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Old 02-11-2009, 05:49 PM   #1036
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
That sounds about right, never measured it though
I wear size 10 shoes and from front to back of my shoe is 12 inches; so I just count off "feet". Lots of times to check while I am on the stand I will drive the car right up against the boards, and then check my circles. I make sure the car turns within half the lane (we have 8 foot lanes.) and then do it the other way to ensure symmetry. If your circles are good, I would consider tires, maladjustment, or a broken part(s) all as my next points of focus. What surface are you running on?
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:24 PM   #1037
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Sorry for not responding guys, I'm not on this thread much

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Originally Posted by Ferrarimk13 View Post
hey chris, what esc are you using, a novak i'm guessing but which model? Thanks.
Yes its a novak mongoose, another local racer has been running this with his 17.5 without any issues so I decided to try it out.

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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
Chris, thanks for posting the pics. How does the car feel with the t-bar conversion compared to the non- t- bar version?
Actually I have'nt ever tried the link chassis, to be honest I've just never been able to be as fast or consistent with any of my prior link cars as I have with t-bar. This is more about me and that I've almost allways run on asphalt than the link design; so for now the link chassis is still in the sealed bag
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:18 PM   #1038
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Originally Posted by Triton3d View Post
Hey guys, wats your stearing travel(EPA) on your 12R5?? i use a Futaba 9650 and if i go higher than 50% the car will spin easily...

