
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Old 12-23-2002, 07:46 PM   #1331
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Default Tell us more

jpn;

Please tell us a little more about your R/C driving experience. This will help in making recommendations as to Hop-Ups (if any) that you should buy for your Pro-3.
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Old 12-23-2002, 07:56 PM   #1332
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Default Making MY Pro-3 even Better

Guys;

For the last two races I used the Front One-Way diff in my car and love it. Really tightend the corners up under power. Since I didn't get to race this last weekend I had some time to re-organize the electronics so I could install the Upper Deck.
I turned the ESC so it would sit farther back on the chassis then put the receiver right next to it (obviuosly) I layed the switch down flat next to the receiver. I then installed Euro plus on all my packs and re-wired everything to fit. Came out pretty good and I didn't have to make saddle packs to do it.
Next comes all of the bearings. Learned a new (old) trick for freeing up the drivetrain.
I'll try and up some pics before the weekend.
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Old 12-23-2002, 08:56 PM   #1333
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If you get a top deck, aluminum spur gear holder, and the three molded graphite parts trees HPI makes, then you should have a farily good car. That should solve the chassis flex problems, and probably knock off a little weight. After that just try to get a few sets of springs. At that point the car is probably at 75% of its potential, then you can decide if you want to replace virtualy every single other part on the car to get the last 25% out of it, or just buy a XXX-S G+ or TC3 FT.
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Old 12-23-2002, 10:26 PM   #1334
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Default Merry Christmas

To my fellow Pro3 fanatics!!

Merry Christmas!!

Let us be reminded that it is in the giving that we recieve!

May the coming year bring more wins for the pro3 and more converts to our beloved chassis!!
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Old 12-23-2002, 11:40 PM   #1335
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anybody have the Jet upperdeck?
i have one and it doesnt come with screws or mounting instructions.on the back , its straightforward-2 screws one on the heatsink another on the shaft mount.in the front tho...
there are 5 holes so which should i choose?im mountind the ones on the bulkhead but the other 3 cannot bcos there are no spacers ..
is it enuff?its quite tight the chassis.

AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
May we remember that christmas is about the greatest give of all-the gift of unconditional love-For God so loved the world that he gave us his only son that whosoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life.John 3:16
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