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Old 02-06-2003, 04:34 AM   #1576
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Touringcardude - my carpet setup is here, should be an ok starting point/guide

Whacky - try 3 or 4 degree caster blocks as well, and the same insert front and rear. 2 seconds is a lot - are you sure there's not a bigger problem with your car?
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Old 02-06-2003, 06:23 AM   #1577
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Quote:
Originally posted by TFR
Dave, I heard some guy from Tamiya join HPI for the project Pro 4, is it true?
Belive the hype
more to come soon from what I hear..

-Dave
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Old 02-06-2003, 07:00 AM   #1578
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Thanks for the info, ps how about these upperlink locations??

To Popsracer.
No there are no rules for using a oneway, but on a track small tight technical track its not recommanded to have a oneway, tried driving a car that had one and i always seem to got backwards on the track before entering the corner.

To Sosidge
The car seems ok, nothing is binding, motor is new, same battery same speedo (Novak TC2) right gearmeshing, everything works so smooth on this car.
And Yes 2 seconds is alot .
At first i thought i was a bad driver but when racing the TC3 a smile appeared on my face when i saw that my laptimes improved by 2 sec. (not that is was a TC3, i hate them. To noisy, to fragile and they do look ugly.)

So i have proven that i can get a good laptime with my driving skills, it up to the right setup i guess.
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Old 02-06-2003, 08:25 AM   #1579
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Default My Pro3

Hi! HPI does not exist anymore here in Manila, and it is so hard to maintain a car with out parts support. And its expensive to order online everytime.

That's why I am parting with my beloved Pro3!

So I'm going states side on the 27th, anyone wants to get my Pro3? It's better than Hara Edition and with everything that you see in the Pic!

see in the other forum:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...242#post272242
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Old 02-06-2003, 09:30 AM   #1580
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Default Pro-3 handling traits

Whacky;

Thr Front One-Way works just fine as long as your always feeding in some power. The Pro-3 is much easier to drive with a F.O.W. than most other cars. I ALWAYS use mine even on slick tracks. I haven't tried the double O.W. set-up yet as I feel this would cause the car to swap ends off power too easily.
For the Rear Camber link, just use the Kit inner settings then move the outer to the top hole in the bearing carrier hub.

Here's the link to my current set-up: LINK

Recent additions include; Graphite suspension arm set F/R and raised rear camber link mount.
I try to make only one change at a time to accurately gauge the results. (I'm not counting the arms as a change).

Last edited by popsracer; 02-06-2003 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 02-06-2003, 10:11 AM   #1581
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Default Brand NEW Box Stock US version Pro-3

Guys;

If anyone is seriously interested, I could check the LHS and see if they have any Pro-3's left for $119 usd. These would be the USA version and perfect for the HPI Challenge races.

E-mail or PM if interested.
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Old 02-06-2003, 11:14 AM   #1582
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Yeah Surikam Will Join I hope?
LOL
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Old 02-07-2003, 02:08 AM   #1583
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I am looking to upgrade my chassis from the Graphite tub to either the HB or HPI woven graphite version.
Which one should I go for? which one has more room for the electrics? I have a Cyclone ESP and Ko Propo mini receiver.

I was also looking at the slop in the steering linkages and from the front hubs.
I have recently changed out all the ball cups for new HPI but there is still a lot of play. Is this a bad thing? Will I gain an advantage by removing this play?

The play in the hubs is from the play between axle shaft and inner race of the bearing. Are there bearings available with a tighter tollerence or, again, is this something that is OK.

Don't get me wrong, the car handles great. I am just wondering if it is worth adressing these areas or maybe the car benefits from this play in some way.

Thanks,
Yorkie
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Old 02-07-2003, 05:31 AM   #1584
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Hi Yorkie - I thought you'd got rid of the pro 3, or have gone and bought another one?

Anyway, a little play in the steering linkages is necessary for the car to run in a reliable straight line - but too much will affect the steering accuracy. I think the amount on my Pro 3 is perfectly satisfactory - and that's with a car that's near 2 years old.

I haven't really got a problem with play in my bearings up front either - my wheels still run nice and true. It could be worn bearings or worn CVD axles.
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Old 02-07-2003, 06:22 AM   #1585
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He Yorkie.
I to had alot of play in the front uprights, the bearings had alot of play in it. Even when i used new front uprights. Had this problem from the beginning.
And it seems that this bearing slop will wear out your bearings prematurely. i had to replace them every 6 months or so.

I have found a cheap cure to this it's called TESA-film.
Take the bearings out, put a pease of 5mm long and +/- 3mm wide on the top and the bottem of the ballbearing. when you press it back into the front upright it will sit snug again.

If the bearings still feel a litle bit loose then put some longer strips op tape to them +/-7 or 8mm. experiment with it.

PS i do not have this problem in the back.

Greatz Whacky.
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Old 02-07-2003, 06:46 AM   #1586
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Sosidge / Whaky,

Thanks for the reply.

It could be that the CVD axle is worn, as that is where the play is. The bearings are a snug fit in the hub.

Sosidge,
Still got the Pro3 with some selected hop ups. It seems to be the only chassis that suits my driving style. I have been trying an Xray Evo 2 for the last few weeks but I just can not get that chassis to corner consistently on the slippy surface. The Xray seems to call for a very smooth driving style which with my elephant touch is a nightmare. I'll carry on playing with it until my patience runs out. I was using the time to rebuild the Pro3.


Regards,
Yorkie
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Old 02-07-2003, 09:02 AM   #1587
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Yorkie.

Highly recommend you getting the HPI woven graphite chassis plate and upperdeck. Very stiff and zero flex.
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Old 02-07-2003, 09:44 AM   #1588
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Yorkie;

Quote:
play between axle shaft and inner race of the bearing
CRC and Kyosho both sell packages of thin shims in different I.D.'s that you can use to fix the endplay at the axles.

Quote:
slop in the steering linkages and from the front hubs
I've used Shock O-rings on the ball studs to remove the slop in the steering and shock ends. Put an O-ring on the stud then pop the ballcup back on, slop gone. I believe that sloppy linkages make the car HARDER to to keep on line. You want the car to go where YOU tell it to go, NOT where it wants to go. A Digital servo really helps too in this department. One of the best investments I've ever bought for my cars. All of my regularly raced Car/Trucks have them. (5 out of 7)

Whacky;

The Tesa-film sounds like a good Idea. I'll bet regular scotch tape might work too. Mine are a loose fit but won't fall out, Yet.
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Old 02-07-2003, 09:47 AM   #1589
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instead of o-rings change all the ballends to RPM's...alot stronger and will not stretch and develope slop.
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Old 02-07-2003, 11:54 AM   #1590
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He popsracer.

Yes the scotch tape will work to, any self adhesive thin tape will do.
Had the bearing problem since day 1, even with the new front uprights.
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