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Old 05-13-2008, 09:32 PM   #646
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Were thinking of changing our Lipo case so the wires would come out on top of the casing. What I would like to know is in what corner should we put the wires ? When looking at a sedan would you rather have the wires on the outside front of the pack or the outside rear ?
if you could split the difference between center and the outside edge it would help. it really does not matter which end you put it on because, depending on the car (right, left, or center battery mount), it will end up either in the front or the rear outside anyway.

what really gets in my way is the balancing plug, wish you could use a system similar to the orions.
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:05 PM   #647
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any idea on when these newer packs would be out? and will anyone of your dealers ship internationally to australia as it seems that they are classed as flammable and tower wont ship them etc...

id love the idea of having packs without wires... this would allow me to cleanly connect up the packs in series and have no excess "baggage" so to speak of....

what diameter would the plugs be? thats the only issue when taking serious amps out of these packs? would a 5mm plug be too big? will the current plugs be able to take what the pack says it will provide (120A+)

and is charging these straight after the run while still warm in a very warm environment(30-40 degrees C) ba dfor them, ive read thorugh the thread, and id only charge at 1c anyway, but will it hurt the life of it? (seems to help in the short term, just considering my small budget, id like to get longer life with possibly slightly less performance (i dont race hard, just have fun!)
thanks
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Old 05-14-2008, 12:03 AM   #648
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Thanks to everyone for the input and just as I thought it's impossible to come out with a position for the wires that will suit or please everyone.

Our packs are made using the best materials available which is the reason why they have high average voltage and low IR. Since these packs are designed with racing in mind it makes no sense for us to make the connection inboard as this requires the use of a PC board which will increase IR. By using wires the racers have the option soldering directly to the wires to get maximum performance out of the packs. Were considering going to 10 gauge wire to improve the connectivity.
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Old 05-14-2008, 12:12 AM   #649
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Danny,

The 5000 packs seem to be getting hard to find. Will they be making it to shops again soon? Also, what balancing tap do you use?
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Old 05-14-2008, 12:42 AM   #650
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The packs are exclusively made for us and so our supplier will only build what we order. Our initial shipment soldout much faster than we had expected so we had to order more and they take 2 months to get done. We have a new shipment of 5000s coming in next week and 4000s the following week. Our supplier also told us he would be ordering more material to try and cut down on the time it takes to get orders done.

The balance connector is the same as Align , E-Flite and ElectriFly. It's used by other companies as well so it's pretty common.

The Deans style connectors used on our packs don't fit as tight which seems to create extra resistance which makes for inconsistent cycle numbers. There seems to be fluctuations from connector to connector so starting with this newest batch we will take the packs cycle info straight from the wires which means the numbers will look better as we will bypass the connectors. This is done to try and get more consistency out of the cycling.

For those using the original connector on our pack I would reccomend replacing it with a new Deans connector. I also reccomend you change the male Deans connector once in awhile to keep everything tight to keep resistance as low as possible.
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Old 05-14-2008, 04:13 AM   #651
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Tony - What type of heating pad are you using?

Walmart brand, just use some rubber bands and wrap it up like a burrito.
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Old 05-14-2008, 06:21 AM   #652
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Tony - What type of heating pad are you using?
i know i am not Tony, but.....i put my heating pad in a LIPO SAC, kills 2 birds with one stone. i did find i had to use a lower setting on the heating pad to get the desired temp because it was in the "SAC".
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:34 AM   #653
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Hey, just wanted to post a thanks. Ran my 5000 last night 5 times with a simple re-peak between runs. Pack was outstanding!

and again, anyone using an RDX, these packs fit in with no mods AND you can put the wires facing forward/inside and lead them through the top deck for a wicked clean look!

Thanks Again!
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:51 AM   #654
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By using wires the racers have the option soldering directly to the wires to get maximum performance out of the packs. Were considering going to 10 gauge wire to improve the connectivity.


I'm wondering how this would be possible ? (the soldering part)
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:57 AM   #655
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I'm wondering how this would be possible ? (the soldering part)
A thing commonly known as a soldering iron.

sorry, couldn't resist...
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:03 AM   #656
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You solder your speed control wires directly to the wires of the pack.
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SMC 28C 4000/5000 Hardcase Lipo part 2-img00067.jpg  
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:34 AM   #657
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You solder your speed control wires directly to the wires of the pack.
i would recommend this type of connection to be used by only ADVANCED racers. for "regular racing" or "backyard" running please use connectors.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:35 AM   #658
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You solder your speed control wires directly to the wires of the pack.
Holy crap!
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Old 05-14-2008, 12:44 PM   #659
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Holy crap!

What he said !!!!!!
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Old 05-14-2008, 01:30 PM   #660
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Direct soldering is really easy. Just make sure you cut one wire shorter than the other so they don't cross.
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