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Old 07-21-2009, 08:47 AM   #2221
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We raced PRO3s since around 2001. Still have three in various stages of "trick" but I race an almost bone stock one which is the perfect car for me since my driving skill level is definitely questionable. That being said for the last race of the season when the team driver was home from college, after I raced the car in stock class we strapped in a brushed 10 turn I had in my pit box and she totally destroyed the competition in mod class after not wheeling a car for almost exactly a year.

I'm surprised that you're having trouble with a stick pack as the car was designed to use either stick packs or side by sides. Maybe the new ones are a tad longer. I assume that you know that when using a stick pack you turn the battery brace flat side down. Use the ridged side down when using side by sides. Also if you are using the plastic parts, there was a little blade on the left rear battery brace that needed to be cut off if the battery was a little too long.

Great drive well done.
Any pics/vids?
Be nice to see a Pro3 used in anger.

Yep turned the bat brace upside down.
The problem is the length, the Vapextech stick packs are a little longer than the other stick packs i have.

I think the they fit thicker end protection.

Still the run times fantastic with these 4600mAh's.
Not timed it, but at a guesstimate i'd say i had at least 15 mins.


What hop up's have you found made the biggest improvements?



Cheers
Mark
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:50 AM   #2222
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I think i can post pics now (10 posts right?)

So heres a few.

Here's the Vapextech's




And the Pro3








Here's a few with the scooby shell.







It came with this motor fitted (LRP GT1).
Can't find any details on or around the casing on specs though





Cheers
Mark
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:17 AM   #2223
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the damage was $75 for the two upper decks
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:25 PM   #2224
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Mark,
Couple of things that you might want to check after looking at your pictures.The battery should fit in the other way with the wires coming out towards the rear of the car. Check to see if that tang thing is cut off of the left rear battery support/lay shaft support it is shown as an addendum to the original instruction manual. If you don't have the manual check the HPI website as they used to have ones that you can download. If they don't have it let me know and I can get you copies. I'll try to make some additional posts later.
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:54 PM   #2225
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Has anyone figured out how to fit the Orion "stick pack" style lipo batteries into an HPI Pro3? The cases are just a bit too long, unless you could modify the motor mount.

I've considered using split pack lipos, but that would require buying new batteries.
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:59 PM   #2226
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Mark,
Couple of things that you might want to check after looking at your pictures.The battery should fit in the other way with the wires coming out towards the rear of the car. Check to see if that tang thing is cut off of the left rear battery support/lay shaft support it is shown as an addendum to the original instruction manual. If you don't have the manual check the HPI website as they used to have ones that you can download. If they don't have it let me know and I can get you copies. I'll try to make some additional posts later.

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated, keep em coming.

Yea i tried the battery the other way.
Problem is though the dean connector won't fit through the gap between the rear upper brace (A375 2) and the motor.

The tab looks to be cut off unfortunately.
I say unfortunately because now if the battery is over towards the right of the car it rubs on the spur gear pulley.

The main problem i think is simply that the Vapextech's are just too big.
Here take a look compared to me Tamiya stick pack.



Not much in it, but it's pretty tight in there as is.
What do you think?



Cheers
Mark
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:40 PM   #2227
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A couple of ooold oics of my Pro3:



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Old 07-21-2009, 06:29 PM   #2228
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what chassis is that ? i always wanted the hara chassis
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:09 PM   #2229
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That's the Penguin RC chassis and the Team PRP upper deck.
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:22 PM   #2230
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A couple of ooold oics of my Pro3:


That looks the absolute bollox.
What difference did it make to how the car drove though?

I really like the deep dish wheels at the rear as well.

Is there any gain from having wider wheels/tyres on the rear on a 4wd chassis though?


I'm really unsure what to do next.
Do i upgrade my Pro3 or simply put the money into a new car?

Upgrading stuff like the motor, Esc and batteries is fine, as these can be transferred to pretty much any elec RC car, bike, plane etc i buy in the future.

But if i start paying out for chassis upgrades and various hop up's the money is pretty much dead in that car.

After reading around it also seems that the flexable chassis the Pro3 was slated for on it's release is supposed to offer a advantage on the tarmac.
This is where my car will be spending 99% of it's time.

