razzor

With out your current setup info its hard to advise what you need to do.
You also have to take into account what type of track you run on.
Refer to the quick reference guide i posted above and it will help you for sure.
Might be an idea to download the Serpent setup manual to understand what all the settings etc... will do.


http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=4897

xraysteve

When you say less rear droop, means less downtravel for the damper right?
Reading on the droop gauge should be of bigger number? Or vice versa?


when i set my droop i just set it above ride height. this is how you do this. if your ride height is 5mm and you want 1 1/2 mm of droop you just add them together. (5mm+1 1/2mm= 6 1/2mm) so put your car on the ride height gauge at 6 1/2mm then unscrew the droop screw till the tires just touch. that gives you 1 1/2 mm droop. hope you can understand all my babbling.

RsageD

i have been reading this thru and i do have similar issues. I drive a TF5 RTR. Technical track. Asphalt. Tyres are sorex 32 with soft inserts. My FDR is 8.125 on a 5.5t motor. I have front sway at 1.3 and rear at 1.6.

What i dont understand is, when i loosen the screw for the diff (by removing the left tyre, i can access the screw), the rear slides upon exiting to the extend that it throw.

I hope i was clear.

hana166

iTrader: (2)

Assuming tyre prep is all good and rear bearings are free

Stand up rear shocks
Less rear uptravel
Raise front roll centre hingepins and/or Anti dive

Flatten camber links and/or more static camber
Lower rear roll centre hingepins

olly986

It would help also CLK if you told us what is your car.

Someone mention rear droop at 3/4mm I run regularly 5/6mm on my car, a TC6.

If you treat your tyres properly, 1/2 hour before racing, do you heat them also? are you racing on a purpose built track or parking lot?

Do you race like an IC driver (maybe you have raced IC before) one of my pal finds it hard to grasp the concept of racing electrics which is different from IC.
You get into a bend differently and have to be smoother on brakes/acceleration.

Maybe your tyres are too "soft"or too "hard" depending on cold/ warm/hot weather where you are racing.

Again so many different things can be the cause, I think most of them have being said so far, now we are waiting on your answers to help you further.

RsageD

i know its difficult but i am a newbie. how else can u show me? is there a link so i can read up?


Stand up rear shocks (I know this)
Less rear uptravel (Limitation to the shocks going in?)
Raise front roll centre hingepins and/or Anti dive (unsure)

Flatten camber links and/or more static camber (unsure, but im at 2deg, front & rear)
Lower rear roll centre hingepins (unsure)

Thanks man!

hana166

iTrader: (2)

Less rear uptravel - limitation to the shocks going out
Raise front roll centre - the pins that go through the wishbone near the chassis plate, raise them 0.5mm
2 deg camber all round is a good place to start
Lower rear roll centre - the pins that go through the wishbone, near the chassis plate, lower them 0.5mm

Be patient. It can, and usually does take a bit of time to understand your car

I think the best book out there to start with is XXXMain

But here are a couple of attachments that I reckon are quite useful

RsageD

You have been very helpfull hana166. Thanks for your time and i will check em out!

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

What I do if the rear end slides is add opposite lock and mash the throttle nothing like a good well controlled slide.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

I would help you out, but seeing how your not a real man..... hey its your signature not mine..