Thanks
Mike
First of all I'd like to say that you must make sure that the dual rates are at maximum. Then make sure that you are in the correct holes for the 12R5. That should be the inner (lower) holes on the servo saver. that is very important . If you have the linkages in the upper holes you will most likely not be able to drive it . Once you dual rates are at max go to the end point adjustments. With the model elevated and the EPA set quite low, spin a wheel and dial in endpoint till the wheel rubs either the linkage (most likely) or the arm them back it off until it does not touch . the Numbers are irrelivant. Just make both sides so the wheels dont rub anything.
Your turning radius will be more determined by slip angle and tire coumpound aplication. Chances are the wheel is hitting something and stopping that wheel from spinning. Unless there is something drasticly wrong with your car . thats what you want .. Once on the track. adjust the dual rate out to the desired effect.. Turning radius can greatly be affected by throtle position and speed so... also remember that more camber increases high speed steering and less for more low speed. Please be sure the servo is centered and the linkages are equal length . Your 12 th cars are very finicky . Once set correct they handle like a dream. If wrong .. lets not go there . :P
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:28 PM   #1039
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I need some help. I am trying to figure out how to mont the Duo 17.5 in my 12r5 and the sensor wire keeps getting in the way. Does anybody have one of these motors mounted in their car, and if so could you please post pictures of it. I would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:11 AM   #1040
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
If you want your brushless motor centered you will also need the carbon fiber upper and lower from the 10R5.
OK Thanks !
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:40 PM   #1041
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I saw a pic earlier in this thread of a square rear brace standoff. I think it was from the Worlds and was thought to be Yokomo's redesign of the AE part. Has anyone seen any or know if/where they are available? I bent both of mine and upon inspection the aluminum looks to be unneccesarily thin; particularly where the tube narrows. I don't mind replacing the 3$ part, just thought I would ask in case a more durable part is available. Thanks
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Old 02-13-2009, 02:50 AM   #1042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I saw a pic earlier in this thread of a square rear brace standoff. I think it was from the Worlds and was thought to be Yokomo's redesign of the AE part. Has anyone seen any or know if/where they are available? I bent both of mine and upon inspection the aluminum looks to be unneccesarily thin; particularly where the tube narrows. I don't mind replacing the 3$ part, just thought I would ask in case a more durable part is available. Thanks
I dont know if the Yokomo part is available but here is one solution: Just use longer screws on the posts. I think I have 3x10mm screws on the bottom side on mine. That makes it a lot stronger a lot stronger, I havent bent them since I did that.
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Old 02-13-2009, 10:11 AM   #1043
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Hey Guys !? I've noticed something rather unusual while preping my car for the race tonight. I was tweaking the front end on my 10R5 and while adjusting the toe I saw what looked like a possible broken part. But upon further inspection it was all one piece. My right side has no caster what so ever. My car is built exactly as in the instructions and all my upper linkages are straight as straight can be. the left side of the car is ok. but not the right .... what a p.o.s.. Seems to me the TC3 had a similar problem. The factory just must know about this FLAW. I'm wondering why they wouldn't tell any one about it? Far as i can tell the lower arm is not geometricaly asymetrical. In other words , the location of the pivot ball is further back in the wheel base on the right. My 12R5 is the exact same way. I would appreciate it if everyone would check their cars out and let me know if you have a similar problem. Just take you wheels off and look at the car from directly over head. The top of the king pins do not line up. This flaw makes adjusting caster useless... all you can do is try to make them equal and hope the car works like that. Swapping the caster shims seems to fix the problem but thats besides the point . I bet if I looked at a team drivers car there would be custom shims in the upper arm to adjust it correctly. Bad PR man... Bad.
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Old 02-13-2009, 10:26 AM   #1044
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right on John mine are the same way in both cars
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Old 02-13-2009, 10:32 AM   #1045
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Xceed next weekend had new LW foam tire release !
i'm tested lightweight around 8-10g/set
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Old 02-13-2009, 03:36 PM   #1046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuhoL View Post
I dont know if the Yokomo part is available but here is one solution: Just use longer screws on the posts. I think I have 3x10mm screws on the bottom side on mine. That makes it a lot stronger a lot stronger, I havent bent them since I did that.
Thanks Juho. Good idea.
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Old 02-14-2009, 03:43 AM   #1047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
Hey Guys !? I've noticed something rather unusual while preping my car for the race tonight. I was tweaking the front end on my 10R5 and while adjusting the toe I saw what looked like a possible broken part. But upon further inspection it was all one piece. My right side has no caster what so ever. My car is built exactly as in the instructions and all my upper linkages are straight as straight can be. the left side of the car is ok. but not the right .... what a p.o.s.. Seems to me the TC3 had a similar problem. The factory just must know about this FLAW. I'm wondering why they wouldn't tell any one about it? Far as i can tell the lower arm is not geometricaly asymetrical. In other words , the location of the pivot ball is further back in the wheel base on the right. My 12R5 is the exact same way. I would appreciate it if everyone would check their cars out and let me know if you have a similar problem. Just take you wheels off and look at the car from directly over head. The top of the king pins do not line up. This flaw makes adjusting caster useless... all you can do is try to make them equal and hope the car works like that. Swapping the caster shims seems to fix the problem but thats besides the point . I bet if I looked at a team drivers car there would be custom shims in the upper arm to adjust it correctly. Bad PR man... Bad.
My car has no customs shims but the caster is equal side to side. Maybe the turnbuckles on the upper arms are not threaded in straight? That could cause the caster to change.
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Old 02-14-2009, 04:30 AM   #1048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
My right side has no caster what so ever. My car is built exactly as in the instructions and all my upper linkages are straight as straight can be. the left side of the car is ok. but not the right .... what a p.o.s..
John, I can think of two reasons for the problem you're seeing... either the turnbuckle in the upper arms is at a different angle on each side as juho suggested, or one of your lower arms is upside down. The lower arms on the r5 cars are NOT symmetrical... if you look at the lower balls and one is further forward or back than the other, you need to flip one of the arms. IF you DO need to flip a lower arm, remember to pop the ball out and flip it or the car will be tweaked.

I've built a few r5's now, and haven't run into this issue as long as both bottom arms are put on correctly and the upper arm turnbuckles are threaded into the upper arms at the same angle.
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:05 AM   #1049
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The other issue I noticed with uneven caster is the caster blocks, they are fairly soft plastic and if you overtighten the screws holding them they will bow or distort.
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Old 02-14-2009, 10:48 AM   #1050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuhoL View Post
My car has no customs shims but the caster is equal side to side. Maybe the turnbuckles on the upper arms are not threaded in straight? That could cause the caster to change.
NOT ! Im no rookie.... I, and several others in my area all have the same issue. And everyones upper link is straight ... Like I had stated in my last post. Associated needs to fix this. Joe Trandels new 10 and 12R5 Did not have this problem.... but like i said ... His NEW car, and its only a week old. Mine and the others have had it for a while . So what did they fix? The lower arm or the upper mount?
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