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Old 01-22-2003, 02:04 PM   #1516
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Quote:
Originally posted by newracer
no problems quote away!!!

I like the allen heads but also like the tapping screws. Ever tried to thread amachine screw into graphite composite? It is very hard.
put alittle of oil on the threads..it will be alot easier....
I never had any problems using machine screws on plastic.
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Old 01-22-2003, 02:24 PM   #1517
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never had machine screws stripout before unless the hole was enlogated or already been striped once. And these are Class "A" 18-8 Stainless steel - very hard to strip out if one is using pro tools (ie ofna, hudy, trinity, losi 2.0mm 2.5mm wrenches)
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:10 PM   #1518
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Old 01-23-2003, 01:28 PM   #1519
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Is the HPI electric rally car basically the same as a pro3 with different a-arms or is it a completely different car all together?

Reason I am asking is because I was thinking about converting my Pro3 into a rally car.
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:38 PM   #1520
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The electric rally cars (either Rally or Rally Sprint) are totally different to the Pro 3 - the original Rally is based on the original Sport, the Rally Sprint is based on the Sprint.

I wouldn't even bother trying to convert the pro 3 to rally spec - the short driveshafts and long wishbones mean you can't go very high on the ride height before you start causing outdrive breakage problems.
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Old 01-25-2003, 03:20 AM   #1521
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guys yesterday i was running my car on asphalt(medium bite) with one ways and 16X1T motor.on 6.6 gearing for tight track.
my butt was loose all the way...
crashed a LOT as well(i wont go into how much damage)....then i changed to 7.5 and well it sort of fixed everything but i lost a lot of top speed..
any cures?
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Old 01-25-2003, 10:04 AM   #1522
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try not gearing in big steps. Try 7.0 or run a hotter motor. Try this setup to:
http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm
hara gears a 8x2 - 9 and the track he was at was preaty big
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Old 01-25-2003, 10:05 AM   #1523
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Sorry link did not work, look at the site or the japannese site for his setup.
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Old 01-26-2003, 08:28 PM   #1524
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Default Help me out Guys

Pro-3 buddies;

Help me out here. I am fairly happy with the overall handling of my Pro-3 except for on Power, Mid-corner. The car will run wide and am not able to tighten the line up further, so I'm getting passed in the tighter corners. Wide High speed corners are no problem.

Here's my current set-up:

Front;

Shocks #6847 Green springs, 45wt oil, mounting A-2. Take-off 27CS premounted tires/wheels, 3 deg caster, 2 deg kick-up, -1 deg camber in position B-3. Zero front toe, Front one-way Diff, Front (black) swaybar. Ride height 4.5mm.

Rear;

Shocks #6844 Red springs, 40wt oil, mounting A-2. Take-off 27CS tires/wheels, -1 deg camber in position B-3, 2 deg toe-in (2-2-9)
Ride height 5.0mm

Chassis;

Stock HPI USA plastic chassis, HPI Graphite upper deck, HPI Graphite shock towers F & R. Monster Stock motor geared 87/25

Thanks,
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Old 01-26-2003, 08:35 PM   #1525
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you could limit front droop. on the pro3 you need to put an o ring on the shock shaft under the shock piston, so you will need to rebuild the shocks to do this. that should give you more on power steering.
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Old 01-26-2003, 09:16 PM   #1526
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Default you could limit front droop.

spaz456;

Thanks,
I should have posted my droop settings too. In the Front I'm running a spacer in the front shocks for about 1 mm total front droop. In the back about 3 mm droop.

I am thinking now that the flex in the stock plasitc suspension arms is INCREASING Caster during cornering and causing the push.
Anyone have some thoughts on this?
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Old 01-26-2003, 09:29 PM   #1527
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Quote:
Originally posted by lee82gx
guys yesterday i was running my car on asphalt(medium bite) with one ways and 16X1T motor.on 6.6 gearing for tight track.
my butt was loose all the way...
...then i changed to 7.5 and well it sort of fixed everything but i lost a lot of top speed..
any cures?
Lee;

The double one-ways are going to make the car MUCH harder to drive. Try switching back to the Stock kit pullies until you get used to the cars handling them make ONE change at a time. The 7.5 ratio is probably closer to what you SHOULD be running with that motor. Also the More power you put into any chassis, the more critical your set-up becomes.
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Old 01-26-2003, 10:24 PM   #1528
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will try pops.
but the thing is i dont have the stock pulleys...bought my car as is
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Old 01-27-2003, 05:46 AM   #1529
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Pops - mid-corner push seems to be the pro 3's bugbear, from what I've heard others mention, and I experience it myself from time to time. The 3 deg caster blocks helped a lot though, back in the day.

Here's a few things I'd consider...

Normally, for on-power problems, I mess with the rear first, so try...

1. Harder rear springing, with damping to suit.
2. A higher rear roll-centre (I don't know which mountings you mean in your setup, but if you run the camber link in the upper hole on the hub carrier, that raises it, or you can run the link in the more outboard lower hole on the shock tower for a slightly different effect)
3. 1 degree rear toe
4. A rear swaybar (I only try them after I've tried all the other adjustments)

At the front, you could try...

1. Flipping the arm mount to get 0 kickup (less overall caster)
2. Actually running more caster (can give more on-power steering, but only on sweeping corners in my experience)
3. Removing the swaybar
4. Other things like softer springing, a lower roll-centre, maybe heavier damping (to slow down weight transfer to the rear).

Some people have tried moving the weight forward on the car a bit as well, but there's not much scope for it (mount transponder in front bumper? move electronics forward? Lighter graphite mouldings at the rear, heavier standard ones at the front?Invector's optional chassis allows you to mount the servo further forward, which struck me as a good idea)

Your overall setup seems pretty balanced - but the springing is quite soft - if you're on a grippy track, you may get better results with stiffer springing all round (I like a stiff car generally, more consistent).

The harder arms will do no harm, as it gives you a more consistent base to work on the settings from.

That's my thoughts anyway.
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Old 01-27-2003, 09:24 AM   #1530
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Thumbs up Torque rods and Higher rear roll center

Pops'

I too had the same problem as you and 95% of Us Pro3 owners have.... but when I put torque rods up front and raised the rear roll center.. It cured about 90% of the mide corner push that I couldn't get rid of to save my life ...also made initial turn in more responsive too

-Hope this gives you one more idea'
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