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-   -   Associated RC12R5 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/206114-associated-rc12r5.html)

M.Abramowicz 09-29-2010 03:34 AM

Robert :)

SEXI CAR!!!

What body you are going to use? AMR-12?

Btw, try move wires to shock, made them center, not on left side.

But maybe it is OK.

Hm, btw, you put nice looking tape on speedo, don't you scary about temp and overheat speedo?

:)

Robert_K 09-29-2010 04:29 AM


Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz (Post 8001276)
Robert :)

SEXI CAR!!!

What body you are going to use? AMR-12?

Btw, try move wires to shock, made them center, not on left side.

But maybe it is OK.

Hm, btw, you put nice looking tape on speedo, don't you scary about temp and overheat speedo?

:)

Thanks Michal!

I'll be using different bodies:
Protoform AMR
Black Art Bomb "R" (BA004)
Black Art Audi R10 (BA003)

Not sure about the speedo, Think it will be okay with 3,7V. But still have to test is...

Regards Robert

AreCee 09-29-2010 07:23 AM

The tape on the speedo case will not hurt it. The Tekin gets almost all of its cooling from the solder posts (their version of a heat sink) so you do not want to cover those with shrink wrap.

rc_square24 09-29-2010 11:14 AM

How do you mount an Airtronics//Sanwa 94819 servo onto the R5.1? the holes don't match is there a mount i can get for it? I dont want to use glue.

The holes on the chassis are wider apart.

andrew-01 09-29-2010 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by rc_square24 (Post 8002691)
How do you mount an Airtronics//Sanwa 94819 servo onto the R5.1? the holes don't match is there a mount i can get for it? I dont want to use glue.

The holes on the chassis are wider apart.

I have mine butted up all the way against the passenger side servo mounts. The 'driver side' clamps down to the outside of the servo tabs. Its on there and solidly mounted with washers to distribute the load. It also helped center the servo saver in between both suspension blocks and arms.

darnold 09-29-2010 06:03 PM


Originally Posted by andrewdoherty (Post 8000613)
Lets get off this super wide page...

I built a little on the new chassis tonight. The first thing that hit me was how perfect the countersinks are. I hate when the screws stick out from the chassis bottom or get swallowed up by over zealous (read weakened) countersinks. The on-point chassis countersinks sit the screws just a fraction below the chassis surface.

Rear pod and links lined up perfect along with all the other screw holes.

Awesome Andre, I'm waiting to pick mine up on Saturday. My plan is to run my car a 3-4 runs as is and then switch the chassis over. Do you know if On-Point makes a center brace for the front suspension since the holes are 2mm further out? I'm wondering if we can just use a CRC front brace now that I think about it?

Either way I'm looking forward to testing this baby out.:sneaky:

andrewdoherty 09-29-2010 07:58 PM

I have been running 2 mm shims between the upper arm mounts and the front bulkheads lately ala Naoto's 2008 worlds car. It gives a little less camber gain, softens the spring rate a touch, and seemed to calm the front end down some for me. So the increase in lower arm width actually allows me to use the stock brace, where as before I wasn't able to. As for the CRC brace I couldn't tell you. I only have the wide CF brace, not the red pins. To be honest, it wouldn't be too difficult to drill a couple 2 mm holes in a scrap piece of CF to fab a brace, if you're into that kinda thing. Good to hear from you!

I have a couple ideas for the R5 I am going to try this weekend and the next week. They might be a little goofy, but I run on such low low bite carpet that it seems desperate measures are needed. If any of it "pans" out I will post.

motomike122 09-29-2010 08:14 PM


Originally Posted by Robert_K (Post 8001041)
So, I've been working on this car for a few day's now, but I'm starting to like it. The Sensor Cable en TQ-Booster still need to be switched for a "better" solution, but I can start now :D.

http://94.100.122.119/1115550001-111...83_6_c6LP.jpeg

http://94.100.122.114/1115550001-111...92_6_xlFc.jpeg

I tried something new with the carbon:
http://94.100.120.168/1115550001-111...02_6_HXY9.jpeg

http://94.100.120.182/1115550001-111...60_6_jZJt.jpeg

Regards

Robert

WOW!!! It is a thing of beauty... What did you use on the chassis to make it blue? Just paint or a special kind? Thanks, Mike

Robert_K 09-30-2010 12:31 AM


Originally Posted by motomike122 (Post 8004701)
WOW!!! It is a thing of beauty... What did you use on the chassis to make it blue? Just paint or a special kind? Thanks, Mike

FasKolor Faskyblue

Regards Robert

darrenoakley 09-30-2010 01:18 AM

Widening front end with lower arm spacers
 
Just a bit confused as to why so many set ups show adding shims to the front bulk heads and what would be the benefit in doing this. My new 12r5.1 had them when I got it but cant really tell the difference from my 12r5 that doesn't.
If someone could explain, this would really help as I dont like changing bits unless I understand what they are doing.

Cheers Darren ;)

M.Abramowicz 09-30-2010 01:58 AM

Heh :)

Nice blue job, but Robert how long you do it?

If it made me faster, I will do it at all my pancars :) ;) ;) :)

JOKE!!!

Damn, I wait for tc6 :) but I will do it in red :) or porn pink :P

m,

M.Abramowicz 09-30-2010 02:02 AM


Originally Posted by darrenoakley (Post 8005429)
Just a bit confused as to why so many set ups show adding shims to the front bulk heads and what would be the benefit in doing this. My new 12r5.1 had them when I got it but cant really tell the difference from my 12r5 that doesn't.
If someone could explain, this would really help as I dont like changing bits unless I understand what they are doing.

Cheers Darren ;)

About front end, adding shims -> changing ride height.
If you cut tires to ~42mm for front (I love this diameter), then check RH and
add some washers to set 3.2-3.5 at front.

About rear end in 12R5 and 12R5.1, there is shorter wheel clamp for right tire (diff side) so rear pod is at 12R5.1 better balanced with BL engine.

About 5 and 5.1, it is big difference, my car 5.1 set by caliper with factory settings, balanced L/R drive stright when accelerate, 5 from my friend a little push but I don't remember which side. You know, little left or right but
not stright. And 5.1 do it stright :)

Regards!
m.

SlowerOne 09-30-2010 01:20 PM

@rc_square 24 - IME, it's the diff rings. I've had this happen on two cars, and just by changing the diff rings for IRS replacement items, the problem went away. The diff rings that came with the car are not flat, and so you get the tight/smooth action you describe. I use the IRS lightweight ones now, they are very flat and smooth! HTH :)

darnold 09-30-2010 06:44 PM


Originally Posted by andrewdoherty (Post 8004640)
I have been running 2 mm shims between the upper arm mounts and the front bulkheads lately ala Naoto's 2008 worlds car. It gives a little less camber gain, softens the spring rate a touch, and seemed to calm the front end down some for me. So the increase in lower arm width actually allows me to use the stock brace, where as before I wasn't able to. As for the CRC brace I couldn't tell you. I only have the wide CF brace, not the red pins. To be honest, it wouldn't be too difficult to drill a couple 2 mm holes in a scrap piece of CF to fab a brace, if you're into that kinda thing. Good to hear from you!

I have a couple ideas for the R5 I am going to try this weekend and the next week. They might be a little goofy, but I run on such low low bite carpet that it seems desperate measures are needed. If any of it "pans" out I will post.

Good to hear from you also, how have things been going? Thanks for the info on the chassis plate.

motomike122 09-30-2010 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by Robert_K (Post 8005375)
FasKolor Faskyblue

Regards Robert

Thank you...Mike


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