Mike the track would be sir and the motor would be 13.5

By motor I actually meant brand. At Timezone I tried from 72 to 76 with a Novak. Others ran as high as an 82 with a Trinity. Get that thing together for Wednesday.:spidey:

LOL check the motor specs for k(rpm)/v and torque ratings.
Less rpm.... bigger pinion
Far as i can tell the Novak has more killa watt hours at 195 the trinity only 165. Not so sure how accurate my info is but ... thats the internet 4 u

what is everyone using for oil in the top shock ?
im also finding that the inside rear tire will lift on a tight corner, should i strengthen the front springs?

depends on the available traction .. I 'd prolly stiffen the side oil, front and rear springs as well. thinkin sliding would be better than liftin a tire . maybe less dope up front or shorter soaking interval. helps to know if you glued the sidewalls too. but id try one at a time , maybe side oil first.

ok thank you, no glue on the sidewall, also rideheight was a little high, im going to lower it o a good height, then check it

Just a couple pics of my newly completed 12R5 and a few questions..

1. Caster: Does the 10* setting give more turn in than the 5* setting or vice-versa? I ask because I had bought a used CRC CK 3.2 a month ago and used 5* caster blocks and the car was just about perfect. Since the kit setting on the 12R5 is 10*, I had to ask.

2. Caster shims: Does the shim placement (1.80*, 3.25*, 6.15*) get subtracted from the caster number or added to it. For instance: If I'm running the 5* caster setting and the 3.25* shim set-up, do I now have 8.25* of total caster or 1.75* of total caster?

3. Does lowering the mounting position on the front of the center shock make the spring rate stiffer or softer?

OK... first thing is the radius of the upper arm is determining how much castor is taken out of the kingpin when it is loaed. For instance , what ever you start out with ( I'm running 6.25) that is the initial setting . When you go around the corner the suspension becomes under a loaded condition and the castor is then reduced . This gives the car more grip in the middle of the turn. If you were to change to the 5 degree setting for the upper arm, you would not have as much of this effect.
The spacers in the upper (thick and thin) are for setting the initial castor and that effects the amount of weight transfer to the rear tires. More negative castor means more weight transfer under wheel deflection. Less castor (more positive) means more steering thru-out the throw and more front grip over all.
I hope this is helps you ..:tire::tire::tire::tire:

1. Yes, the 10* gives more turn in. It also gives you more "reactive caster".
2. No it does not get subtracted. With the 5* caster setting, you can have more static caster than the 10* setting.
3. Lowering the mounting position will stiffer the spring rate, giving a bit more steering.

There is a balancing act between qestions 1 and 2. Start with 10* setting with the little shim in front, big shim in back. If the car is too twitchy, try moving both shims to the rear. If it's still too difficult to drive, try the 5* setting with shims split.

Thanks! I can't wait to get this thing on the track tomorrow morning. :)

Caster is adjusted with the shims. The dynamic caster block only alter the angle of the top hinge pin. Look at the car from the side. The upper arm is angled compared to the chassis when using 5 or 10 degree blocks.

The dynamic blocks change the caster under wheel bump (nose dive or rolling in corner) in this case the higher the block degree the more the caster is reduced. The dynamic blocks reduce caster when the suspension is compressed.

lower front shock mounting = softer

Before you do, take that wing off or lower it a lot :D

Yeah, I just stuck it on there to see what it would look like. Since I'm running a stock motor on a smallish track, I know I won't need it. Plus the fact that I screwed up and cut the slots on the wing way too far up. Oh well..

Problem with left wheel hub
 

Yesterday, i wanted to build my 2nd. 12R5.

I had a problem with my left hub (#4567)
It was not possible to tighten the 2/56 screw.
I could turn and turn, but it didn't clamp.
I don't know the expression in English, but i hope you guys know what i mean.
Has anyone else had this problem?

I got the car from Tower, should i try to get a hub from there or should i
refer directly to AE?

Thanks...

One or more of the associated guys are usually on here.
It is either stripped out or judt didnt get machined properly and the hole is clearenced drilled through out. They are pretty good about that sort of thing and will most likely take care of it. Problem is ... its a holiday weekend . and they are in Californico.:lol: