Associated RC12R5
#3571
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
I am running Black/Yellows in 17.5 blinky, CRCs @ 41.5mm front/42.5mm rear. Our carpet isn't the cleanest as it shares a facility with an indoor offroad track, and I have found that my car is far more consistent over the course of an 8min when I sauce the entire fronts.
On normal club race weekends, we usually only have 4 heats of carpet racers. 17.5 sedan, 17.5 12th, VTA, and F1. Typically(ie: prior to announcement that the Carpet Nats were being held @ our track), we would see around 5-6 entries per class. So there usually isn't that many cars on the carpet to act as zambonis and lay down a solid clean groove.
The exception to the saucing thing is during bigger events when there are many heats back to back and lots of cars in each heat.
Anyway, regarding the front end setup. I have tried using the 1mm shim on the lower arm by itself and in conjunction with the 2mm upper arm shim. What I found was that the 1mm lower arm shim widened the front too much for my liking. I am running CRC tires, so with the 1mm shim and 1 kingpin shim on the axle, my front width came in just a hair under 170mm.
The car just worked better for me with the narrower front. The 2mm upper arm shim really calmed the car down for me, and made it easier to drive consistently.
However...... All this testing was done with .020 front springs. It is quite possible that wider front track width may be suitable when using the softer front springs.
We have a fairly big race this weekend where we should get a good number of entries and lay down a pretty nice groove, so it will be a good situation to continue testing things that might work @ the Carpet Nats but not on a regular club race day.
#3572
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Another question for the guys running the Speed Merchant damper tube conversion...
Is everyone running the linear side springs? I wanted to try the standard progressive springs, but obviously they dont fit on the linear spring retainers supplied by Speed Merchant. And the tweak set screws that SM uses are a much larger diameter than the M3s Associated uses, so the AE spring retainers don't fit on the SM tweak screws. And the holes in the SM tweak brace are far too large to accomodate a smaller M3 set screw.
Is their a progressive spring retainer made for the larger imperial tweak screws that SM uses?
Or are we stuck using linear sides?
Is everyone running the linear side springs? I wanted to try the standard progressive springs, but obviously they dont fit on the linear spring retainers supplied by Speed Merchant. And the tweak set screws that SM uses are a much larger diameter than the M3s Associated uses, so the AE spring retainers don't fit on the SM tweak screws. And the holes in the SM tweak brace are far too large to accomodate a smaller M3 set screw.
Is their a progressive spring retainer made for the larger imperial tweak screws that SM uses?
Or are we stuck using linear sides?
#3573
James
2 things i noticed or suggest...
i think i remeber u saying ur track sprays the track with stuff? amd u use paragon compound right? which in my eyes is prob the best and strongest but alot of tracks and big races use other non odor kind..
You said u dope the whole front tire? but bye the looks of ur setup ur trying to calm down the twichyness of ur car by making it wider/and the lenthing of the upperarms ect...
I would go to no more then 1/2 tire dope so u can get a consistant feel.. and change like mike ivy said shorten the upper, going to the 18.. will give u the intal steering then feel like it stops... also pay attention with them cause they will wear fast and compress quicker.. ..
Are u gluing ur side walls?
Also from my own experince and i see alot of others adjust and adjust and adjust there car cause its not doing something and the fix is in there RADIO alot of racer over look it..
Also.. u can try a bigger split in tire size front to rear..
REMEMBER THERES ALWAYS THAT BASE SETUP AND U WORK FROM THERE TO UR OWN PERSONAL LIKES AND SETTINGS
2 things i noticed or suggest...
i think i remeber u saying ur track sprays the track with stuff? amd u use paragon compound right? which in my eyes is prob the best and strongest but alot of tracks and big races use other non odor kind..
You said u dope the whole front tire? but bye the looks of ur setup ur trying to calm down the twichyness of ur car by making it wider/and the lenthing of the upperarms ect...
I would go to no more then 1/2 tire dope so u can get a consistant feel.. and change like mike ivy said shorten the upper, going to the 18.. will give u the intal steering then feel like it stops... also pay attention with them cause they will wear fast and compress quicker.. ..
Are u gluing ur side walls?
Also from my own experince and i see alot of others adjust and adjust and adjust there car cause its not doing something and the fix is in there RADIO alot of racer over look it..
Also.. u can try a bigger split in tire size front to rear..
REMEMBER THERES ALWAYS THAT BASE SETUP AND U WORK FROM THERE TO UR OWN PERSONAL LIKES AND SETTINGS
Mike,
I am running Black/Yellows in 17.5 blinky, CRCs @ 41.5mm front/42.5mm rear. Our carpet isn't the cleanest as it shares a facility with an indoor offroad track, and I have found that my car is far more consistent over the course of an 8min when I sauce the entire fronts.
On normal club race weekends, we usually only have 4 heats of carpet racers. 17.5 sedan, 17.5 12th, VTA, and F1. Typically(ie: prior to announcement that the Carpet Nats were being held @ our track), we would see around 5-6 entries per class. So there usually isn't that many cars on the carpet to act as zambonis and lay down a solid clean groove.
The exception to the saucing thing is during bigger events when there are many heats back to back and lots of cars in each heat.
Anyway, regarding the front end setup. I have tried using the 1mm shim on the lower arm by itself and in conjunction with the 2mm upper arm shim. What I found was that the 1mm lower arm shim widened the front too much for my liking. I am running CRC tires, so with the 1mm shim and 1 kingpin shim on the axle, my front width came in just a hair under 170mm.