My main worry though, is if i buy a upgraded CF chassis and various hop up's then in 2 years time find the cars written off because i can't get a basic spare like a drive belt



Cheers
Mark
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:58 PM   #2231
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I'm surprised you can still get bits for it now. They weren't that well supported here in Australia when they came out, so mine never even saw the track... looks nice on the HPI shelf now.
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:07 AM   #2232
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Mark,
With respect to the battery the only thing I can offer without having one and trying things myself is to recommend that you take the packs apart and convert them to side by sides. Personally that is what I do on my car. I am currently using SMC SC-4600s and they fit great in a side by side configuration.

You have to decide for yourself what you want to do with your car and where you want to spend your money and for what reason. Parts availability is not good from what I've seen and will probably only get worse as I don't see HPI continuing to support the car, especially since only a few of the parts were interchangeable with other models. I think the PRO3 came out around 2000 - 2001 , so its been a while. I still enjoy racing mine and probably will continue to do so for the foreseeable future as I have an amply supply of parts and accessories from the days when we used to race it seriously and I can essentially race for free except for tires and batteries. I personally like the car and, for me, it is easy and a lot of fun to work on. As I stated above it can still be competitive in its original stock form on parking lot style tracks, at least on a club level, in the hands of a good driver. Accessories, which usually cost a lot of money with marginal percentage gain in performance for the average driver, can very quickly add up to the cost of a top of the line chassis.

Last edited by calvin; 07-22-2009 at 03:17 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:26 AM   #2233
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Mark,
With respect to the battery the only thing I can offer without having one and trying things myself is to recommend that you take the packs apart and convert them to side by sides. Personally that is what I do on my car. I am currently using SMC SC-4600s and they fit great in a side by side configuration.

You have to decide for yourself what you want to do with your car and where you want to spend your money and for what reason. Parts availability is not good from what I've seen and will probably only get worse as I don't see HPI continuing to support the car, especially since only a few of the parts were interchangeable with other models. I think the PRO3 came out around 2000 - 2001 , so its been a while. I still enjoy racing mine and probably will continue to do so for the foreseeable future as I have an amply supply of parts and accessories from the days when we used to race it seriously and I can essentially race for free except for tires and batteries. I personally like the car and, for me, it is easy and a lot of fun to work on. As I stated above it can still be competitive in its original stock form on parking lot style tracks, at least on a club level, in the hands of a good driver. Accessories, which usually cost a lot of money with marginal percentage gain in performance for the average driver, can very quickly add up to the cost of a top of the line chassis.
Only problem with that though is i can no longer use the same batteries in the M04M then.

When i fitted the deans connectors i cut some of the stick pack wrapping and plastic and re-fed the wires out the top.

I then heat-shrunk the wires, so it's bloody tight but they do fit.
I think i'll leave it like that for now and just make sure the wires don't chafe.


To be honest i'm a bit of a tinkerer at heart.
I can't think of anything i've owned that stayed stock for long.

I only buy older cars now as at least then i'm replacing older worn out stuff rather than new things.

So it's a bit difficult for me to see all these lovely carbon bits knocking around and not to buy em.
But as i say i'm not racing so i think i'm going to just enjoy the car as is.



Thanks again for the help and advice Calvin.


Cheers
Mark
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:43 AM   #2234
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Thanks.

The wheels/tires were only for show; they were hard to come by at the time. I'd be reluctant to run the Pro3 now, as it was never very well supported in my area, and parts support has all but dried up now. I love the car to death and think the batteries down the center was genuis, but...

Personally, for that reason alone I'd upgrade to a Pro4 which still has decent support. I picked up one that had only been run once on carpet on eBay for $94...
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:20 AM   #2235
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Mark,
I think that's great. Looks like you answered your own question. People do things for many different reasons. Personally I don't enjoy racing myself probably because I'm really bad at it, but I will spend hours working on the car, motor, etc. I race now only because my driver went off to college and I still enjoy messing with the cars and the PRO3 is somewhat expendable as compared to the XRays and Serpent which I've packed away until I learn to stay off the boards! If you need any help, give a shout.
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