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Old 01-13-2002, 03:10 AM   #91
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if you ran without the top plate you'd lose a lot of stiffness.
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Old 01-13-2002, 09:50 AM   #92
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yes but for my track i need some flex...!
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Old 01-13-2002, 10:06 AM   #93
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then what's the point of a full carbon lower deck? - the stock chassis gives you the flex, the HPI graphite one gives a little less.
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Old 01-13-2002, 11:18 AM   #94
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well u got a oint juts tought it will be cool to have it heehh!!
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Old 01-17-2002, 02:42 PM   #95
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ttt
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Old 01-19-2002, 01:44 PM   #96
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Figured this thread was starting to get low on the list so I have a few questions for other Pro3 guys out there...

I got the HotBodies Front and Rear Shock Tower and it really messed with my ride height, my car rides at like rally height now...could someone give me some positions and shock lengths in order to get my car back down low...

Also, I am having so rear-end loose problems any suggestions???

Later All!
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Old 01-19-2002, 02:22 PM   #97
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The Hotbodies shock towers are designed for a considerably shorter shock length - put o-rings on the shock shaft INSIDE the shock body to bring the length down enough to not have excessive downtravel - I think you want to take about 5mm off the shocks length, off the top of my head.

If you fit the hotbodies towers without shortening the shocks, you run a high risk of stripping the outdrives because the driveshafts are angled too far down.

If the back end is a bit loose, I'd normally suggest softer springs, however if you're still running the kit springs, they're about as soft as you'll go, so I'd suggest going a bit stiffer up front (and possibly a bit stiffer all round if you're on a grippy service - it'll make the car more consistent). Change the Damper oil to something a bit stiffer as well, if you change the springs.
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Old 01-19-2002, 03:24 PM   #98
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I don't have a Pro 3 or anything, but I may have figured out some of the Pro 3's chassis flex problems.
Soft plastics could have done a lot of it, but the stock chassis has no stregthening ribs in it at all! The XXX-s drive tunel looks like it would help alot for longtitudal flex, and the tub chassised TA04s (they have a top deck,but so did Hara's graphitee chassised all HPI car at the Reedy Invitational) have plenty of ribs molded into the tub. The Pro 3 only has the battery channel. Otherwise it's a flat chassis with walls (still stiffer, but it doesn't make up for the chassis amount of dead space to stress the other parts of the chassis).
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Old 01-21-2002, 09:36 AM   #99
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i ran my pro3 on carpet yesterday and did not brake a thing all day the only thing is that the foams rub the hub carriers and shock ends so i had to use some hex spacers that i had and put them in the rear. has ne1 else noticed that.
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Old 01-21-2002, 10:34 AM   #100
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spaz, i never ran foams /nor carpet so i wouldnt know....
its good to hear you havent broken a thing...neither have i after 3 months of hard racing in mod.....
did you race, how did you do?
l8er
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:00 AM   #101
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i seem to be having problems with my pro3, everytime i hit the boards, the car seems to be off trimmed, i ran good lap times with it but didnt manage to get good overall times because the car dint give me the consistent handling that i wanted. used to drive a FTTC3 and ive realized that the performance gap with the pro3 is noticeable. any tips?

about the bladder conversion is it better than the vcs type that i currently use? for all i know is that my pro3 sure leaks a hell lot of oil. all tips are welcome, if you find it too long for the thread you can email me at [email protected].
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:06 AM   #102
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hey koya dale.com
where do you race on the islands?
i go to st .thomas and st .john during the summer
from time to time and i havent found a track to run at
can you give me some info on the tracks and hobby stores

pro3racing from mainland
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:16 AM   #103
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i actually race in the philippines not in virgin islands
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:22 AM   #104
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spaz - with the pro3, you'll have fouling problems running any wheels wider than 24mm on the front, or 26mm on the back (unles you use spacers - but the 28mm foams will probably still rub up front on the shock bottoms)

Get the 24mm foams next time, or trim down the 28mm's using a tire truer and a sharp knife to cut the wheel (but be careful!)

Koya - I too find my car is inconsistent tracking in a straight line - often without even hitting the boards.

My solution is to run the front wheels with a degree or so of toe-in - this improves straight line running.

I also find that standard servo's centre a little less solidly than high speed/torque ones.

The bladder conversion is well worth doing - say goodbye to squeaky shocks! - however I'm surprised your shocks are leaking a lot of oil, mine don't leak at all - check they're all tightened properly, and that the o-rings in the bottom aren't damaged (they can become less efficient at sealing in the oil if they get scratched, for example by the shock shaft's screw thread)
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:22 AM   #105
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darn i tought i found a track. maybe oneday
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