The car just worked better for me with the narrower front. The 2mm upper arm shim really calmed the car down for me, and made it easier to drive consistently.
However...... All this testing was done with .020 front springs. It is quite possible that wider front track width may be suitable when using the softer front springs.
We have a fairly big race this weekend where we should get a good number of entries and lay down a pretty nice groove, so it will be a good situation to continue testing things that might work @ the Carpet Nats but not on a regular club race day.
I am running Black/Yellows in 17.5 blinky, CRCs @ 41.5mm front/42.5mm rear. Our carpet isn't the cleanest as it shares a facility with an indoor offroad track, and I have found that my car is far more consistent over the course of an 8min when I sauce the entire fronts.
On normal club race weekends, we usually only have 4 heats of carpet racers. 17.5 sedan, 17.5 12th, VTA, and F1. Typically(ie: prior to announcement that the Carpet Nats were being held @ our track), we would see around 5-6 entries per class. So there usually isn't that many cars on the carpet to act as zambonis and lay down a solid clean groove.
The exception to the saucing thing is during bigger events when there are many heats back to back and lots of cars in each heat.
Anyway, regarding the front end setup. I have tried using the 1mm shim on the lower arm by itself and in conjunction with the 2mm upper arm shim. What I found was that the 1mm lower arm shim widened the front too much for my liking. I am running CRC tires, so with the 1mm shim and 1 kingpin shim on the axle, my front width came in just a hair under 170mm.
The car just worked better for me with the narrower front. The 2mm upper arm shim really calmed the car down for me, and made it easier to drive consistently.
However...... All this testing was done with .020 front springs. It is quite possible that wider front track width may be suitable when using the softer front springs.
We have a fairly big race this weekend where we should get a good number of entries and lay down a pretty nice groove, so it will be a good situation to continue testing things that might work @ the Carpet Nats but not on a regular club race day.
#3574
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Another question for the guys running the Speed Merchant damper tube conversion...
Is everyone running the linear side springs? I wanted to try the standard progressive springs, but obviously they dont fit on the linear spring retainers supplied by Speed Merchant. And the tweak set screws that SM uses are a much larger diameter than the M3s Associated uses, so the AE spring retainers don't fit on the SM tweak screws. And the holes in the SM tweak brace are far too large to accomodate a smaller M3 set screw.
Is their a progressive spring retainer made for the larger imperial tweak screws that SM uses?
Or are we stuck using linear sides?
Is everyone running the linear side springs? I wanted to try the standard progressive springs, but obviously they dont fit on the linear spring retainers supplied by Speed Merchant. And the tweak set screws that SM uses are a much larger diameter than the M3s Associated uses, so the AE spring retainers don't fit on the SM tweak screws. And the holes in the SM tweak brace are far too large to accomodate a smaller M3 set screw.
Is their a progressive spring retainer made for the larger imperial tweak screws that SM uses?
Or are we stuck using linear sides?
#3577
New setup posted
#3578
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Hey rick there is nothing wrong with the standard springs but if guys want to run the tubes then only the linears fit with the conversion. I think the tubes make a difference more then the springs because they are easier to get consistent for the average racer over the side shock. I prefer side shock when i can build it perfect but sometimes i cant get orings or rebuild kits and thats where greasing tubes is alot easier.
#3580
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Hey rick there is nothing wrong with the standard springs but if guys want to run the tubes then only the linears fit with the conversion. I think the tubes make a difference more then the springs because they are easier to get consistent for the average racer over the side shock. I prefer side shock when i can build it perfect but sometimes i cant get orings or rebuild kits and thats where greasing tubes is alot easier.
#3581
Another question for the guys running the Speed Merchant damper tube conversion...
Is everyone running the linear side springs? I wanted to try the standard progressive springs, but obviously they dont fit on the linear spring retainers supplied by Speed Merchant. And the tweak set screws that SM uses are a much larger diameter than the M3s Associated uses, so the AE spring retainers don't fit on the SM tweak screws. And the holes in the SM tweak brace are far too large to accomodate a smaller M3 set screw.
Is their a progressive spring retainer made for the larger imperial tweak screws that SM uses?
Or are we stuck using linear sides?
Is everyone running the linear side springs? I wanted to try the standard progressive springs, but obviously they dont fit on the linear spring retainers supplied by Speed Merchant. And the tweak set screws that SM uses are a much larger diameter than the M3s Associated uses, so the AE spring retainers don't fit on the SM tweak screws. And the holes in the SM tweak brace are far too large to accomodate a smaller M3 set screw.
Is their a progressive spring retainer made for the larger imperial tweak screws that SM uses?
Or are we stuck using linear sides?
#3583
#3584
Tech Master
Robert, I haven't spoken to OJ, but knowing how we used to do it when I was running 12th full time it was 0.6mm off the pivot ball, and 0.6mm off the centre plastic housing - plus some more off the housing to check that it all still moves properly.
#3585
Tech Fanatic
Yes, that is how it is done. Machine 0.6mm off the underside of each ball (correctly, you should do the same to all four balls on the side links too, but you can get away with not doing that) and then machine 0.6mm off the middle and ends of the centre link. The centre link attachment points on the chassis must be level with the bottom of the centre ball.
You will also have to take some material off the bottom plate to allow the same amount of movement side to side. HTH
You will also have to take some material off the bottom plate to allow the same amount of movement side to side. HTH