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Old 07-22-2009, 04:29 PM   #2236
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I am also a proud owner of a pro 3!!!! Its awesome to see people still using this car. I love the fact that the battery is in the center, thats why i still use it, its easy to work on and to make adjustments!! I still use 6-cell batteries, and just upgraded to a brushless system (novak havok 21.5), and run the car in VTA class. I'm also interested in running lipo but have some concerns on the fitting of the batteries in the chassis. I have various hop-up parts on it, just picked up a car on ebay with alot of spare parts and alot of back-up hop-up parts, i can probably build 2 more chassis if needed, run one asphalt, and one carpet and just change the electronics. You can still get some parts for it on ebay, and rc online stores, it depends on what your looking for. I've just revived it last month and really had no problem getting diff parts, belts, axles, i just think its an awesome car, and the looks you get when they see its a pro3, when there mostly running TC 3's, 5's!!
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:40 AM   #2237
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If you get into researching the LiPo situation, it would really be a help if you'd post on here which LiPos will fit. There are at least several of us that could use that info. I just don't have acces to them at the moment for comparison, but can purchase them mail order when I find out what will work.
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:48 AM   #2238
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I have a Pro3 and Orion 2400 packs. I could probably force the pack and get it to fit, but I'd be afraid of damaging the pack. I'm using the purple aluminum part behind the battery, but I've considered going back to the plastic/graphite part to see if I could modify it. I know that the Orion 3600 won't fit without some major modifications.

The real issue is with length on all the batteries that I've tried. I'm wondering how split pack lipos might work - something like this (http://www.smc-racing.com/lv_sum4925sp.htm)
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Old 07-23-2009, 09:53 AM   #2239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
I have a Pro3 and Orion 2400 packs. I could probably force the pack and get it to fit, but I'd be afraid of damaging the pack. I'm using the purple aluminum part behind the battery, but I've considered going back to the plastic/graphite part to see if I could modify it. I know that the Orion 3600 won't fit without some major modifications.

The real issue is with length on all the batteries that I've tried. I'm wondering how split pack lipos might work - something like this (http://www.smc-racing.com/lv_sum4925sp.htm)

I'll happily snap a pic with me stick pack fitted if it'll help?

I have the plastic bit behind the battery fitted.
It was modified before i bought the car, but as i said before they've really taken too much material off as now the battery can touch the pulley if over to the right.
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Old 08-14-2009, 07:13 PM   #2240
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I have hara pro 3 how in the world do you get the battery in and out?
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:42 AM   #2241
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That was always a problem when they came out with the graphite upper decks. The solution to this problem was a big feature of the Team PRP upper deck shown in the picture in post #2227 on the previous page. The design allowed easy battery removal. The other options involved a careful layout of the electronics with battery replacement in mind. I was always able to come up with a layout configuration that would allow battery removal when using a side by side battery configuration where there was a little flex because of the side by side design (never tried with a stick pack). Somewhere in a past post I posted a solution that I came up with to replace the upper deck screws with studs and nuts to allow a quick removal of the upper deck to change batteries. You could change out the batteries in approximately a minute but involved removing the upper deck. I couldn't find the particular post with a quick look but I'm pretty sure it's on here somewhere if you're interested.
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:58 AM   #2242
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At the time we were running the early nihms i think 3000mah cells where a tight squeez at the time... The decks helped. Your dremel is your friend. Probably a hard lipo wont drop in but a soft might be easier.. totally encased in chassis should be safe enough for most clubs
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:20 PM   #2243
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Default LI-po help

anybody find a li-po that will fit this thing?
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:06 PM   #2244
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oops.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:48 AM   #2245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomaak View Post
anybody find a li-po that will fit this thing?
If height is a problem fitting in a lipo I would try the Orion 3200 packs and up to 3800 from Orion. Another low packs that I use in my E4 is the SMC 4100 24C lipo. It is another pack that is on the thin side.
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:55 PM   #2246
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thnx WYD. height really aint the problem, it's width and length. i need something in a 35C range that's not gonna be too much of a fitment issue.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:14 PM   #2247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomaak View Post
thnx WYD. height really aint the problem, it's width and length. i need something in a 35C range that's not gonna be too much of a fitment issue.
How many millimeters wide and long do you need to fit?Whats the maximum width and length you can have and still have the lipo fit?
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Old 09-12-2009, 11:41 PM   #2248
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hi. after trying different pac/cell combinations for nearly an hour....the owner of my LHS looked at a VX G3 series 4200 2s from hyperion and said..."that pac there will be perfect." so i went to the case...pulled it out the box and he was right!!! i accually had room to spare! so i found some 1/8th inch stainless plate at work and fashioned a li-po plate. now i'm ready to go
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:35 PM   #2249
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victory!!
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Old 10-25-2009, 12:24 PM   #2250
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the car has won every race it's been in but with the changing weather its getting hard to drive. i need more rear toe options as the stock 2 degree aint working no more.
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